Why Elko, Nevada, the Unofficial Cowboy Capital, Should Be Your Next Destination
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In the remote northeastern corner of Nevada, far from the glitzy allure of Reno and Las Vegas, a cowboy stands on stage wearing a Stetson, with a poem tucked into his shirt pocket. As the lights dim, he clears his throat and begins to recite a heartfelt ballad about his greatest love—a horse. In mid-January, Elko, Nevada, comes alive with visitors from around the globe united for one reason: to participate in the annual National Cowboy Poetry Gathering.
Elko is recognized as Nevada's unofficial cowboy capital. Nestled by the Ruby Mountain Range, this former railroad town of 20,000 has been a hub of agricultural activity, from seasonal sheep herders traversing the Ruby Mountains to longstanding cattle ranching families. Established in 1868, Elko emerged alongside the relentless expansion of the Central Pacific Railroad. Legend has it that Charles Crocker, the CPRR superintendent who loved animals, simply added an “o” to the end of “elk” to name the town.
Elko is perhaps best known for its week-long National Cowboy Poetry Gathering, which was initiated in 1985 by a small group of local folklorists to celebrate regional poets. This pioneering event led to similar gatherings in other western states. Each year, Elko's population swells by over 50 percent as musicians and poets from across the nation converge to share their artistic creations. In 2023, after a two-year pause due to COVID, the Gathering returned in person, featuring notable poets like the first Native American Poet Laureate Joy Harjo, Montana's state poet laureate Henry Real Bird, and musical acts like the yodeling cowboy Sourdough Slim.
Elko possesses the edgy charm and glitzy excitement typical of a small Nevada town. It boasts at least six casinos and a red light district, and it has attracted a celebrity or two over the years: Bing Crosby was named an honorary mayor in 1948 while living in the area.
Whether you're visiting this charming Western town to immerse yourself in cowboy culture or gearing up for an outdoor adventure in the nearby Ruby Mountains, here's a guide to the top activities in Elko, Nevada.
Getting There
Elko, Nevada, is nestled in the heart of nowhere, which can be both a blessing and a curse. This remote setting is ideal for those looking to escape, but if you're heading to Elko, prepare for a journey. It's 289 miles from Reno (over four hours by car) and 230 miles from Salt Lake City (approximately a -hour drive). If you prefer train travel, there is an Amtrak station in Elko.
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Photo by Danita Delimont/Shutterstock
Things to Do
Cowboy Gear and Arts Museum
Location: 542 Commercial St.
Hours: Tuesday–Thursday and Saturday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m.
This museum is entirely dedicated to the traditions, heritage, culture, and gear of the cowboy. Visitors can explore western artifacts from the Elko region, including bridles, harnesses, antique saddles, and bits and spurs created by G.S. Garcia, a local icon known for his exquisite silver craftsmanship in the early 1900s. Admission is free, though donations are welcomed.
California Trail and Interpretive Center
Location: 1 Interpretive Center Way
Hours: Wednesday–Sunday, 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
While many are familiar with the Oregon Trail, few realize the significance of the equally challenging California Trail. Open from 1841 to 1861, it ran alongside the Oregon Trail before diverging towards the Sierra Nevada mountains. Known for its dangers (notably the path taken by the ill-fated Donner party), it nonetheless was a popular route westward. Between 1848 and 1850, over 75,000 people chose this route, albeit with caution. Managed by the Bureau of Land Management, the California Trail and Interpretive Center offers insights into this historic wagon road. Guests can learn about the pioneers who traveled the California Trail in pursuit of gold and land, along with key cultural sites related to the trail throughout Nevada. Admission is free.
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Photo by D Smith/Flickr
Dining Options
The Star Hotel and Bar
Location: 246 W Silver St.
Hours: Monday–Saturday, 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m.
An interesting tidbit about Elko: it hosts a significant Spanish Basque population—around 5,000 reside in the northeastern and central regions of the state. Many arrived in Nevada during the latter years of the California Gold Rush (in the mid-1800s) seeking land for sheep ranching (as many Basques were traditionally shepherds), while others escaped the Spanish Civil War. One of the top spots in town to experience Basque cuisine is the Star Hotel. Meals are served “Basque-style,” meaning the portions are generous (ideal for sharing) and accompanied by an array of sides, including hearty cabbage soup, beans, and freshly baked French bread. The Star Hotel is particularly renowned for its large steaks—if you're feeling adventurous, try the 36-oz. porterhouse (don’t forget the grilled onions!). For a drink to accompany your meal, consider the Picon Punch, a potent highball crafted with Amaro liqueur, a splash of grenadine, and lemon juice.
Toki Ona
Location: 1550 Idaho St.
Hours: Daily from 6 a.m.–9:30 p.m.
A beloved Basque restaurant in Elko is Toki Ona, located just off the main strip on Idaho Street. Known for its exceptional steak similar to that of the Star Hotel, Toki Ona also features tender lamb chops and has been a local favorite since it opened in 1990. Meals are served Basque-style with all the accompaniments, and the portions are quite large—make sure to bring a friend to help enjoy the feast.
Luciano’s
Location: 351 Silver St.
Hours: Monday–Friday, 11 a.m.–2 p.m.; Saturday, 5 p.m.–9 p.m.
If you're in the mood for something other than lamb chops and steaks, Luciano’s is the place to go for a hearty Italian meal. French-trained chef Luc Gerber whips up delicious pasta dishes like chicken and prawn vodka, stuffed manicotti, and sausage lasagna. Don’t miss the appetizers, especially the crab cakes and steamed baby clams.
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Photo by Kit Leong/Shutterstock
Accommodation Options
Camping on BLM Land
The Ruby Mountains and the surrounding rangelands near Elko are blissfully untouched by civilization and are managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Popular dispersed camping spots include Lamoille Canyon (about 30 minutes away) and Angel Lake (roughly an hour’s drive). Both sites are famous for their striking Caribbean-blue alpine waters and provide access to remote hiking and overnight backpacking trails. Nevada’s vast rural BLM lands offer opportunities for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding adventures. As these lands are also utilized by ranchers, you might encounter a herd of cattle or sheep during your stay!
While options for lodging in Elko are limited and boutique hotels are scarce, one of the top-rated places to stay is the Shutters Hotel. This craftsman-style lodge features 84 rooms on the outskirts of town. Guests can look forward to clean, newly renovated accommodations, a pool and hot tub, along with picturesque views of the Ruby Mountains.
For those who wish to experience ranch life while being close to Elko, consider reserving an Airbnb ranch house. This charming property, nestled near the mountains, features three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and accommodates up to six guests. It boasts a picturesque creek flowing through the grounds and a spacious, lush lawn ideal for hosting small outdoor gatherings or barbecues.
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