Can this woman inspire India to embrace wine?

India leads the world in whisky consumption.

Last year, the demand for Scotch whisky in India surged by 41%, according to the Scotch Whisky Association.

But when it comes to wine… Indians still haven't developed a taste for it.

Sonal Holland is on a mission to change that.

In 2016, Sonal Holland from Mumbai, now 44, became the first – and still the only – person in India to earn the prestigious Master of Wine (MW) title.

Founded in 1953 by the Institute of Masters of Wine in the UK, the MW qualification is the highest professional recognition in the wine industry and demands intense study and dedication.

Only 355 individuals worldwide have achieved this qualification.

Master of Wines (MWs) are frequently called upon to judge wine competitions, teach wine courses, and consult with governments, hotels, and airlines on their wine offerings.

‘It’s a moment of pride for India to have a Master of Wine,’ says Subhash Arora, president of the New Delhi-based Indian Wine Academy, a private wine consultancy, to Dinogo.

‘Even several European countries don’t have one, so this is a significant achievement,’ he adds.

The Start

In 2006, Sonal Holland grew disillusioned with her corporate role at a recruitment firm in Mumbai.

One evening, her husband Andrew Holland, a British hedge fund manager, suggested she explore studying wine. 'The wine industry in India is just starting to grow. You could become a wine professional,' she recalls him saying.

Holland had always enjoyed wine and was fascinated by its role in different cultures, but the idea of formally studying it had never crossed her mind.

‘I thought, ‘Yeah, great idea!’ My overconfidence kicked in,’ she laughs as she remembers.

That moment would prove to be a turning point.

India is not known for its wine consumption or production. Only a small fraction of its 1.2 billion population has ever tasted wine.

With India's rapidly expanding middle class, millions are eager to discover the world of wine.

Soon after passing, she set her sights on becoming a Master of Wine.

The Wine Challenge

To earn the MW title, Holland had to pass a demanding exam. The five 3-hour theory papers on viticulture, winemaking, and bottling were challenging, but she says they weren’t the toughest part.

The real test was the wine tasting.

The practical portion involves blind tasting 36 wines over three days, evaluating their origin, quality, winemaking process, and style.

Preparing for this was tough, Holland explains, as India lacks access to a diverse selection of wines. Moreover, many of the available wines are damaged during transit or improperly stored, affecting their taste.

‘I had to rely on all my tasting experience abroad. I traveled extensively to vineyards, learning from winemakers about their techniques and how practices differ across regions,’ she says.

But nothing could stop Holland, even if it meant making personal sacrifices.

One of her exams, for instance, was scheduled on her daughter’s fifth birthday.

‘I watched her cut the cake over Skype. It was 3 a.m. in London, and I kept thinking, ‘I need sleep for the exam, I need to be fresh,’’ she recalls.

‘I felt like a terrible mother. If I had thought about it too much, I would have broken down and quit,’ she admits.

But she pushed through, and after six years of relentless effort, became India’s first Master of Wine.

Achieving Mastery

‘The MW is highly respected in wine circles and is one of the most difficult qualifications to earn,’ says Eddie McDougall, the wine columnist and TV personality behind The Flying Winemaker, an events and marketing company in Asia with a Discovery Channel show.

‘It demands extensive study, personal investment, and years of hands-on experience in the industry to achieve,’ he adds.

The Master of Wine title carries great weight for Holland.

‘Becoming a Master of Wine is not the end of the journey,’ she says. ‘It’s actually where it all begins.’

Holland’s mission is to educate the people of India about wine.

‘Wherever I go, I carry the flag of India. I must do things that will benefit the Indian wine industry,’ says Holland. ‘It’s about growing the consumer base. India must become a relevant player in the global wine market.’

In 2009, she founded The Sonal Holland Wine Academy, a consultancy that educates both consumers and professionals in the hospitality and wine industries about wines and spirits.

Last year, Holland launched the SoHo Wine Club, which hosts guided tastings for its members. Earlier this year, she also introduced the India Wine Awards, celebrating the finest wines, both domestic and international, available in the Indian market.

‘She has an incredible energy and commitment to wine. All Masters of Wine share this passion, but Sonal fully understands the responsibility she carries as India’s first MW, and she is embracing the challenge with full force,’ says Penny Richards, executive director of The Institute of Masters of Wine.

Discovering India

One of Holland's key accomplishments was initiating the India Wine Insider 2017 survey – the first in-depth research into wine attitudes and knowledge in urban India.

The study surveyed 878 wine drinkers from Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore, Pune, and Goa, exploring their consumption habits, preferences, and level of knowledge.

The survey revealed a clear preference for red wine over white. However, when asked about grape varieties, 28% of participants were 'unaware' of any.

Only 39% had heard of Shiraz, and just 18% were familiar with Cabernet Sauvignon, highlighting the early stage of this market's development.

Interestingly, Indians – at least for now – prefer their own domestic wines. According to Holland's report, 82% of those surveyed had consumed Indian wines in the past six months, while only 24% had tried French wines and 20% had tasted Australian varieties.

Most of India’s wine production is centered around the Nashik region in Maharashtra, which is home to about 30 active wineries. Meanwhile, Bangalore's wine scene is also gaining traction with local consumers.

While it's rewarding to see the Indian wine industry flourish, Holland says her greatest moment came at home.

On the day she became a Master of Wine, her eight-year-old daughter burst into excitement, exclaiming: ‘Mummy, are you really India’s first and only Master of Wine? That makes you one in a billion!’

Holland couldn't help but agree.