Celebrating the Heritage of Tequila in Jalisco, Mexico

This article first appeared in the February 17, 2024 issue of Dinogo Travel, providing insights from Dinogo staff about culinary destinations worth exploring. Subscribe now.

Invisible to the world around me, I felt beads of sweat starting to form and trickle down my back. Under the searing sun, I gazed out at an expansive field of blue agave plants stretching endlessly before me, and a sense of tranquility enveloped me. Earlier that day, I had journeyed from my home in Atlanta to the vibrant state of Jalisco, Mexico, landing in Guadalajara before venturing deeper to experience tequila at the exclusive, invite-only Hacienda Patrón in Atotonilco El Alto.

Over the years, I’ve often joked that tequila brings tears to my eyes. Drinking the blue agave spirit tends to make me more emotionally expressive than usual, and honestly, it’s not my preferred drink. However, immersed in the heart of tequila production and witnessing the craft firsthand, I found myself inspired and ready to overcome my longstanding indifference to tequila.

A sudden burst of noise shattered the tranquil atmosphere as a jimador, skilled in the art of harvesting agave, began his work. With a hoe in hand, he struck the plant repeatedly with fervor, stripping away the bitter outer leaves to reveal the creamy, pineapple-like heart of the agave. His technique was so meticulous that each swing seemed to slice through the plant effortlessly, like a hot knife through butter.

Our guides led us through Patrón’s facilities, showcasing the distillation process. It wasn’t until I missed several signals that I realized it was my turn to participate in the harvesting. Following the jimador's instructions, I inserted a metal tool resembling a thermometer into the heart of a freshly cut piña. My guide quickly translated that this tool measures the sugar content of the harvested piña.

During my stay in Jalisco, I found myself reflecting on the effort that goes into each tequila I tasted. What resonated with me most was the deep-rooted ancestral traditions behind tequila production. Beyond the sightseeing and sampling, it was the importance of these customs and practices that highlighted the labor behind every bottle of tequila.

The role of a jimador is often passed down through generations; a father imparts his skills to a son, nephew, or another family member, and when they come of age, they take over, making the craft their own. In remote areas, whether in valleys or on mountains, teams of up to seven jimadores embark on their quest for tequila, filling trucks with piñas destined for cooking, crushing, and fermentation before becoming bottled delights.

In a landscape where trendy celebrity-endorsed tequila brands are prevalent, it’s essential to appreciate the artisanal and indigenous methods that underpin the true essence of tequila appreciation.

What we consume—be it drinks or food—serves as more than just reflections of our tastes; they embody rituals that connect us to our ancestors, to those who honed their craft with dedication. We eat, we savor, we drink in tribute to them and ourselves. In doing so, we honor both our heritage and our identities through the foods of our culture.

Tequila, along with the daily rituals in Jalisco that celebrate it, embodies a dedication to routine, artistry, and craftsmanship. This experience served as a poignant reminder that many of the things we consume thoughtlessly are the result of the passionate labor of countless individuals.

Nneka M. Okona is a Nigerian American freelance writer based in Atlanta. Her writing explores the intersections of food, travel, and the history and culture of Black people.