Cinque Terre's Beloved Hiking Trail Fully Reopens After Over a Decade

The Via dell’Amore, Cinque Terre's iconic pathway along the Ligurian coast, has officially reopened for lovers and tourists after a 12-year renovation costing 23 million euros (approximately US$26.5 million).

The rugged 'Lover’s Lane' or 'Path of Love' has been one of Italy’s most popular hiking spots since it was carved out in the early 1930s. Following a landslide in 2012 that closed the path, an extensive restoration project began, leaving fans of the trail waiting for over a decade. A brief reopening of a 555-foot section in August 2023 served as a test run. However, as of August 9, 2024, the entire 2,950-foot pathway has reopened with some updates and new restrictions.

No more graffiti on the walls; this historic trail will now be a clean canvas. Additionally, there will be timed entries, a cap on visitor numbers, and pre-booked reservations—all measures aimed at encouraging sustainable tourism throughout Cinque Terre, the stunning stretch of coastline along the Italian Riviera, which includes the charming seaside towns of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso.

A Guide to Visiting the Reopened Via dell’Amore in Cinque Terre

Mark your calendars and fire up your devices! Visitors are required to reserve time slots in 15-minute increments. Within just the first week of reopening, over 10,000 reservations were made, as reported by the Commune of Riomaggiore, where the path begins. During peak season, the trail operates as a one-way route from Riomaggiore to Manarola, allowing visitors 30 minutes each, with a limit of 400 people per hour. Guides will be stationed along the path to answer questions and share insights about the trail and the Cinque Terre region.

In the peak season (April 1 to October 31), the path operates from 8:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. (with the last entry at 9 p.m.), while in the off-season (November 1 to March 31), hours are from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last entry at 4:30 p.m.). Residents of Riomaggiore, Vernazza, and Monterosso can enjoy free access without reservations from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m., along with additional provisions for residents of La Spezia.

Tickets for the Via dell’Amore can be obtained online exclusively through the Cinque Terre Card Via dell’Amore. For an additional fee of 10 euros, access can also be added to any already purchased Cinque Terre Card. The Cinque Terre cards grant access to various hiking trails and train routes. For tourists with the resident tourist card (Guest Card) who are staying in accommodations with the CETS Environmental Quality Mark (European Charter for Sustainable Tourism), the fee is 8 euros.

“We are bringing back the Via dell’Amore in all its glory, uniqueness, and utmost safety for locals, Ligurians, and visitors from around the globe,” said Giacomo Raul Giampedrone, the Liguria Region councilor, during a press conference on July 9 to announce the reopening.

What to expect from the newly reopened Via dell’Amore

The recently restored stretch of the Via dell’Amore showcases a revitalized Lover’s Lane along the coastal cliffs, emphasizing environmental integration, safety, and conservation. Starting in January 2021, expert rock workers were transported by helicopter to secure the rocks above and below the path with steel mesh, covering nearly 28,000 square feet with rockfall barriers. An underground tunnel providing structural support for the path has been extended, accompanied by a 574-foot breakwater to combat erosion from strong waves.

More than 8,800 plants have been reintroduced along the cliffs to enhance the natural landscape. The new Via dell’Amore features specially pigmented concrete that harmonizes visually and architecturally with the surroundings, blending seamlessly with the rocky terrain. Additionally, a geotechnical monitoring system has been implemented to track rock movement, providing early warnings for any potential landslide risks.

Alessandro Pecunia, interim president of the Liguria Region, describes the reopened Via dell’Amore as an “open-air museum,” which will eventually feature site-specific artworks. In the meantime, visitors can enjoy on-site storytelling with guides and interactive panels detailing podcasts that share the history, nature, geology, and community stories of the trail. Riomaggiore's mayor, Fabrizia Pecunia, emphasized this initiative as a chance to fundamentally shift towards conscious tourism, allowing both the community and visitors to safeguard the fragile landscape and the identity of the Cinque Terre.

The allure—and crucial preservation—of Italy's Cinque Terre region

Located 100 feet above sea level, the Via dell’Amore is part of the longer CAI Number 2 hiking trail, known as the Sentiero Azzurro (blue path), which spans 12.5 miles and links all five villages while traversing the entire Cinque Terre region from Riomaggiore to Monterosso.

Originally, the Via dell’Amore was not envisioned as a showcase for trekking, romantic rendezvous, or Instagram photos. The cliffside villages along this trail date back to the 11th century and were initially reachable only by sea, followed by winding and challenging footpaths. The Via dell’Amore was created in the 1930s as part of the new railway that connected Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Riomaggiore, and Manarola.

Long before Rick Steves highlighted Cinque Terre as a must-see destination in the late 1970s, the collection of quaint villages along Italy’s western coast attracted travelers who walked the paths linking the towns to enjoy breathtaking sea vistas and unforgettable hikes. Recognized as the simplest of over 48 trails in Cinque Terre, the Via dell’Amore also offered picturesque scenery, winding past pastel buildings and showcasing stunning views. In the 1950s, journalist Paolo Monelli discovered a rock inscribed with the words Via dell’Amore, forever linking the path to its romantic appeal. In 1997, Cinque Terre, along with nearby Portovenere, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.

However, Cinque Terre offers more than just beautiful views. Before the path’s closure, over 870,000 people visited the Via dell’Amore each year—a significant number compared to the combined population of just 4,000 residents across the five villages. Annually, Cinque Terre attracts more than 2.4 million visitors. With increasing concerns regarding overtourism, it’s not surprising that the reopening of the Via dell’Amore has placed restrictions on visitor numbers. The trail's reopening is part of a broader pilot program aimed at fostering sustainable tourism throughout the entire Cinque Terre region.

For example, Cinque Terre has been actively encouraging beach cleanups, professionally guided responsible hikes, wine tourism, and exhibitions showcasing local artisans. These initiatives aim to draw visitors away from the heavily trafficked Sentiero Azzurro and encourage exploration of the region’s rich cultural heritage and commitment to environmental conservation. By enticing tourists to experience a variety of cultural activities, the area supports local communities, mitigates foot traffic erosion, and helps fund the preservation of the cliffs and paths that attract so many visitors.

For those looking to immerse themselves in the region’s natural beauty, the Cinque Terre National Park offers a Cinque Terre Card, a day pass granting access to over 70 nature trails, as well as the historic towns and sanctuaries within the park. This card also includes guided tours, such as a unique “plogging” hike—an exercise trend combining jogging with picking up litter.

Each village invites visitors to explore the area more thoroughly through alternative experiences, such as hiking through vineyards to understand the challenges of the steep terrain, touring local castles, visiting art studios, and kayaking along the coast. To further alleviate the crowds in Cinque Terre, consider planning your visit during the off-season. The UNESCO site, along with its trails and towns, remains open year-round, making November through February ideal for hiking.

“The charm of our region lies in the harmony between humanity and nature,” says Christine Mitchell-De Fina, a resident and co-manager of the restaurant La Cantina di Miky. “We can share the delicacy of these villages by showcasing our winemaking process, highlighting the work of our artists, and promoting alternative trails.”