Dinogo’s Guide to Madeira, Portugal

Madeira, Portugal, is a subtropical island located off the northwestern coast of Africa, often seen as a hotspot for tourists. This perspective isn't entirely wrong; with its history as a departure point for ships since the 15th century, Madeira has become one of Europe's oldest tourist attractions. Today, it attracts many retirees and package tourists from the UK and northern Europe. Yet, despite this influx, Madeira retains its pleasant climate, crystal-clear waters, and stunning landscapes, all of which contribute to its rich culinary heritage.

Capturing the essence of Madeira can be challenging, but think of it as a less tropical, more rugged version of Hawaii influenced by European culture. Like the Pacific islands, Madeira offers plenty of outdoor activities—especially hiking—while also featuring its share of touristy attractions. However, if you rent a car and venture just a few minutes from Funchal, the capital, you'll find yourself surrounded by vineyards overlooking the sea, ancient Catholic churches, and breathtaking mountain scenery.

What is Madeiran cuisine all about?

Seafood is central to traditional Madeiran cuisine. Local favorites include oily fish like atum (tuna) and gaiado (skipjack tuna), while the leaner peixe espada (black scabbard fish) is a staple. Lapas (limpets) are a beloved dish, typically served on the half shell, topped with garlic butter, and roasted in a unique pan for added flavor.

The island's culinary landscape has been significantly influenced by its history as a shipping outpost. For centuries, Madeira served as a vital stop for European vessels traveling to and from Africa, Asia, and the Americas. This exposure has infused the local cuisine with diverse ingredients, cultures, and cooking techniques from around the globe. It is likely that items once considered exotic, such as potatoes, chiles, and corn from the Americas, as well as nutmeg and cloves from Asia, first made their way to Europe through Madeira.

Sugarcane had a profound influence on Madeira's development. Brought from Sicily in the early 15th century, the crop thrived, making the island a major sugar supplier for Europe. However, by the 16th century, sugar production shifted to the Americas, leading to a decline in Madeira's sugar industry. Nevertheless, sugarcane still plays a role in the island's culinary scene. Today, Madeira is home to six sugarcane processing mills, including one that operates on steam. Some of these mills convert sugarcane juice into agricultural rum, while others produce molasses for local sweets.

Today, Madeira is celebrated for its tropical fruits, which are a rarity in Europe. The subtropical climate allows for the cultivation of fruits not commonly found elsewhere on the continent. Banana plantations thrive along the southern coast, while other fruits like passionfruit, guava, papaya, custard apple, pitanga, and tamarillo, familiar to South Americans, are abundant.

If there's one ingredient that many people might recognize, it's the fortified wine named after the island. This unique drink was born out of an accident when fortified wine encountered prolonged heat during lengthy sea voyages. Surprisingly, this exposure enhanced the wine's complexity, and today, winemakers have developed various techniques to replicate this delightful mishap.

Essential terms for food enthusiasts

Vinho da Madeira For fans of port, the fortified wine from Madeira offers a complex blend of flavors and aromas that include salty, woody, varnish-like, oxidized, citrus, and spice notes. The island boasts seven winehouses, most of which welcome visitors for tours and tastings.

Espetada While seafood is essential to the local cuisine, Madeira’s most renowned dish consists of marinated beef chunks, infused with garlic and bay leaves, skewered on laurel branches (or, more commonly now, metal skewers), and grilled over open flames. It is traditionally served with bolo de caco (a sweet potato flatbread), toasted and generously spread with garlic butter, along with milho frito (polenta seasoned with local thyme, set, and deep-fried). The espetadas are presented on the skewer, often hung from creative holders, with slices of bolo de caco placed underneath to catch the savory drippings.

Bolo de mel This signature sweet from the island is a rich, dark cake made from molasses, lard, citrus juice, Madeira wine, and spices. It’s believed to have been inspired by similar English cakes designed for long sea voyages. Once associated with Christmas, it is now enjoyed year-round.

Poncha Madeira boasts a vibrant cocktail culture, and its most famous drink is poncha, a mix of local white rum, citrus juice, and sugar and/or honey. Ideally prepared fresh, these ingredients are vigorously combined using a stick humorously called a caralhinho, or “little dick.” Though served in a small glass, poncha packs a potent punch. Consider yourself warned.

Levadas and veredas The island’s northern coast receives the bulk of its rainfall. In the 15th century, settlers began channeling this water through a network of aqueducts called levadas, an engineering achievement recognized by UNESCO. Today, exploring the levadas and veredas (a general term for paths) is a popular activity for visitors to Madeira. Many excursions, particularly in the island's rugged interior, can be combined with a hearty meal at mountaintop Mytouries like Faísca or the Sunday market in Santo da Serra.

Dining options

Funchal and its surroundings

Kampo

Chef Júlio Pereira has established a mini restaurant empire in Funchal with two locations: Ákua, dedicated to seafood, and Kampo, which showcases the bounty of the land. At Kampo, you can stroll past the dry-aging refrigerator, settle at the chef's counter amid a mostly local crowd, and enjoy the superb local lamb, best complemented by a bottle of local table wine — a rarity in restaurants typically favoring fortified wines.

Desarma

Desarma’s bold taglines, such as “Prepare yourself to surrender” and “An army of sensations,” reflect its provocative culinary approach. Chef Octávio Freitas reimagines the classic ingredients and dishes from his island, creatively transforming local bananas into shapes resembling the stones found on Madeira's beaches. The outcome is both intriguing and delectable, especially when paired with unique selections from Desarma’s knowledgeable sommelier, João Barbosa, who enjoys experimenting with wine pairings.

The coast

SolMar

This cozy restaurant attracts locals and visitors from mainland Portugal who crave arroz de lapas, a tomato-infused rice dish adorned with limpets. Complement your meal with any seafood delight from their skilled kitchen. With picturesque views of Seixal’s charming tiled rooftops and the sparkling Atlantic, you’re in for a relaxing lunch.

Vila do Peixe

Vila do Peixe boasts stunning panoramic views of Câmara de Lobos Bay, making it easy to mistake it for a tourist trap. However, this restaurant takes its seafood seriously. Simply point out what catches your eye in the chilled display, request it grilled with just a pinch of coarse salt, and don’t miss the featherlight passionfruit cheesecake for dessert. You’re sure to leave satisfied.

Cabo Aéro Café

Casual doesn’t get better than this open-air setup of plastic chairs perched on a cliff's edge. The chef here, a former construction worker, runs one of the island’s top grills. Those in the know rave about the off-menu ventresca de atum grelhada (grilled tuna belly), while the espetada is flawlessly prepared, cooked the traditional way on laurel branches. Stunning views of the island’s northern coast and a group of friendly resident cats complete the experience.

Doca do Cavacas

Doca do Cavacas offers multiple levels of seating with breathtaking views of a natural swimming pool and Madeira’s tallest cliff. The ambiance is unbeatable, and when it comes to food, you can't go wrong with their grilled fish and seafood. The limpets, in particular, are among the best you'll find on the island.

Engenhos de Calheta

Functioning as both a sugarcane processing facility and a distillery, Engenhos de Calheta is renowned for producing one of the finest bolo de mel on the island. Grab a mini version from the gift shop and enjoy it with a cup of coffee at the cozy café next door.

The interior

As Vides

As Vides prides itself on being the oldest and most traditional spot on Madeira for enjoying espetada, and the quaint, meticulous atmosphere only adds to its charm. Each table features elegant wrought-iron stands for the hanging skewers, complemented by slightly elevated versions of traditional sides: crispy fried polenta cubes, garlic bread, and a fresh green salad.

Restaurante Snack Bar Faísca

Nestled deep in the misty mountains of Madeira, this casual yet outstanding restaurant is a local favorite. Diners know to order the prego, a thin steak sandwich served in the beloved garlic butter-soaked bolo de caco, alongside a bowl of rich tomato soup topped with a poached egg. Almost every dish from this kitchen is sure to please. Finish off your meal with a café cortado, a delightful blend of hot coffee, Madeira wine, a sprinkle of sugar, and a hint of lemon zest—ideal for refueling after a levada hike.

Restaurante Polar

At the more laid-back end of the espetada scene, Polar features a concise menu of grilled meats served on skewers with classic sides. When offered extra garlic butter for your beef skewer, enthusiastically reply “Yes!” as it’s applied using a clever method that ties a parchment paper pouch filled with butter around the top of the sizzling skewer.

O Moinho

This restaurant leans toward the tourist-friendly side, but it’s a solid spot to sample carne de vinha d’alhos, succulent cubes of pork belly marinated in white wine and garlic, believed to have inspired the Indian vindaloo. Its hilltop setting provides breathtaking views over the island’s dry, rocky eastern coastline.

Adega do Pomar

Situated atop a mountain at the edge of one of Madeira’s few remaining old-growth forests, this charming lodge-style restaurant specializes in hearty, rustic Portuguese fare served in traditional clay dishes. Adega do Pomar is associated with an apple orchard, making it a must-visit for chef and owner Márcio Nóbrega’s exceptional house-made ciders that push culinary boundaries.

Where to enjoy a drink

Funchal and its surroundings

H.M. Borges

Borges stands as one of the island's most traditional Madeira winehouses, with roots that trace back to 1924. This heritage is reflected in the winery's premises, still operated by the fourth generation of the founding family. They produce fortified wines characterized by a distinct salty and woody flavor. You can arrange a visit and tasting in advance.

The coast

Bar Praia da Laje

This lively, somewhat chaotic open-air bar is a melting pot of local beachgoers, seasoned fishermen, and sunburned tourists. Situated on a small peninsula along the island’s northern shore, it offers breathtaking views of steep cliffs. Enjoy the ambiance with a bottle of Coral beer and a serving of buttery, garlicky limpets for an authentic Madeira experience.

North Mills Distillery

With a rich history in sugarcane production, Madeira has developed a unique affinity for rum agricole, which is distilled from sugarcane juice instead of sugar or molasses. Established in 1927, North Mills Distillery is among the last steam-powered factories remaining in Europe. Visitors can join guided tours of the facility (sugarcane pressing occurs from March to May), along with rum tastings and a laid-back bar experience.

The interior

A Venda do André

At A Venda do André, it seems like time has stood still since 1946. This charming corner shop and rustic bar is the quintessential spot for enjoying poncha, Madeira’s signature cocktail, prepared fresh to order. Sip your drink while taking in the breathtaking views of the winding roads and contemplating your journey home.

Barbeito

If you ask any Portuguese wine enthusiast about Madeira wine, Barbeito is likely the first name they'll mention. Known for its lively acidity that stands out among island producers, Barbeito takes a forward-thinking and eclectic approach, blending traditional and modern methods for distinctive wines. Tours and tastings can be scheduled through their website.

The finest food markets

Mercado Agrícola Santo da Serra

The Sunday market at Santo da Serra may be small, but it encapsulates the island’s rich agricultural diversity. You'll find a variety of European and tropical fruits, baked goods, local honey, dried herbs, and even cooking utensils. One of the market’s standout features is the drink vendors, offering local cider, pitchers of poncha, and spirited coffee drinks, all paired with delightful bites that range from crispy pork rinds to fava bean salad.

Mercado dos Lavradores

Funchal’s art deco central market is undeniably charming, though it leans towards the touristy side. Nonetheless, it’s a must-visit to appreciate the vast array of tropical fruits the island has to offer. On days when the fishing boats bring in large hauls, the seafood section—occupying nearly half the market—can be quite impressive, featuring fishmongers expertly preparing massive tunas and swordfish.

Top hotels offering exceptional food and drink

The Views Baía

Standing tall and dark, The Views dominates the skyline of Funchal, Madeira’s bustling urban hub. The contemporary rooms feature sleek designs and balconies that provide those sought-after views. The hotel houses Desarma, one of the island's most innovative restaurants, and is conveniently located just a short stroll from the historic center of Funchal. Room rates start at 149 euros ($165) during peak season.

Quinta da Bela Vista

Looking to unwind during your time in Madeira? Consider a stay at this tranquil, lush estate located just outside Funchal's bustling city center. The expansive rooms, nestled within grand manor houses, feature balconies that overlook the verdant, almost jungle-like gardens. Enjoy the pool with stunning views of Funchal and make use of the tennis courts, all just a short drive from Câmara de Lobos' restaurants. Room rates begin at 234 euros ($259) during peak season.

Reid’s Palace

This iconic Madeira hotel enchants even the most seasoned traveler with its historic charm. Set on a cliff with sweeping views of Funchal Bay, the property features a lush garden and swimming area along the rocky shoreline. Be sure to experience the culinary creations of chef Luís Pestana at the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, William. Rooms start at 600 euros ($664) during high season.

Austin Bush is an American writer and photographer residing in Lisbon, Portugal. He spent over 20 years in Bangkok, Thailand, where he contributed to nearly every major food and travel publication, as well as authoring more than 30 guidebooks for Lonely Planet. In 2018, he authored and photographed the James Beard Award finalist, The Food of Northern Thailand, and his upcoming book, The Food of Southern Thailand, is set to release in 2024.