Dinogo’s Guide to Phuket, Thailand’s Island Gem

Phuket is among the world’s top travel spots. In 2022, around 9 million tourists flocked to Thailand’s largest island, down from 15 million in 2018, drawn by its pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and lush palm trees. Many visitors gravitate towards the resorts lining the coast, which cater well to sun-seekers. However, the most popular tourist areas often fall short when it comes to authentic food. Dining on a busy beach like Patong might lead you to borscht or burgers instead of a perfectly crafted Thai curry. Eating at your hotel generally means settling for overpriced, milder versions of Bangkok-style cuisine, leaving the vibrant, rich flavors of southern Thai cuisine largely unrepresented.

Yet, Phuket’s culinary landscape holds a hidden gem: its landlocked capital, Phuket Town. This quaint urban hub boasts what may be the highest concentration of great dining in Thailand. Here, a unique culinary heritage emerges from a fusion of Chinese, southern Thai, Malaysian, and other international influences. In recent years, tourist-focused restaurants and fast food have encroached upon the town’s charming Chinese-Portuguese shophouses, but alongside them remain longstanding noodle stalls, casual curry shops, famous Mytouries, and lively markets — all within walking distance, a rarity in Thailand.

Beyond Phuket Town, adventurous diners willing to navigate language barriers will find rich rewards. The inland regions and areas between beaches are filled with stalls serving southern Thai curries, Thai Muslim dishes, Chinese noodles, and even northeastern Thai barbecue.

To enjoy exceptional food alongside breathtaking beaches, focus your culinary adventures around Phuket Town, arguably Thailand’s most overlooked food destination, while also venturing out for memorable meals elsewhere on the island.

What can you expect from the food in Phuket?

Southern Thailand boasts the spiciest cuisine in the country, characterized by the prominent use of fresh and dried chilies, black pepper, and ginger, giving dishes a sharp kick. Common ingredients also include fresh turmeric, coconut milk, and both fresh and preserved seafood, which come together in an array of unique dips, soups, curries, and stir-fries that define the region.

Phuket's culinary landscape is distinctly different. Situated in the southwest of Thailand along the Andaman Sea, the island has historically enjoyed strong connections with the Straits Settlements, which were British colonies encompassing Singapore, Melaka, and Penang, now part of Malaysia. These ties introduced various regional culinary traditions, while Phuket also absorbed influences from the Muslim world, South Asia, and even European cuisines.

The exchange of cultures surged in the 19th century when tin mining in Phuket hit its peak. Many immigrant workers, mainly Hokkien-speaking Chinese from the Straits Settlements and Fujian Province, largely maintained their Hokkien identity and culinary traditions instead of integrating with mainstream Thai culture. Today, some dishes in Phuket are more reminiscent of those found in southern China and Penang, another significant Hokkien hub in Southeast Asia, than in Bangkok.

Unlike the rest of southern Thailand, Phuket's cuisine uses chiles sparingly, favoring mild and well-balanced flavors. Many renowned dishes here carry Hokkien Chinese names, with soy sauce taking precedence over fish sauce. The long-standing interaction between Hokkien immigrants and Thais has birthed a unique fusion cuisine known locally as Baba.

Essential terms for food enthusiasts

Hokkien: The Hokkien tin miners significantly influenced Phuket’s culture and cuisine, introducing dishes from China’s southwestern coast that remain popular today, like the 'Hokkien-style' noodles served at MeeTonPoe and Somchit.

Baba: In regions where Chinese and Southeast Asian cultures intersect — including Singapore, Melaka, Penang, and Phuket — a unique fusion of languages, cultures, and cuisines emerged. Known as Peranakan or Baba-Nyonya in other places, this hybrid culture is generally referred to as Baba in Phuket. Today, the culinary aspects of Phuket’s Baba culture persist, evident in a selection of dishes and snacks found in homes, markets, and restaurants. Notably, you can find an array of Baba-style sweets and savory treats at Cham-Cha Market in Phuket Town.

Vegetarian Festival: Legend has it that in 1825, Phuket was facing a cholera outbreak. A Chinese opera troupe present on the island decided to assist by undertaking a period of asceticism, abstaining from meat and other foods. For approximately two weeks in September or October, followers of Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival commemorate their sacrifice by adhering to 17 precepts, including the avoidance of meat. During this period, many restaurants in Phuket Town switch to meat-free menus, announcing the change with yellow banners. Some participants take self-sacrifice to extreme levels, engaging in rituals like walking on hot coals, climbing ladders made of blades, or piercing their cheeks with swords.

Muu hawng: This dish consists of generous chunks of fatty pork belly braised in a rich blend of soy sauce, garlic, and ample crushed black pepper, exemplifying the essence of Baba-style cuisine. The version at Raya Restaurant offers a perfect introduction to this culinary delight.

Kung siap: A hallmark of Phuket's cuisine, these shrimp are skewered and slowly dried over coals, typically ground with garlic, chilies, and shrimp paste to create a naam phrik — a spicy Thai-style dip served with a variety of vegetables and herbs. Be sure to sample naam phrik kung siap at Nam Yoi Restaurant.

Khanom jeen: These thin, round noodles are crafted from fermented rice flour and prepared fresh, never dried. Commonly served with curries, diners can choose toppings of herbs or other garnishes. This dish is a cherished favorite in southern Thailand, and Kanom Jeen Pa Mai in Phuket Town is renowned for its legendary preparations.

Dining options within and beyond Phuket Town

Phuket Town

Nam Yoi Restaurant

Nam Yoi is a delightful, cozy spot where locals often celebrate special occasions with their families. The relaxed, almost countryside vibe, along with affordable prices and tasty dishes, will likely entice you to return frequently. A photo menu featuring English descriptions effectively helps new diners navigate the offerings of Phuket-style cuisine, including the crunchy, savory shrimp chile crisp, as well as southern Thai classics like the rich coconut milk soup with shrimp, enhanced by liang, a local green similar to spinach or beet greens.

Roti Chaofa Phuket

The Muslim community of Southern Thailand showcases a unique culinary style influenced by both Western Asia and South Asia at this casual Mytoury with an open front. Be sure to try the signature roti, which pairs beautifully with kaeng phae (goat curry) or is filled with egg and minced meat in the delicious mataba. The concise yet impressive menu also features Thai Muslim-style biryani, tangy and spicy beef and chicken soups, and a Guest Salad (the direct translation of salat khaek, a Thai Muslim salad topped with a peanut dressing).

MeeTonPoe

The signature noodle dish of Phuket is mee Hokkien, also known as 'Hokkien-style noodles.' These yellow wheat noodles are stir-fried with a blend of pork, seafood, and greens until they achieve a smoky flavor, then topped with a light, savory gravy and a perfectly cooked egg. While you can find it at various locations in town, MeeTonPoe, with multiple branches throughout the island, is recognized for setting the benchmark.

Raya Restaurant

Raya is undoubtedly one of the most renowned restaurants in Phuket Town, primarily due to a standout dish: crab meat cooked in curry with coconut milk. This dish features a spicy, aromatic curry with finger-sized pieces of crab served alongside thin, round rice noodles, inspiring numerous imitations across the island. Its charming setting in a former mansion, along with excellent versions of other local favorites, like Phuket-style steamed pork with pepper and garlic, make it a must-visit.

Kanom Jeen Pa Mai

A dish that truly brings southern Thais together is khanom jeen, which features a delightful pairing of noodles and curry, served at Pa Mai in Phuket Town. Upon arrival, you’ll be presented with a plate of thin rice noodles, ready to be topped with a selection of various curries. At your table, you can enhance the dish with an array of condiments and garnishes, including vegetables cooked in coconut milk and crispy deep-fried anchovies.

Lock Tien

This cozy, semi-open food court, situated right in the heart of Phuket Town, offers an immersive experience into local cuisine. One stall serves loh ba, featuring crispy fried pork bits paired with a sweet, fragrant dipping sauce, while another specializes in mee Hokkien, the famous Hokkien-style fried noodles. To finish your meal, indulge in o-aew, a unique Phuket dessert made with shaved ice.

Somchit Noodle Soup

The Hokkien Chinese have a stronghold on Phuket Town’s noodle scene. This beloved shophouse Mytoury has been serving yellow Hokkien-style noodles for decades, swimming in flavorful broth and accompanied by dumplings and fish balls. Enhance your meal by pairing it with steamed fish in curry paste, a common side dish at traditional Phuket noodle spots, featuring fish curry steamed in banana leaves.

Go Benz Rice Porridge Phuket

To find Go Benz, just follow the queue. This popular spot attracts diners from Bangkok who crave its intensely savory and salty rice porridge, enriched with braised pork off-cuts, including irresistibly crispy cubes of Chinese-style pork belly.

Ro Ba Mae Ya Nang

Loh ba features crispy deep-fried bits of pork, tofu, or starch, served with cucumbers and a fragrant five-spice dip. While this dish can be found in other areas with Perenakan/Baba-Nyonya heritage such as Singapore, Melaka, and Penang, Phuket is the only place to enjoy it in Thailand.

Mingalar Coffee Shop

Chances are, the staff who cleaned your hotel room and the chefs preparing your meals hail from Myanmar. Phuket is home to a significant population of Burmese immigrants, and their culinary influence is evident in a small collection of shops and restaurants behind the morning market. Mingalar offers a taste of Yangon with its sweet tea served in tiny glasses, naan paired with pigeon pea dip, and rich, flavorful curries over rice.

Exploring the island

Laem Hin Seafood

Laem Hin stretches across a sprawling, semi-open pier that extends into Phang Nga Bay. This quintessential Thai seafood restaurant boasts a kitchen that outshines many competitors. Alongside the usual tanks of live seafood and Chinese-inspired dishes, the Local Food section of the menu offers a taste of southern and Phuket-style cuisine, even if the English translations can be a bit quirky.

Mor Mu Dong Restaurant

Mor Mu Dong features dining platforms elevated above a lush mangrove swamp. Locals flock here for unique dishes that highlight local herbs and ingredients, such as spicy stuffed fish—mackerel filled with curry paste and fried; sea grape salad, showcasing crunchy seaweed; and rice dyed a stunning cobalt by butterfly pea flowers.

Project Artisan

Project Artisan is a lively and colorful complex that includes a bar, bakery, and restaurant, making it a standout in Phuket's otherwise average Western dining scene. The diverse menu ranges from poke to bruschetta, catering to a wide array of tastes. Its welcoming and relaxed atmosphere encourages diners to savor extended meals.

Laad Phuket

Led by an American chef, this trendy new restaurant at the heart of the island focuses primarily on the flavors of southern Thailand (the name translates to “Phuket Market”). Occasionally, the menu explores influences from other parts of Thailand and beyond, especially in its playful and inventive desserts.

Hom

The Intercontinental Phuket Resort has paired a Portuguese chef with an in-house fermentation specialist to create one of the island’s most innovative fine dining experiences. Focused on local ingredients, the 10-course tasting menu presents a variety of exquisite bites and sips, artfully combined in unexpected and intriguing ways.

Top spots for drinks on Phuket Island

Phuket Town

Bookhemian

Phuket Town is filled with cafes, many of which are thematically exaggerated and pricey by Western standards. This intellectual, laid-back indie cafe, located in a sprawling shophouse, shifts the focus back to Thailand. The locally sourced beans are well-crafted, and the baked goods are superb, a rare find in this area.

Full Moon Brewworks - Taproom & Grill @ Phuket Town

American microbrew culture has made its way to Thailand. This Phuket-based brewery features around seven taps, including beers infused with local flavors, such as the Bussaba, a weissbier brewed with ginger flowers. On a typical hot day in Phuket Town, indulge in a glass of Frozen Beer, whipped into a slushy, refreshing delight.

Good Vibes P-Town

Good Vibes P-Town is an open-air alley adorned with a few tables, run by welcoming locals. It offers a refreshing break from Phuket Town's overly themed cafes and kitschy cocktail bars. The owners prepare a selection of skewer-based snacks for a crowd that includes both locals and savvy travelers. Live music can be enjoyed occasionally.

Dibuk House

Nestled in an impressive heritage building in Phuket Town, this elegant, speakeasy-style bar serves meticulously crafted cocktails that are thoughtful and occasionally extravagant. Regular guest bartenders and special promotions ensure a unique experience with each visit.

Exploring the island

Beach Pig

If you're searching for a beach bar frequented by locals, Beach Pig is a top choice. Nestled on Bang Tao Beach on the island's western coast, it boasts a laid-back atmosphere that balances coolness, family-friendliness, comfort, and style. The menu features a mix of Western bar food and satisfying Thai dishes, along with a drink selection that elevates the typical Phuket beach shack offerings.

Chalong Bay Distillery

Chalong Bay is known for its captivating rums crafted from local sugarcane. You can schedule visits to the distillery in advance, and the on-site bar provides cocktail workshops alongside a menu of rum cocktails infused with Thai fruits and herbs.

Top food markets

Cham-Cha Market

Located at the outskirts of Phuket Town, this small market is one of the best spots to discover local dishes. Numerous stalls feature Chinese-influenced Phuket specialties like fresh spring rolls and fried noodles, while nearly half the market showcases vendors offering a diverse selection of local sweets and snacks, many of which are unique to this region of Thailand.

Phuket Town Market

Phuket Town’s main market is divided into two areas. The largely open-air section, located north of Thanon Ranong, features picturesque displays of pineapples, heaps of stink beans, and various other produce, alongside covered stalls offering Burmese goods and an eye-catching piece of street art by Thai artist Alex Face. To the south lies a two-story enclosed market filled with produce vendors, butchers, seafood sellers, dried goods, and a rustic food court in the basement.

The top hotels in and around Phuket Town

The Memory at On On Hotel

Established nearly a century ago, the On On Hotel made a brief appearance in the 2000 film The Beach as a budget accommodation — a reputation that was somewhat accurate at the time. However, a significant renovation in 2012 transformed it into a charming midrange choice, ideally situated in the heart of Phuket Town, just steps away from some of the island’s finest dining. Rooms start at $55 during peak season.

Sinae Phuket

For stunning ocean views without straying far from Phuket Town's incredible culinary scene, consider Sinae Phuket. Nestled on Cape Gecko, just under five miles from the town and half a mile from Siray Bay's beaches, the resort boasts spacious rooms and villas that cascade down a lush hillside. Room rates start at $220 during peak season.

Hotel Verdigris

Launched in 2022, Hotel Verdigris has introduced a new level of elegance and modernity to Phuket Town's hotel offerings, particularly among mid-range options. It features a pool—an uncommon luxury in Phuket—and is ideally located just outside the main tourist areas. Room rates start at $223 during peak season.

The Slate Phuket

The Slate's design reflects Phuket’s tin mining history, incorporating rustic wood, shades of blue, rust, steel, and southern Thai graphic elements. Situated on the island’s northwestern coast, the hotel offers a tranquil escape from the crowds while remaining close to the beach at Nai Yang. Rooms begin at $229 during high season.

Keemala Phuket

Nestled near Kamala Beach on Phuket’s western shore, this nature-inspired resort features villas, bungalows, and cottages scattered across a lush, hilly landscape. With outdoor showers and private pools, guests can immerse themselves in the jungle ambiance, and the two-story Tree Pool House options provide stunning views of the area. Rooms start at $527 during the high season.

Austin Bush is an American writer and photographer residing in Lisbon, Portugal. He spent over 20 years in Bangkok, Thailand, contributing to nearly every prominent food and travel publication and authoring more than 30 guidebooks for Lonely Planet. In 2018, he penned and photographed the James Beard Award finalist, The Food of Northern Thailand, and his upcoming book, The Food of Southern Thailand, will be released in 2024.