Dinogo’s Ultimate Guide to Goa, India’s Sunshine State

GoaGoa stands out as one of India’s top tourist spots. This southwestern state, divided into northern and southern districts along the Konkan coast, attracts millions of visitors from across India, eager to enjoy its vibrant nightlife and affordable drinks. Renowned as India’s Sunshine State, Goa is also a favorite among international tourists, drawn to its resorts, guesthouses, and beach shacks, all offering sun, sand, and a relaxed vibe known as susegado. Local dining options reflect this, with popular beaches like Candolim and Baga featuring North Indian cuisine like palak paneer and dal makhani, along with well-known restaurant chains and Western-style burgers. However, Goa’s rich and diverse culinary scene often remains hidden in these bustling areas.

Goans have a profound appreciation for their food, as seen in everyday dishes (like pickled fruits) and festive treats (such as the intricate 16-layer egg-and-coconut cakes enjoyed during Christmas). Locals blend recipes, ingredients, and cooking techniques from Portugal, South India, and beyond, crafting a culinary heritage that is frequently overlooked by travelers. Throughout Goa, you'll discover a vibrant array of breakfast spots, street food vendors, time-honored taverns, and modern resto bars, all of which proudly enrich Goa’s culinary story.

You can find ways to escape the tourist hotspots in the capital, Panjim (or Panaji), as well as in the coastal towns, islands, and rural villages. After just a few meals, you’ll understand why Goa is one of India’s most underrated culinary gems.

What can you expect from Goan cuisine?

Despite its small size, Goa boasts a rich culinary heritage shaped by centuries of changing rulers. Hindu royal families and Muslim dynasties governed Goa before the Portuguese arrived in 1510, who then colonized the region for approximately 450 years, leaving a lasting mark on local food traditions; many dishes and desserts still bear Portuguese names. Additionally, Goa served as a trading hub with Arab merchants and other territories of the Portuguese empire, including Japan, Indonesia, and Mozambique, introducing a variety of spices alongside textiles and other goods.

Goan cuisine primarily features locally sourced rice and seafood, including Bombay duck, mackerel, kingfish, pomfret, mussels, and prawns. The coconut palm plays a crucial role, providing palm jaggery, shredded coconut, vinegar (often used to add tanginess to dishes or in pickling), and coconut milk, which enriches stews like khatkhatem.

When it comes to meat, chicken, lamb, and beef are common at Goan festivities, but pork reigns supreme. While there's a perception that pork is frowned upon in many parts of India, the pig is vital to numerous Indian cuisines, including Goan, where every part of the fattened animal is utilized. The cuisine also celebrates the bountiful spring and summer harvests, featuring ingredients like cashews, mangoes, jackfruit, and kokum.

Essential terms for food enthusiasts

Pao and poee

If you ask any Goan, they'll tell you that local culture is intricately linked to pao (the Portuguese word for bread): fluffy, square rolls with a golden crust. The art of baking in Goa has a rich history that dates back to the mid-16th century. In her book Cozinha de Goa: History and Tradition of Goan Food, Fátima da Silva Gracias notes that Portuguese missionaries introduced European baking techniques to a coastal community in Majorda, southern Goa; this knowledge subsequently spread throughout the state and up the northwestern coast of India.

Traditionally, dough was fermented using sur (palm wine) for a light and airy texture, though most bakers now opt for yeast. Freshly baked pao pairs wonderfully with curry or an omelet. There are other varieties of bread too, such as the beloved poee, a hollow, leavened whole-wheat disc. In Goan villages, you can still spot a poder (breadman) on his bicycle, delivering warm pao and poee to each home.

Kokum

Kokum, a member of the mangosteen family, is a tropical fruit that grows wild in the forests along the Konkan coast. It serves as a popular souring agent in the region, with its sun-dried outer flesh often boiled to make refreshing drinks and cooling condiments.

Thali

The variety of dishes served in a lunch thali differs across India based on region, community, and social class. In Goa, a typical thali includes rice, a tangy coconut fish curry, vegetables, solkadhi (a refreshing drink made from coconut milk and kokum), and your choice of spicy fried fish or prawns. Some Goan thalis may also feature kismur (a condiment of coconut mixed with fish or dried prawns), pickles, and traditional sweets like bebinca (a layered cake).

Rava fry

You’ll frequently find fish rava fry or prawns rava fry on restaurant menus. This popular seafood preparation involves marinating the fish in chile powder, turmeric, and salt, then coating it with a light layer of rava (semolina) before shallow frying for a delightful crunch. Rava is also used to fry potatoes, okra, and eggplant.

Feni

Long before the Portuguese made their mark in Goa, locals were crafting feni, a clear and fragrant spirit originally made from the sap of coconut flowers. With the introduction of cashews by the Portuguese, many distillers began using cashew apples as their base. Today, feni is synonymous with Goa, having received a geographical indication (GI) tag, signifying its quality. It is typically enjoyed straight or with Limca (lemon-lime soda), but bars also mix it into inventive cocktails. Homegrown brands like Aani Ek offer artisanal feni infused with flavors like chili, lime, or honey and cinnamon.

Xacuti

Meats like chicken, beef, lamb, crabs, and chickpeas are slow-cooked in a xacuti-style curry. This labor-intensive dish features a blend of dried Kashmiri red chiles, poppy seeds, peppercorns, and coconut meat, along with various herbs and spices, all sautéed and ground into a rich, spicy gravy. Xacuti is typically served with rice, but any leftovers make a delicious topping for an egg omelet.

Recheado

Similar to the popular rava fry, recheado fish fry or recheado masala can be found on many Goan menus. This dish features a vibrant red spice mix made with Kashmiri red chiles and herbs, which is either stuffed inside the fish or used as a coating before it’s shallow-fried.

Sorpotel

A spicy, tangy, and vinegary curry that’s a staple along the Konkan coast, sorpotel is traditionally made with pork and various offal, including heart, liver, tongue, and blood. This dish is usually reserved for special occasions such as Christmas and weddings, served alongside sanna, which are soft, steamed rice-flour discs.

Top Dining Spots in Panjim, North Goa, and South Goa

Panjim

Confeitaria 31 de Janeiro

This charming Goan Portuguese bakery, established in 1930, is nestled in a narrow alley within the Fontainhas district of Panjim’s Latin Quarter, surrounded by colorful homes with red tiled roofs and inviting porches. Settle at one of the outdoor tables adorned with azulejo tiles that celebrate scenes from Goan life, and enjoy a prawn rissois (savory, prawn-filled half-moon pastry) along with other delights like Swiss rolls and chocolate-rum balls. Be sure to arrive early for the bebinca, Goa’s beloved layered pudding-like cake, which is rich, golden, and sweet, said to have originated from a nun’s recipe in the 17th century.

Cafe Tato

Since 1913, Tato has become a beloved spot for Goans seeking quick snacks, tea, and breakfast at its various locations. The menu features a variety of vegetarian bhajis, including sukhi (a dry potato dish), onion and tomato salad, mushrooms, and cowpeas. Each item is served with a choice of puri (deep-fried whole wheat bread), pao, or fluffy banana-wheat buns dusted with cumin, reminiscent of those found in Mangalore.

Kokni Kanteen

This charming little restaurant attracts Indian tourists from all over, filled with the melodies of Konkani songs. Be prepared to queue for the renowned lunchtime fish thali, featuring fried kingfish, mussels, dry prawns, and a delicately spiced fish curry, all served with rice and additional delights like solkadhi.

Bombil

Nestled in the heart of Panjim, Bombil pays homage to the quaint Mytouries that used to populate Goa. With its bright yellow walls, this no-frills spot offers dishes inspired by owner Joseph Dias’s childhood, particularly the simple meals prepared by his grandparents. Don’t miss favorites like semolina-crusted fried lepo (sole) or the daily lunch special, which includes white rice, mango pickles, bombil (dried Bombay duck), and sorak (a spiced coconut gravy known as 'spinster curry' for being meatless). The menu also includes kalchi kodi (day-old sorak served with hot pao and a fried egg) and more intricate offerings like a kingfish thali, reminiscent of Dias’s Sunday feasts as a child.

North Goa

The Local Table

Dining at the Local Table feels like catching up with old friends. The relaxed ambiance complements the warm hospitality from chef Gaurish Madgaonkar and his wife, who run the establishment with the help of their young daughter. The restaurant’s menu is a refreshing departure from the North Indian-style dhabas (roadside Mytouries) that cater to tourists along the bustling Candolim Beach Road. Be sure to try the rava-crusted silver pomfret, lightly fried over a low flame, or indulge in the crab xacuti. Pair your meal with a revitalizing glass of kokum soda.

Sabor Cafe

Once a quiet village filled with colonial-era homes, Assagao is now affectionately known as the Beverly Hills of Goa, boasting trendy cafes, luxury boutique hotels, and exquisite dining spots. For a budget-friendly option in this area, check out Sabor. Co-owned by Goan Jack Gerald, this charming cafe opened its doors in 2022, offering local snacks with modern flair (such as roasted pork sandwiches on poee). With its paneled windows and indigo walls, it evokes a slice of Portugal in Goa.

Aayi’s

While Brahmins throughout India are typically known for their strict vegetarianism, the coastal influences shine through in the fish dishes of Goa’s Saraswat Brahmin community. Though this cuisine is seldom found outside private homes, Shubhra Shankhwalker aims to share these flavors with a broader audience while honoring time-honored recipes from her heritage. Nestled in a farmhouse in North Goa, Aayi’s — meaning “mother’s” — offers an immersive, hyperlocal, multicourse menu. Shankhwalker sources handpicked ingredients from local markets and fishmongers to craft dishes like kalundarche hooman (pearl spot fish curry) and adsarache pole (tender coconut dosa with garlic chutney).

Susegad Anjuna

This fantastic little food truck in Mazal Waddo is just a 30-minute stroll from the iconic Anjuna beach. Everything served here is home-cooked, making it an ideal spot for a quick and budget-friendly evening snack. While there are various meat-stuffed poee available, the standout dish is undoubtedly the truck’s choris pao: poee filled with Goan pork sausage (originally inspired by Portuguese chouriço), delivering a spicy and tangy flavor profile with hints of vinegar.

Homemade Goan Fish Curry

Nestled along a quiet dirt road, away from the hustle of Anjuna, this modestly named restaurant buzzes with activity at lunchtime as patrons flock for the fish thali. Be sure to order the rava fry prawns, settle under the tin roof, and enjoy a meal alongside locals who cherish this hidden gem.

South Goa

Monte Carlo

For an authentic local dining experience, make your way to Monte Carlo. This family-run Mytoury in Betalbatim serves up Goan favorites like pork jeerem meerem, a spicy, tangy curry crafted with herbs such as cumin, peppercorn, turmeric, and green chili, enriched with tamarind syrup, tomatoes, and vinegar. Don’t miss the tora shiro, pickled mango slices that accompany the main dishes.

Mon Petit Frère

Tucked away in Colva, one of South Goa’s renowned beach spots, Mon Petit Frère is a charming open-air bakery and coffee shop boasting rustic decor. This delightful find is celebrated for its breakfasts and Sunday brunches, offering Western-style eggs, crepes, pancakes, and falafel burgers. Don't miss their house-made sourdough, chocolate almond banana muffins, cinnamon buns, and artisanal pasta. Swing by for coffee, but be sure to try the cult-favorite Basque cheesecake.

Ulhas

Ulhas is a street stall renowned for its ros omelet. You can choose between spicy chickpeas or chicken xacuti curry, poured over a fluffy omelet, garnished with chopped onions and coriander, and served with fresh pao and a lime wedge.

Kausar’s Biryani

Considered the best spot for biryani in Goa, Kausar’s serves homestyle chicken and mutton dum biryani, featuring layers of rice and meat slowly cooked in a large pot. In addition to biryani, the menu includes other favorites like butter chicken, Mangalorean chicken ghee roast marinated in spices, curry leaves, ghee, and jaggery, as well as desserts such as sheer khurma, a sweet vermicelli pudding traditionally prepared by Muslims during Eid.

Cavatina by Avinash Martins

At his Benaulim restaurant, acclaimed chef Avinash Martins showcases Goan cuisine with a modern flair, emphasizing local and seasonal ingredients. Don't miss the spanakopita featuring Goan tambdi bhaji (red amaranth) and cashew butter, or the toranja starter, a vibrant mix of local pomelo with onions, cilantro, cucumber, mint, dried Bombay duck, and a zesty dressing of chiles, tamarind, and jaggery.

Top drinking spots in Goa

Panjim

For The Record

As India’s pioneering vinyl bar, founded by audio engineer and jazz musician Buland Shukla, this Panjim hotspot features a carefully curated selection of craft cocktails crafted with local spirits like feni and seasonal ingredients such as amaranth. The bar also boasts an impressive food menu that highlights various fermentation techniques.

Joseph Bar

No visit to Goa is complete without a stop at this legendary spot, where the passage of time feels irrelevant. A favorite among locals, Joseph Bar features rustic decor and can seat around 15 patrons. Enjoy a draught beer and engage in conversation with Prabhakar Azagaokar—affectionately known as Gundu—the ever-cheerful bartender who can craft any drink you desire.

North Goa

Villa 259 Taproom & Cocktail Bar

This upscale taproom is located in a beautifully restored Portuguese home in Assagao. With numerous cozy corners, the bar and restaurant offer modern European cuisine and inventive cocktails named after Goa’s beloved tourist attractions. Live music can be enjoyed on weekends.

The Flying Goat

The Flying Goat offers not only excellent coffee and cocktails crafted from local ingredients, but also a tranquil atmosphere perfect for lounging with a vast selection of books. Lush houseplants, friendly dogs, and soothing music create a dreamy and intimate vibe, especially during the monsoon season.

South Goa

Patnem Chai Shop

As one of the oldest spots in South Goa for chao (Konkani for chai), Patnem Chai Shop is famous for its delicious samosas—crispy patties filled with spicy potatoes, peas, and meat. Adorned with images of Hindu goddesses against vintage pink walls, this beloved establishment is run by warm-hearted locals who happily host a blend of residents and travelers.

Feli Goa

A charming little bar that breathes new life into Goa's tavern culture with a modern flair, Feli is nestled in the picturesque village of Benaulim. The cocktails celebrate Goan heritage, featuring local ingredients such as coconut feni and mango. Additionally, this spot serves craft beers from Susegado, Goa’s pioneering microbrewery.

The best food tours and experiences in Goa

Make It Happen

This local tour company, Make It Happen, offers whisky distillery visits, feni and tapas tastings, and food trails through Goan towns, perfect for those wanting to dive into local flavors. Don't miss the Margao Food Trail, which showcases local markets, bread-making, and meals at a heritage restaurant. Tours begin at $30 per person.

Soul Travelling

Renowned as one of Goa’s premier tour operators, Soul Travelling excels with its tailored culinary tours that highlight diverse aspects of Goan cuisine, including home-cooked Saraswat Brahmin dishes. The Chorao Island tour is a highlight, allowing you to explore Goa’s largest island while cooking with local families. Tours start at $23 per person.

The Local Beat

Founded by Goan Mackinlay Barreto, Local Beat takes visitors beyond standard tourist routes to discover Goa’s quaint villages. Every tour features culinary experiences, highlighting local dishes based on the season, such as kelyachyo fodi (spicy, rava-fried banana) and urrak, the first distillation of cashew apple extract (the second distillation yields feni). Reach out to Local Beat for personalized tours and pricing details.

The best hotels in Goa for food lovers

Ahilya by the Sea

Comprising just nine elegantly appointed rooms across three villas, Ahilya by the Sea is nestled in a tranquil bay in Nerul, a picturesque North Goa village. Chef Jason Pereira is celebrated for his table d’hote fine dining, serving Indian and Goan specialties like rava fry prawn thali in a delightful atmosphere. With two pools shaded by frangipani trees, the stunning Arjun’s Tree House room, perched in a 200-year-old banyan, stands out. Room rates begin at $744 during peak season.

MansionHaus

This luxurious 300-year-old hotel in Anjuna, North Goa, features stylish white interiors, a communal courtyard, and a moonlit veranda. It's a culinary haven, hosting dinners with guest chefs from around the globe. While the menu frequently changes, it consistently highlights fresh, organic ingredients sourced from the Goan coast and nearby farms. Guests can also partake in exclusive cooking classes or personalized food and wine pairings with the chefs. Rates for doubles start at $230 during peak season.

Casa Menezes

Nestled in Batim, a charming village just outside Panjim that echoes the spirit of old Goa, Casa Menezes is a 300-year-old family home featuring four elegant suites. Guests can enjoy meals at the on-site rustic restro bar, adorned with teak furnishings, serving authentic Goan Portuguese dishes like sorpotel and spicy Konkani prawns, all complemented by feni. Suite rates begin at $85 during peak season.

Alila Diwa Goa

This luxurious 118-room Hyatt resort in South Goa features lofty corridors, tranquil reflective pools, and enchanting courtyards filled with mango trees, seamlessly integrated with the lush rice paddies. The hotel’s Spice Studio restaurant, nestled around a grand banyan tree, serves comforting dishes from India’s southwestern coast, including the Thalassery Kozhi Biryani, where rice and chicken are prepared separately and then layered in a large pot. Don't miss the Courtyard Bar's kokum-infused martinis. Room rates start at $200 during peak season.

Cabo Serai

Perched on a rocky cliff in Cabo de Rama, this 14-acre eco-resort offers stunning views of the Arabian Sea, making it a perfect retreat for relaxation with daily yoga and meditation sessions. The resort cultivates some of its ingredients in its organic garden and sources fish and grains locally to create seasonal menus. Enjoy alfresco dining, participate in wellness cooking experiences, or opt for private dining in the garden, featuring Goan and Indian cuisines, including herbal tisane made from garden herbs. Rooms start at $230 during the high season.

Zinara Rathnayake is a writer based in India and Sri Lanka with contributions to New York Times, BBC, CNN, Atlas Obscura, and others. Her writing predominantly covers travel, food, and culture.