Discover Iceland through its sagas
“Eigi skal höggva!” (Do not strike!) were the final words of Snorri Sturluson, saga writer and leader of the Sturlungar clan.
In 1241, amidst the turbulent Age of the Sturlungs – the bloodiest era in Iceland's history – rival clans vied for dominance. Snorri was killed in his home at Reykholt in Borgarfjörður by men loyal to Gissur Þorvaldsson of the Haukdælir clan. Just three years prior, Gissur had triumphed over the Sturlungar in the significant battle at Örlygsstaðabardagi.
Þórður kakali, a member of the Sturlungar clan, sought revenge, leading to Flóabardagi – Iceland’s sole naval battle in 1244 – followed by the Haugsnesbardagi (Battle of Haugsnes) in 1246, where nearly 100 men lost their lives.
In 1253, Gissur’s foes set his farm, Flugumýri, ablaze, but he managed to escape. A decade later, Iceland surrendered its independence to Norway, signaling the end of the Age of the Sturlungs and the Icelandic Commonwealth.
As you explore Iceland, take note of the place names. You may recognize some from the sagas, as this rich history surrounds you. In Skagafjörður, you'll find Örlygsstaðir, the site of Iceland's largest battle in 1238. Nearby in Sauðárkrókur, you can engage in this historical battle through augmented reality.
Continue reading to discover more Saga Age experiences in Iceland.
The Age of the Sturlungs
These violent events are chronicled in the Sturlunga saga, primarily unfolding in Skagafjörður in North Iceland.
In Sauðárkrókur, the capital of the region, the Icelandic civil war is reenacted at 1238 – The Battle of Iceland. Here, you can delve into 13th-century Iceland and participate in the Örlygsstaðabardagi – the largest battle in Iceland’s history – through augmented reality... see if you can alter the outcome.
Near Varmahlíð in Skagafjörður, Kakalaskáli features an exhibition dedicated to the Age of the Sturlungs, highlighting the tale of chieftain Þórður kakali from the Sturlungar clan. An outdoor installation commemorates the brutal Battle of Haugsnes.
In West Iceland, you can explore Snorrastofa in Reykholt, which offers an exhibition on the life and works of Snorri Sturluson. You’ll also find the original pool where Snorri enjoyed relaxing after a long day.
Iceland's breathtaking landscapes are even more remarkable when you know their stories © Dennis van de Water / ShutterstockSagaland
In 1241, while Snorri may have been silenced, his legacy endures. He chronicled the tales of Norse kings in Heimskringla and played a key role in preserving Norse mythology and poetry in Snorra-Edda. He is also believed to be the author of Egils saga, primarily set in West Iceland.
West Iceland is the birthplace of the nation's literary heritage, where most manuscripts were penned and numerous sagas took place. The Sturlunga saga recounts contemporary events, while the other sagas delve into much earlier histories. As we explore deeper, be prepared to journey back to the 9th and 10th centuries, when Iceland was first settled.
The settlers and the enslaved
At the Settlement Center in Borgarnes, discover the trials faced by the early Icelanders in an untouched land. Some sought wealth and freedom, while others were forcibly brought as slaves.
Among these was Þorgerður brák, an Irish woman “owned” by settlers Skallagrímur and his wife Bera. They established their home in Borg á Mýrum, near Borgarnes, and entrusted Þorgerður with the care of their son, Egill.
The Egils saga doesn't spend much time on Þorgerður or her bond with her foster son, but it does recount her attempt to protect Egill when Skallagrímur assaulted him. Instead, Skallagrímur unleashed his fury on her. Þorgerður fled into the sea, trying to swim away, but Skallagrímur hurled a rock at her – she never came back to the surface.
Egill later named his daughter Þorgerður. The waterway where Þorgerður brák met her end is now known as Brákarsund. Discover more about Egill Skallagrímsson’s adventurous, tumultuous, and tragic legacy at the Settlement Center.
Experience the sunset by the Sólfar (Sun Voyager) sculpture created by Jón Gunnar Árnason in Reykjavik © Andrij Vatsyk / ShutterstockVoyaging far and wide
Further west, in the fertile Dalir region, you'll find Eiríksstaðir, the home of Eiríkur rauði. Driven by conflicts, he left Iceland for the newly discovered land of Greenland, where he established two colonies.
Eiríkur’s son, Leifur heppni, ventured even further west, becoming the first European to set foot in North America around the year 1000 AD. Their adventures are chronicled in Eiríks saga rauða and Grænlendinga saga.
Today at Eiríksstaðir, a longhouse has been reconstructed based on archaeological evidence and historical texts. It serves as a living museum, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the Viking age through storytelling by the fire, as well as by trying on period clothing and using tools similar to those of the settlers. Nearby, Vínlandssetur celebrates the explorations of Leifur heppni and his crew.
Among Leifur’s crew was Guðríður Þorbjarnardóttir, renowned for traveling further than any other woman of her era. After her journeys to Greenland and North America, she returned to Iceland and converted to Christianity. In her later years, she undertook a pilgrimage to Rome. A memorial for Guðríður stands at Laugarbrekka, the farm where she grew up on Snæfellsnes.
Deadly love triangle
“To him I was worst whom I loved best,” replied Guðrún Ósvífursdóttir when asked which of her husbands she held most dear. Readers of Laxdæla saga are still pondering this enigma. The saga centers on a love triangle involving Guðrún and her foster brothers, Kjartan and Bolli. Given the saga's focus on a female protagonist, some scholars suggest that the author may have been a woman as well.
Guðrún resided at Laugar í Sælingsdal. The bath where she once relaxed has been rebuilt and is now open to visitors. As you immerse yourself in Guðrúnarlaug, allow your thoughts to drift back to the days when Guðrún enjoyed the pool alongside Kjartan and Bolli – and the tragic conclusion to their romance.
Embark on the scenic hike of Fimmvörðuháls Pass situated above Þórsmörk Valley in South Iceland © Henn Photography / Getty ImagesThe fairest of hillsides
“Fögur er hlíðin” (fair is the hillside) proclaimed Gunnar á Hlíðarenda as he gazed upon his home in Fljótshlíð, South Iceland. Though he was about to flee the country to escape his foes, he ultimately chose to remain and confront them head-on.
Gunnar shared a friendship with his neighbor Njáll from Njáls saga, who resided at Bergþórshvoll with his wife, Bergþóra. However, tensions brewed between her and Hallgerður, Gunnar’s wife, escalating conflicts that led to the burning of Bergþórshvoll and Gunnar's demise.
Njáls saga stands as the longest and most vibrant of the Icelandic sagas. In Hvolsvöllur, the area depicted in the tale, the Sögusetrið Saga Center is dedicated to exploring this captivating narrative and its key figures.
Njáls saga also inspired the creation of the remarkable 91.16m (299 ft) long Njálurefill tapestry, where locals and visitors embroidered scenes from the saga using traditional Viking Age techniques from 2013 to 2020. An exhibition space for the tapestry is currently being developed at the LAVA Centre in Hvolsvöllur. In Blönduós, North Iceland, a similar tapestry called the Vatnsdæla á refli is underway.
While in Reykjavík, don’t miss the Saga Museum, where you can encounter lifelike wax figures of various saga characters.
The National Museum and the Settlement Exhibition offer deeper understanding of the experiences of the early settlers.
Lastly, Þingvellir National Park is an essential stop in your journey through Iceland's history. It is here that Iceland’s parliament was established in 930 AD, and where saga characters resolved their conflicts.
Evaluation :
5/5