Discover the Black Entrepreneurs Shaping the Culinary Landscape of The Holy City

If there’s a location that truly represents an exceptional food destination, it’s Charleston. Known as The Holy City (fittingly named for its many stunning churches), it features fertile land, coastal treasures, and lengthy growing seasons, complemented by a cuisine rich in African, English, and French Huguenot influences.

Since its inception, resourceful Black chefs, both free and enslaved, have passed down culinary traditions through the ages. Inspired by trailblazers like Nat Fuller, an enslaved individual who ran one of Charleston’s most innovative and esteemed restaurants during the Civil War, today’s chefs create dining experiences that celebrate the legacies of their predecessors. We spoke with three of the brightest talents in gastronomy to delve deeper.

Chef Kevin Mitchell

Chef Kevin Mitchell first discovered his passion for cooking in his family kitchen, where he began by cleaning collard and mustard greens for his grandmother. These formative moments ignited a deep love for food and history, ultimately shaping him into the celebrated chef he is today.

Mitchell holds culinary arts degrees in occupational studies and management from the Culinary Institute of America, along with a master’s degree in Southern Studies from the University of Mississippi. His studies focused on Southern foodways, the preservation of regional ingredients, and the contributions of African Americans to culinary arts. He is also the first Black chef-instructor at the Culinary Institute of Charleston, a Nathalie Dupree Graduate Fellow of the Southern Foodways Alliance, and a 2020 South Carolina Chef Ambassador, where he promoted the conservation of Southern staples like Carolina Gold rice and Sea Island red peas.

Now recognized as a culinary scholar, this classically trained chef explores the culture and history of the global South, amplifying the voices of the African diaspora through food. “As a chef, I perceive food not merely as a physical act of cooking, but as a connection between the food and the individuals who cultivate and produce it,” Mitchell explains. “My mission is to reveal the stories of formerly enslaved cooks and chefs, as well as their successors.” Keep an eye out for his events in Charleston that combine exquisite cuisine with insights into local food culture.

Sommelier Femi Oyeridan

Before earning accolades as a sommelier, Femi Oyeridan was a DJ. Now, this self-proclaimed “music junkie” co-manages Graft Wine Shop & Bar, where every experience is complemented by an exceptional playlist.

Music inspired Oyeridan’s journey into the world of wine. At 20, he sought a position at Charleston Grill to connect with the legendary local musician Quentin Baxte. There, he found his mentor in former wine director Rick Rubel and completed the first three levels of the Court of Master Sommeliers within two years.

Eventually, he and fellow music enthusiast Miles White founded Graft, where they focus on making wine accessible. Alongside their wine bar featuring cheese plates and charcuterie, Graft also hosts tastings, pop-up events, and educational classes.

Oyeridan is a two-time national finalist in the Chaine des Rotisseurs Best Young Sommelier in America competition, made it onto Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s 2018 “40 Under 40” list, and received the title of Food & Wine Sommelier of the Year in 2019.

Chef Marcus Shell

Marcus Shell’s passion for cooking began in his childhood, guided by his mother. He graduated from Le Cordon Bleu in 2011. After moving to South Carolina, Shell spent a year as sous chef at 82 Queen before stepping into the role of executive chef at the renowned French brasserie 39 Rue de Jean. There, he combines technical expertise with creativity, adding a modern twist to classic dishes like coq au vin, roasted trout amandine, and duck confit croquettes, harmonizing traditional and contemporary culinary styles.

In January 2023, Shell was honored as a 2023 South Carolina Chef Ambassador. Launched in 2015, this Ambassador program celebrates exceptional chefs who embody the culinary culture of the state. The chef’s creative talents and unique personal style should also promote genuine South Carolina culinary experiences and encourage the use of locally sourced ingredients. Shell attributes his achievements to the privilege of working alongside remarkable leaders. “Ultimately, I’m just a person who gets up each day and gives it my all,” he shares. “The Ambassador program will further fuel my passion for learning and my aspiration to improve.”