Discover why Wagyumafia, a renowned Japanese steakhouse, is the go-to destination for celebrities, offering an extravagant $185 steak sandwich.

Hosting the likes of Twitter CEO Jack Dorsey, football legend David Beckham, and music sensation Ed Sheeran would leave any restaurateur beaming with pride.

For Hisato Hamada, the 42-year-old co-founder of Tokyo’s famous Wagyumafia, a restaurant brand renowned for its world-class Kobe beef, it's just another day at work—well, more like a month’s worth of hard work.

Beckham is such a loyal patron that he makes it a point to dine at Wagyumafia whenever he's in Hong Kong or Tokyo. He even had Hamada flown to Indonesia to cook for a private family gathering.

They’re in good company. Director Guy Ritchie and Russian DJ Zedd have also been spotted enjoying the exquisite offerings at Wagyumafia.

During the Rugby World Cup, the elite of the sport eagerly lined up to secure one of the coveted spots at Wagyumafia's restaurants for an unforgettable meal.

A lively, unforgettable evening – if you can snag a reservation.

In addition to their flagship location, Wagyumafia has an outpost in Hong Kong, with plans for a new opening in Manila, and more locations in the pipeline.

Wagyumafia owes its rise to a combination of vibrant Japanese restaurant hospitality, some of the world’s rarest and most expensive cuts of beef, and a savvy marketing strategy.

Securing a reservation at one of Wagyumafia’s five intimate restaurants is no easy feat, especially since three of them are exclusive to members. Memberships, available for 15,000 yen, can be purchased online while booking your table.

Don’t expect a quiet, romantic dinner for two when you arrive.

The atmosphere is electric, fueled by a soundtrack ranging from soulful beats and hip-hop to rock classics and pop hits, creating an environment where you’ll inevitably find yourself singing along.

An abundance of drink options – from champagne and beer to sake and highball cocktails – ensures that the party often stretches well into the night.

The charismatic Hamada is a big part of the appeal, a lively host who guides guests through the dishes and shares the fascinating story behind the exceptional Kobe beef.

The history behind Kobe beef

So, the big question remains: is the beef truly as exceptional as they say?

The Kobe beef served at Wagyumafia certainly has a rich and fascinating backstory.

The term 'wagyu,' which frequently appears on menus around the world, simply means 'Japanese cattle.' It includes four official breeds: Japanese black, Japanese brown, Japanese poll, and Japanese shorthorn.

Among these, the Japanese black is the most prevalent, with three distinct bloodlines. The Tajima cattle, a particularly prized line, have been bred in isolation deep in Japan’s mountains, preventing any cross-breeding with foreign breeds.

Today, only purebred Tajima cattle, raised, bred, and slaughtered in Japan’s Hyogo prefecture, are granted the prestigious Kobe beef title. Each year, only about 4,500 of these cattle are certified, with most of the beef staying within Japan, including for Wagyumafia’s offerings.

Space for grazing is limited in Japan, which, combined with the low-stress environment, helps the cattle develop the rich marbling of fat for which Kobe beef is renowned.

In general, the more marbling, the better. Marbled fat makes the meat tender and flavorful. While top-grade USDA beef contains around 6-8% marbling, the finest Kobe beef can have up to 25% marbled fat, delivering an unparalleled taste experience.

If this seems hard to wrap your head around, consider that Kobe beef cuts are typically smaller than their American counterparts, and their fat is primarily monounsaturated.

In terms of flavor, many describe the meat as having a subtle sweetness, with vanilla often cited as a key note. As for texture, it's so tender that you can almost cut it with just a fork.

The Kobe auction

A visit to the 101st Kobe beef auction – one of only two held in Japan – recently took place in a quiet mountain village, about an hour north of Kobe city, offering insight into why this beef is so highly valued.

The first thing you notice is the tranquility. The cattle are unusually quiet, with hardly any mooing, and the auction space is immaculate, free from the typical smells of a farmyard.

The cattle are raised almost exclusively by local farmers on small farms or in barns, with no more than 100-150 cows per operation, ensuring they are accustomed to human interaction. As they mature, they are fed a special diet of milk, milk supplements, corn, and proprietary feed blends.

Contrary to popular myths, these cows are never fed beer, massaged, or serenaded with classical music.

This Kobe auction, which has been held since 1909, is steeped in tradition. Inside the small amphitheater, three auctioneers in orange robes and red caps work at breakneck speed, managing bids from a room full of buyers who each hold a numbered paddle.

Staff at the front and back of the room flip through large ring-bound papers, displaying the numbers for bidders. One cow is sold to London's iconic department store Harrods, followed by a purchase from a buyer in Mexico, and then another goes to Wynn Las Vegas.

Charming details are everywhere. At each bidder's seat, there's a small carton of milk to mark the beginning of the two-hour auction process.

The local farmers, who have carefully raised the cattle for up to five years, stand at the front of the auction to thank the winning bidder with gifts, which can include orchids, fruit, or even a bottle of sake.

The competition intensifies as the most prized, champion-winning breeds are presented, draped in purple cloaks trimmed with gold, as they are paraded in front of the audience.

The real deal

At Wagyumafia in Tokyo's trendy Akasaka district, a small bronze statue of a Tajima cow serves as proof of the authenticity of their Kobe beef. Any restaurant serving genuine Kobe beef must be certified and display the official seal from the Kobe Beef Association.

This includes international locations. (If you think you’ve had authentic Kobe beef outside Japan before 2012, you’ve been mistaken – it was only in that year that Kobe beef was first exported.)

Hamada firmly believes in a nose-to-tail approach when serving the beef, ensuring that every part of the animal is utilized.

"Being a chef is about honoring and showing gratitude for the life of the animal," he says. "Nothing should go to waste when eating, as a way to respect the animal."

He shares that his preferred method of enjoying the beef is simply grilled over binchotan charcoal: "No salt, no pepper, no sauce. It doesn’t need any of that."

Hamada and his team prepare the beef in a variety of ways, from homemade beef jerky and sashimi to beef tail soup, and even tenderloin served with soy sauce aged for eight years.

Before frying, the meat is dipped in panko, a Japanese breadcrumb mixture made from five different types of bread. Milk bread is lightly toasted, and their signature steak sauce – crafted from ingredients like 20-year aged Kamebishi soy sauce and Fuji vinegar from Kyoto – is carefully applied to give a tangy contrast.

The final touch? The dramatic and Instagram-worthy presentation: the plate is presented toward you, with the server gazing intensely behind it.

Plans for expansion are underway.

As for the superstar celebrities who have become his close friends, Hamada simply remarks that they enjoy eating just like everyone else.

Hamada aims to open around 10 Wagyumafia locations globally, with the United States on his list. He’s certainly not lacking in opportunities, receiving two or three partnership inquiries every day.

This means that soon, Dorsey, Beckham, Sheeran, and many others – both famous and not – will have even more choices when they’re craving a bit of ‘sando’ action.