Discovering Bali's Secluded Charm? This New Resort Reveals the Island's Hidden Gems

The Dinogo Perspective

Bali is renowned for its array of luxury accommodations, each more extravagant than the last. However, when Buahan, a Banyan Tree Escape, opened its doors in June 2022, it sought to showcase a less traveled aspect of the island’s lush jungle core. Nestled in the village of Buahan, this resort is situated on a hillside, a 40-minute drive from the bustling, tourist-filled Ubud. Its biophilic architecture, featuring winding paths made from local stone, seamlessly blends with the vibrant greenery that transforms with the shifting light.

Banyan Tree acquired the 12-acre property nearly twenty years before commencing resort development. Recently, they crafted a sanctuary designed to integrate with and respect the neighboring communities. The hotel enlisted experts from Balinese architect Gede Kresna’s firm, Rumah Intaran, for a three-month study on sustainability and cultural conservation relevant to this region of the island, leading to a low-impact architectural approach. Additionally, the firm examined ways the resort could contribute positively to the village, resulting in a staffing model that prioritizes local hires and a commitment to sourcing from local farmers and small enterprises.

Who is it designed for?

This resort is exclusively for adults (minimum age: 18). Its hillside location caters to active guests who can manage steep steps and uneven ground. It's perfect for experienced Bali visitors looking for a respite from the hustle of Ubud, while eco-conscious food enthusiasts will savor the scrumptious dishes from the zero-waste kitchen and enjoy open-flame cooking classes. Nature lovers can swim beneath the spectacular 115-foot waterfall cascading down a rocky face into the river valley. Indulgent guests should treat themselves to the spa’s locally inspired pijat (massage) therapy, featuring a fragrant detox oil made from lemongrass and ginger. Solo travelers seeking companionship can join guided hiking or cycling adventures through the picturesque surroundings. With Banyan Tree’s open design, guests might encounter a few insects or geckos, but rest assured, they use an eco-friendly enzyme mist made from biodegradable, mostly repurposed ingredients sourced from Bali’s incense factories to deter pests.

The setting

While popular spots like Ubud, Canggu, Seminyak, and Sanur are well-known on Bali’s tourism map, the village of Buahan remains relatively undiscovered, even by many locals. Situated 12 miles from Taro, Buahan is accessible by a winding road that hugs a lush ravine, less than two hours from I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport. At an elevation of about 2,000 feet, the resort enjoys refreshing breezes. The grounds are home to cacao, mangosteen, and durian trees, a concealed waterfall flowing into the Ayung River ravine, and several waterways—all thoughtfully preserved during the hotel’s construction.

The accommodations

The 16 wooden-shingled bales, or villas, are perched above the stunning confluence of two rivers, all oriented westward towards seven often mist-covered green mountain peaks. Each open-plan villa spans an impressive 1,775 square feet and forgoes doors, windows, and walls to foster a connection with the surrounding nature. Privacy is abundant, thanks to sheer curtains and generous spacing between the bales. The floors are crafted from reclaimed wood, and large beds are adorned with mosquito netting.

My villa featured a personal dipping pool and a secluded gazebo. I relished a soak in the deep, hand-hammered copper bathtub while enjoying a Baligroni, a cocktail made with local arak liquor and the resort’s own bitters crafted from leftover spices. I felt deeply connected to the jungle’s symphony, which Balinese artist Made Wirata visually represented as a swirling design on the resort’s bathrobes, pool towels, and sarongs through cymatics—the visual depiction of sound waves.

The dining experience

A standout feature of staying at this Banyan Tree Escape is the Open Kitchen, a zero-waste restaurant nestled behind the cantilevered infinity pool, offering the same breathtaking mountain views as the bales. Here, Buahan-born chef Eka Sunarya channels his creativity into breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The menu is 70 percent plant-based, with minimal meat and a focus on gut-friendly fermented dishes that transform potential kitchen waste into culinary delights. Ninety percent of the main ingredients—such as poultry and coconut oil—are sourced from within a 43-mile radius on the island. The organic garden yields around 70 fruits, vegetables, and herbs, including ferns, turmeric, cacao, mint, and mangosteen, all nourished by used coconut husks that enrich the soil. While many luxury resorts in Bali shy away from local beef due to perceived quality issues, Sunarya elevates it by slow-cooking Bali-raised beef to perfect tenderness using his signature miso and dashi powders.

Don’t miss Sunarya’s five-course dinners, featuring a rotating array of pickled vegetables and mochi-like fermented sourdough flatbread served with moringa butter. A surprising banana flower dish mimics the texture of braised meat, while a refreshing watermelon tartare is complemented by pickled green peppercorns and cultured cashew cheese. An indulgent roasted jicama rests atop a passion fruit and peanut oil emulsion. Breakfast may include nasi jagung, a delightful sweet and savory rice and corn dish, paired with freshly harvested vegetables, warm baked bread, and tropical preserves like soursop.

Just above the Open Kitchen lies Botanist Bar, offering nearly a dozen house-made kombuchas along with craft cocktails inspired by Indonesian herbal tonics and healing elixirs. The bartenders are also developing a wine made from fermented native kepundung berries.

The team and service

Seventy percent of the attentive staff are locals, and they greeted me by name from the moment I arrived. By the end of my stay, they felt more like friends. In an open-air pavilion near the garden, a staff member humorously encouraged me to strike a large bamboo kul kul (a type of drum and bell) three times with gusto to announce my arrival. Beyond the team’s exceptional service, I cherished the personal stories they shared about their cultural backgrounds and childhood memories of Buahan.

Accessibility

As is common in hilly Bali, navigating the resort requires steps, making it less suitable for travelers with limited mobility. The stone pathways can be challenging, so be sure to wear sturdy footwear.

Exceptional service

Alongside its impressive zero-waste kitchen, Banyan Tree is nearing the goal of eliminating all single-use plastics from the property. Wildlife conservation is also a key focus: the resort has created owl habitats for the rare sewak jawa (barn owl). Wayan Wardika, a Balinese consultant from Taro, has spearheaded a firefly conservation initiative to rejuvenate this species, which has faced decline in recent decades. A firefly nursery was introduced in March 2023 beneath a series of bamboo arches. Guests can schedule guided tours to explore this conservation project.