Discovering Catalonia’s Vibrant Wine Legacy, One Sip at a Time

During my first visit to Spain, I was an enthusiastic exchange student living in Madrid. With a limited college budget, a bottle of wine felt like a treat, regardless of the variety. Fast forward decades, and my appreciation for fine wine has grown significantly. Over the past two years, I've been exploring French wines but have frequently overlooked the vast and often budget-friendly world of Spanish wines. So, I'm returning to the land of Rioja for a weeklong adventure through Catalonia, equipped with more knowledge and the same curiosity I had years ago.

The trip begins on a high note when my Delta flight attendant serves me a glass of 2012 Vivanco Rioja Crianza. This wine embodies everything I adore about Spanish Tempranillos: it’s fruit-forward, with hints of vanilla and spice, and it can often be found in U.S. stores for under $20. A few hours (and a few glasses) later, I arrive in Barcelona and check into the W Hotel near Barceloneta Beach. The sail-shaped structure features 473 rooms, each offering sweeping views of the Mediterranean, along with a rooftop bar that draws in as many locals for cocktails as it does hotel guests.

The following morning, my first destination is Raventós Codorníu, situated about an hour's drive from the city center. This winery holds a significant place in Spain’s winemaking history as the oldest producer of wine and cava in the country. In 1872, Josep Raventós Fatjó adopted the traditional French champagne method to create the first cava in Spain. Over 450 years later, the Raventós family continues to own the brand, while winemaker and technical director Bruno Colomer tends to the grapes that yield a variety of prestigious cavas available for shipping worldwide.

“Cava is a versatile beverage that complements a wide array of cuisines from diverse cultures. Its lively and refreshing nature counteracts the heaviness that some sparkling wines can bring,” Colomer explains. My favorite of the day is the Blanc de Blancs Reserve 2017 from the Ars Collecta collection, made from Chardonnay, Xarel·lo, and Parellada del Penedès grapes. Codorníu also produces Raimat wines, emphasizing sustainable farming practices and certified organic vineyards. I visit its vineyards in Lleida, about two hours' drive from Barcelona, where I sample a classic Albariño bursting with mango and nectarine flavors, alongside a Tempranillo with velvety tannins and hints of cocoa and spice—perfect for pairing with roasted turkey.

Last year, the wine estate launched Raimat Natura, a protected natural area featuring trails and over a hundred species of fauna as well as flora. Nearby, I check into Raymat Castle, a restored 12th-century structure managed by Elena de Carandini Raventós, who also leads the initiatives of the Raimat Lleida Community Foundation to support nonprofit organizations in the area. Some initiatives include a lab assisting startups in achieving environmental sustainability and an annual art festival showcasing gastronomy and local artists in Lleida. The castle rests on 7,413 acres of fully organic vineyards, providing a peaceful escape from Barcelona for the night.

The next day, the wine enthusiast in me is thrilled to visit Priorat, located about 80 miles southwest of Barcelona. This region, where vineyards rise to 2,400 feet, was once home to Carthusian monks from France who established a monastery and planted vineyards on its steep slate slopes. Today, Cellers Scala Dei—meaning “ladder to God”—is the oldest winery in Priorat, renowned for producing some of Spain's finest red varietals, including a Cartoixa blend of Garnacha and Cariñena that delights the palate with ripe tannins and rich, toasted black fruit flavors. I brought my reliable FlyWithWine suitcase, featuring removable inserts for transporting wine, which is now serving me well with six bottles making the trip home.

Back in Barcelona, I'm eager to explore what the city has to offer in terms of wine. I check into the Mercer Hotel, nestled in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter and just a short stroll from the main attractions. This 28-room boutique hotel delivers the intimate experience I seek in bustling cities, complete with a serene courtyard adorned with orange trees and a rooftop pool with shaded loungers—an oasis away from the crowds. A bottle of cava awaits me in my room, and the hotel’s concierge, Mauro Torres, guides me to some of the best tapas I've enjoyed in Spain, including Gourmet Sensei, where a tuna tataki and vegan roasted “chicken” croquettes with curry mayo pair beautifully with an Ilercavo.

On my final day in Barcelona, I make my way to ElDiset, a wine bar that my friend, a local resident, calls her favorite spot. I take a seat at an outdoor table, still a bit amazed that travel has reopened and allows me to indulge in my favorite activity: people watching. Here, ninety percent of the wine selection hails from Catalonia, and I choose a La Figaflor 2021 Garnacha, which has spent four months on the lees in the barrel. It's as vibrant and lively on the palate as the passersby, each immersed in their own little world.

Getting to Barcelona

Delta has recently introduced daily nonstop flights between Atlanta and Barcelona, with a travel time of about eight hours. Once at the airport, you can take the Renfe train or taxis from Josep Tarradellas Barcelona–El Prat Airport for a quick 30-minute ride into the heart of the city.

Tasting Information and Appointments

• Visit and experiences at Codorníu | Codorníu (codorniu.com)
• Visit Las Bodegas (raimat.com)
• Visit the cellar – Cellers Scala Dei (cellersdescaladei.com)
• Explore Raimat Natura