Discovering Indonesia's Hidden Islands on a Luxurious 12-Person Sailing Yacht

Surrounded by two majestic whale sharks, their enormous fins gracefully gliding through the turquoise waters as dawn broke, I found my bliss. Floating in snorkel gear in Indonesia’s Saleh Bay, I marveled at these gentle giants. They were voraciously feeding, drawn to the nutrient-rich waters during the new moon, and even with one reaching a staggering 25 feet, I felt a thrilling sense of wonder rather than fear as they swam close by.

As the first to dive in at sunrise, I lost track of time, captivated by the presence of these enigmatic creatures. An hour and a half later, I was gently reminded it was time to resurface. “Is this real life?” I mused quietly, reveling in my intimate encounter with these unique beings—part fish, part shark, their gills reminiscent of manta rays. I tried to imprint every detail of their markings and movements in my mind before boarding the Zodiac inflatable boat to return to Vela, the exceptionally elegant charter phinisi yacht where I was staying this April.

Swimming alongside these gentle giants was one of the most serene experiences I’ve ever had. This privilege is afforded by sailing on Vela, which accommodates just 12 guests and is supported by an attentive crew of 18, mostly Indonesian. Guests get to immerse themselves in breathtaking landscapes and enjoy intimate encounters with whale sharks, thanks to the fair compensation provided to local fishermen whose traditional bagan boats attract these magnificent creatures.

Experiencing life aboard a modern phinisi

In 2004, the late Patti Seery introduced a contemporary interpretation of the UNESCO-protected phinisi (also spelled pinisi) with the luxury yacht Silolona Sojourns. This vessel draws inspiration from early 1900s hybrid cargo boats traditionally built on Indonesia’s South Sulawesi island. Her son, Tresno Seery, designed Vela, a stunning 164-foot yacht that represents a new era of phinisis. Imagine headboards and throw pillows adorned with Hermès fabrics, vibrant original Indonesian art, and sustainably sourced teak decks. The attentive staff even misted my face with chilled cucumber water and offered refreshments like pineapple tepache or pandan iced tea each time I returned to the deck.

Deeply connected to its natural surroundings, Vela, which launched in July 2022, prioritizes environmental responsibility. The yacht employs desalination and advanced reverse osmosis to convert seawater into drinking water, releasing brine back into the ocean. Additionally, it features a marine-based air-conditioning system that cools the engine room with seawater, eliminating outdoor AC units that produce noise and hot air. Guests enjoy reef-safe SPF and eco-friendly toiletries, and to offset the timber used in constructing the yacht, the company has recently planted 2,000 hardwood trees in Kalimantan, where most of Vela's wood was sourced, in partnership with the nonprofit One Tree Planted.

The accommodations include an owner’s suite boasting a stunning 270-degree view from the bridge, a master suite featuring a spacious marble vanity, striking photography, and stylish upholstered bed, along with four cozy cabins below deck, each with porthole windows. Every room is exceptional, equipped with showers adorned with hand-glazed tile mosaics from Bali and naturally dyed kimono robes.

Dining options feature hearty breakfast spreads with a choice of eggs and à la carte selections, communal lunches, and exquisite multi-course dinners served at long wooden tables and plush banquettes. Chef Agus tailors his menus to guest preferences, showcasing a variety of cuisines, but my personal favorites were the Indonesian dishes. Highlights included fall-off-the-bone bebek betutu (roasted duck), sop buntut (oxtail soup), fish sate, and delicious corn fritters. I particularly enjoyed his inventive dessert of poached pear drizzled with rujak (a sorbet inspired by the sweet-and-spicy Indonesian street food fruit salad). Our tiki torch-lit beach barbecue featuring pork ribs and curry was unforgettable, along with Negronis and a delightfully refreshing cocktail we named the Komodo G&T, made with citrus, rosemary, and masui tree bark from Papua.

Discovering the hidden gems of the Indonesian archipelago

The exact number of islands in Indonesia is still debated, but estimates range between 17,000 and 18,500, many of which are reachable via Vela. The name ‘Vela’ refers to a constellation and means “shoreline” in Sanskrit.

“Indonesia boasts 3,000 kilometers of this,” cruise director Dean Noble enthused during one of my many moments of awe—I had embraced the leisurely pace of traveling by water, where simply gazing at prehistoric landscapes felt entirely appropriate.

Over the course of four nights and five days, I realized that one of the most enticing reasons for adventurous souls, wildlife enthusiasts, divers, and boat lovers to charter Vela is its commitment to venturing completely off the beaten path. No hotel in the world offers the experience of curling up in a plush duvet outdoors, surrounded by saltwater—on the expansive daybed on the aft deck—while drifting off under the Milky Way, with only the soothing sound of the breeze. I enjoyed this unique experience one special night, but whether inside or out, Vela gently rocked me to sleep like a baby. Each morning brought new wonders: one day, an active 6,394-foot Sangeang volcano, and another, the stars fading as the sun began to rise.

During the day, there were refreshing swims off pristine sandy beaches with glistening waters, as well as sweaty 700-step hikes up island peaks for panoramic views of Padar’s rugged bays. We observed the infamous yet seemingly lethargic Komodo dragons in the wild on the newly reopened Rinca island (which closed for renovations before COVID and reopened in April 2023) and took a dip in a hot, salty volcanic crater lake. I snorkeled between Gili Lawa Darat and Komodo islands, where the corals dazzled in hues of lavender, blush pink, and celadon.

A standout moment occurred as we navigated toward Karang Makasar, where Manta Point is located—an area within Komodo National Park renowned for its manta ray gatherings. The sky began to glow with the golden hues of sunset when we spotted the tips of manta ray wings breaking the surface. I plunged into the water and felt as if I had entered a slow-motion ballet of underwater elegance as I swam towards the 18-foot-wide creatures. A solitary hawksbill turtle and a sleek blacktip reef shark also made appearances, adding to the thrill of encountering such magnificent marine life in the Indian Ocean.

Perhaps that’s the enchantment of sailing on such an intimate vessel, where the fish far outnumber the guests.

On Vela, the suggested itineraries serve merely as a starting point. The company organizes trips from Sumbawa to Komodo, like the one I experienced, and through the ecologically rich Raja Ampat archipelago, as well as Alor and the Forgotten Islands, home to scalloped hammerheads, and the pristine diving location of the Malukus (Spice Islands). Each charter is tailored to the guests' preferences, whether they wish to get PADI certified with former Amanwana dive master Yoyok Hariawan, focus on specific wildlife (ranging from whale sharks to birds to orangutans), or delve deeper into the culture and communities of the islands.

The 2023 rate for chartering Vela is $12,000 per night with a minimum stay of four nights, covering all meals, snacks, non-alcoholic beverages, activities, and spa treatments for up to 12 guests (essentially, $1,000 per person per night if all six cabins are occupied).