Eric Kim: The Food Writer Transforming Korean American Identity

→ Order Now: $30, Korean American: Food That Tastes Like Home

On any given day, Eric Kim’s Instagram captivates 150,000 loyal followers, showcasing the talented food writer and recipe developer from the New York Times as he slices, sautés, and ferments in his Manhattan kitchen. He carefully documents his cooking techniques for his audience, demonstrating how to make white kimchi with kale and beets or recreate a perfect bowl of pasta al pomodoro inspired by a vacation in Lake Como. The unifying theme across his recipes is their delightful simplicity.

In his Easy Cookies-and-Cream Pavlova video, he humorously recalls, “Once, someone messaged me saying, ‘I wish your recipes were more difficult.’ I thought, ‘that’s not a common sentiment.’”

When Kim speaks on a Monday afternoon, he’s taking a pause between meetings at the New York Times, where he develops recipes and writes a monthly column. His prominent role makes him one of the most recognized Asian Americans in food media. Kim has been with the paper full-time for nearly a year, after writing his debut piece in 2020. Prior to this, he was a digital manager at the Food Network and a senior editor at Food 52, with his work also featured in Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, and the Washington Post. In his brief but productive time at the New York Times, he published a collection of essential Korean recipes (which he claims are the top 10 dishes he’d choose for life) and his first book Korean American: Food That Tastes Like Home.

While he shares recipes for classic American dishes like spinach lasagna casserole and chicken soup, Kim is primarily celebrated for his exploration of Korean cuisine. He delves into the impact of the Korean War on the nation's food culture through dishes like budae jjigae (army stew) and simplifies the art of making kimchi. His work is crafting a body of work that is uniquely his, embodying a very Korean American identity. Growing up in Atlanta has given Kim a distinctive lens through which to view Korean American cooking.

“It’s a unique blend,” Kim explains. “That’s essentially the premise of my book: to illustrate that there are myriad ways to prepare Korean food, and all of them are historically valid. Certain foods and culinary traditions emerge from [diasporic] experiences.”

Kim expresses satisfaction with his dream job, though it wasn’t the path he originally envisioned—he had spent years pursuing a career in academia to become a professor. Following a challenging dissertation defense at Columbia in 2015—focused on English Literature—he realized it was time for a change. “I was devastated since I’d aimed to be a professor since high school,” Kim recalls. “But I left that path and took an entry-level position at the Food Network in 2015, where I entered data for recipes. I had no clue there was a whole realm of award-winning food journalism awaiting me.”

In 2018, Kim began his journey as a food writer at Food52, where he authored the column “Table for One,” celebrating the joys of cooking for oneself—from Passover during lockdown to the nuances of dining alone. “I view that column as my training ground for food writing,” he reflects. “Writing is always a practice, and I feel I improve with each piece, which is incredibly thrilling.”

During the peak of the COVID-19 pandemic, he moved back to his parents’ home in Atlanta to focus on his cookbook (released in March 2022). Being surrounded by family while testing recipes deepened his appreciation for his unique upbringing. “I realized how much I had taken for granted living in such a Korean American environment. Even though I often felt like an outsider—I was a gay Korean Catholic in the South—I discovered while writing my Korean essentials package that Korean is actually the third most spoken language in Georgia.”

In his book, readers will discover comforting Korean recipes like Doenjang Jjiggae with Silken Tofu and Raw Zucchini (Kim admits his take on this traditional dish, made with fermented soybean paste, is not strictly traditional but is hearty and satisfying), alongside “TV Dinner” recipes (quick meals designed for couch dining) such as Maple-Candied Spam, where the beloved pork is baked with maple syrup until crispy and caramelized.

One of Kim’s favorites from his cookbook is the Weeknight Curry Rice with Eggplant, Spinach, and Lotus Root, a dish he whipped up on a whim in his NYC kitchen when craving something simple and quick. He later made it for his family, who loved it so much they insisted he include it in his book, even though it wasn’t initially on his list. “It’s a wonderfully comforting and satisfying meal that reminds me of my family,” he shares.

After the release of Korean American, Kim faced criticism from some Korean readers who felt his recipes lacked authenticity. He is quick to challenge the notion of an “authentic” Korean recipe. “There’s a significant responsibility that comes with writing about Korean cuisine for the New York Times,” he explains. “Labeling something as inauthentic effectively dismisses that person’s identity. The more Koreans write about Korean food, the broader our understanding of the cuisine can become.”

Kim aspires to achieve with his recipes and writing the introduction of fresh perspectives in a delicious (and hopefully approachable) manner. “I’ve always believed that writing holds power beyond mere aesthetics,” he asserts. “It can be profoundly political and transformative. Including a recipe at the end allows you to truly invite someone into your experience.”