Essential Insights Before Experiencing a Ryokan in Japan

My first encounter with a ryokan—a traditional Japanese inn—was roughly two decades ago. After relocating from the United Kingdom, I was living and working in northern Japan. My coworkers whisked me away for a weekend in the mountains, where I felt both excited and puzzled. Why were guests wandering around in their yukatas all day? Why were meal times so strictly scheduled? And why was my pillow so firm?

While I cherished the experience, I was surprised by how my initial assumption that a ryokan was just a hotel with some Japanese aesthetics was completely off. Ryokan are far more than that; they offer immersive cultural experiences steeped in centuries of tradition and etiquette. This is why I sought out historical rural ryokan as often as I could during my eight years in Japan.

Given that ryokan come with their unique traditions and codes of conduct, it’s beneficial for first-time visitors to familiarize themselves with a few key concepts before reserving their stay.

What exactly is a ryokan?

In its simplest terms, a ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn, but it’s much more than just a place to stay. Like some of the world's finest hotels, the premier ryokan attract visitors with their exquisite design, atmosphere, cuisine, and rich history. However, they differ in many significant ways, so it's wise to conduct some research beforehand to avoid any unwelcome surprises.

Naomi Mano, the president and CEO of Tokyo-based luxury travel company Luxurique, compares the experience of staying in a traditional Japanese ryokan to that of a bed-and-breakfast, but with a deep cultural element that might remind you of a castle hotel in other regions. “It evokes a similar ambiance,” she explains. “Many of these ryokan are several centuries old and preserve their traditions.”

One major distinction she points out is the strong emphasis on food at ryokan. “They have a long-standing tradition of being venues where travelers dine before resting for the night, often en route on their journeys or pilgrimages,” she states, warning against requesting a discount for skipping dinner. “Ryokan primarily serve as places to savor the cuisine, and using them merely as a place to sleep is considered poor etiquette.” It’s also important to remember that not all ryokan can accommodate specific dietary restrictions.

Tatami mat flooring, sliding panels, and futon bedding

Hatsuko Tsujimura, country manager for Japan at Abercrombie & Kent, mentions that for many visitors, staying in a traditional ryokan is a standout experience during their time in the country. “The understated, natural aesthetics and tranquil ambiance provide a peaceful and refreshing stay,” she notes. Prepare to find elegantly minimalist rooms featuring tatami straw mat floors, fusuma paper partitions, sliding doors, and low tables with cushions for floor seating.

If you choose a Japanese-style room, you can look forward to sleeping on a rollable futon mattress placed directly on the tatami mats. While the duvets are soft and inviting, pillows are commonly filled with sobagara—dried soba husks, which can feel firm, somewhat akin to crunchy beanbags. If you have allergies or specific pillow preferences, it’s advisable to inquire with your ryokan or travel agent ahead of time for possible alternatives.

Etiquette and tips

For first-time visitors, adhering to ryokan etiquette can take a little getting used to. Recently, a new wave of modern ryokan has emerged throughout Japan, blending cherished traditions with hotel-like services and amenities that are more relatable for international guests.

At traditional ryokan, it is customary to leave your shoes at the entrance, and they should never be worn indoors or on tatami mats. You’ll often see guests in yukata, cotton robes resembling kimono, whether they are having breakfast, heading to the baths, or—at certain onsen hot spring resorts—strolling around town. You are welcome to do the same. Donning a yukata is an integral part of the ryokan experience.

Japanese travelers often view ryokan as an escape from city life, seeing them as places to unwind and recharge. Consequently, a sense of calm and tranquility permeates these spaces. Whether you’re in your private room or a shared area, Tsujimura recommends speaking softly “to preserve the peaceful atmosphere.”

For many Japanese visitors, enjoying the baths at a ryokan is a highlight of the stay. These baths can be communal or private, filled with natural hot spring onsen water or enriched with health-promoting minerals, and constructed from cedar wood, natural stone, or tiles. It’s a distinct and deeply soothing experience, but bathing comes with its own strict set of rules.

While tipping is generally not practiced in Japan, ryokan stand as an exception. A dedicated nakai-san will be at your service throughout your stay, akin to a butler. “They will check you in and might prepare your bedding,” explains Mano. “The nakai-san will provide you with a folio containing paperwork to complete, which includes a small envelope where you’re encouraged to leave a tip—typically between 3,000 and 5,000 yen (about US$20 to US$33), depending on the ryokan’s class.”

Additional considerations to keep in mind

If you have tattoos, you may face challenges when it comes to enjoying the baths. “Many traditional ryokan still prohibit tattoos in their public, communal baths,” explains Tsujimura. “This stems from long-held stigmas linking tattoos to criminal organizations. However, some modern ryokans are beginning to relax these restrictions.” If you have tattoos, it’s advisable to check with your ryokan or travel provider beforehand. If your ryokan features a private bath, you should be fine.

Travelers with mobility challenges or back issues might find traditional Japanese rooms with futons and floor seating difficult. Fortunately, many ryokan throughout Japan now provide the option of futons alongside Western-style beds and elevated tables, offering greater comfort for those unaccustomed to sleeping or dining at ground level.

Seven ryokan options—from classic to contemporary—to experience

Gora Kadan

Nestled on the grounds of a former imperial summer retreat, the opulent Gora Kadan boasts stunning architecture, beautiful gardens, and 41 rooms blending Japanese and Western styles, with some featuring their own private outdoor baths. Starting at $1,268

Hoshinoya Tokyo

While its exterior may resemble a modern urban hotel, inside, Hoshinoya Tokyo presents a contemporary interpretation of a ryokan, featuring 84 stylish rooms adorned with tatami floors, elegant ikebana flower arrangements, and a stunning open-air outdoor bath. Starting at $281

Yoshida-Sanso

Set within an imperial residence from the 1930s, Yoshida-Sanso merges traditional Japanese architecture with art deco elements, offering views of Kyoto’s eastern mountains across four rooms and a separate guesthouse. From $820

Kayotei

The kaiseki dining experience at the inviting 10-room Kayotei is a significant attraction for returning guests, crafted with seasonal ingredients sourced from local farmers and artisans. Equally enticing are the onsen waters, best enjoyed in one of the outdoor rotenburo baths. Starting at $382

Houshi

The first visitors to Houshi came over 1,300 years ago to experience the healing properties of the onsen waters. Today, you can follow their path by staying in spacious suites with tatami floors and savoring seafood-focused kaiseki dinners. From $187

Notoya

Ginzan Onsen is particularly enchanting in winter when blanketed in snow, making it one of Japan's most beautiful spots to enjoy a traditional ryokan experience. Notoya, one of the oldest inns in the village, offers a perfect opportunity to immerse yourself in local traditions and customs while enjoying the healing waters. Starting at $170

Azumi Setoda

At Azumi Setoda, a 140-year-old family estate with 22 rooms, you’ll discover cozy beds, cypress bathtubs, and shoji screens. This is the inaugural property in the Azumi brand created by Adrian Zecha, founder of Aman Resorts. The menu features hyper-local cuisine prepared with French techniques, and just across the street is Yubune, the community bathhouse. From $450