Experience the charm of Dumfries and Galloway off-season: the beauty of Scotland without the crowds
Visit the Isle of Skye in August, and it may feel like the entire world has joined you there.
Much like Northern Scotland, its rugged landscapes, whisky distilleries, and windswept castles attract tourists in droves. Roads are packed with campervans, hotels fill up quickly, and the chances of encountering the Loch Ness monster are greater than finding a walk-in spot at a restaurant.
Imagine enjoying the same breathtaking highland, lowland, and coastal scenery, the same warm hospitality, and the same exquisite food and drink—but without the overwhelming crowds that can exceed Puerto Rico's population at every attraction.
Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland's southernmost region, offers just that. Travel during the off-season, and you can explore its nearly deserted trails and roads through hikes, drives, and bike rides. Here’s why you should visit.
Amy enjoys the tranquil sights and sounds of Galloway National Park, making some new friends along the way © Amy LynchAbsolutely stunning – even during the off-season
Nestled north of England's Lake District and overlooking the Isle of Man, the landscapes of Southwest Scotland are breathtaking, even beyond the summer months. In fall, as foliage transforms, you’ll witness vibrant bursts of orange, red, and yellow while cycling through Galloway Forest Park or hiking along the Southern Upland Way, a 214-mile trail stretching from Portpatrick on the west coast to Cockburnspath on the east.
The grounds of the 17th-century Castle Kennedy tower house are stunning throughout the year, while the summit of Merrick, the highest peak in Southern Scotland, often boasts a misty, snow-capped appearance in the off-season.
On clear nights, you can enjoy stunning views of the constellations above, visible even through the mist of your breath. Visit Galloway International Dark Sky Park, the fourth location globally recognized for its exceptional stargazing experiences.
Savoring Scotland's seafood treasures with a delicious salmon risotto and scallops at Henry's © Amy LynchThe cuisine is perfect for those chilly, brisk days
Scottish food and drink are hearty and comforting – ideal for cold weather. It goes beyond just single malts and haggis or fried dishes. The coastal region boasts excellent seafood, particularly shellfish and scallops. Stranraer bay is home to Scotland’s last wild and native oyster beds, and the annual Stranraer Oyster Festival is a highlight of the local calendar.
Scotland boasts a range of delightful specialty baked treats worth seeking out, including shortbread, bannocks (a type of flatbread), and tattie (potato) scones. Make sure to indulge in a traditional Scottish breakfast before you leave – featuring fried eggs, square sausage, crispy bacon, hearty black pudding, fluffy tattie scones, butter-laden toast, succulent mushrooms, grilled tomatoes, and a generous serving of baked beans. There’s nothing like it to fuel you on a chilly Scottish morning.
The luxurious Blackaddie House is conveniently accessible via public transport, with a nearby train station in Sanquhar © Amy LynchIt’s easily accessible by land, sea, and air
Another advantage of Dumfries and Galloway is its year-round accessibility. Direct ferries from Ireland make it easier for those looking to reduce their flying. Ferries from Belfast arrive at Cairnryan, which serves as a perfect launch point for discovering this southwestern region. The port is adjacent to Portpatrick, the starting point for the Southern Upland Way. Whether you're tackling the entire trail or just a section, don't miss the scenic route from Portpatrick to Stranraer.
Both Glasgow and Edinburgh feature international airports and are just a short drive away. Additionally, there are train and bus services connecting them to the rest of the UK, with the main Edinburgh to London train route stopping at Lockerbie. Railway stations can also be found in Annan, Dumfries, Gretna, Kirkconnel, Sanquhar, and Stranraer.
The grounds of the 17th-century tower house, Castle Kennedy, have a moody, misty charm during the off-season © Amy LynchDining options
In Dumfries and Galloway, you'll find vibrant inns, chic cafes, and refined restaurants offering high-quality dishes to energize your adventures. Henrys Bay House, located by Loch Ryan in Stranraer, is a seafood spot featuring two heated dining bubble-domes on the lawn, perfect for enjoying the view throughout the year. Savor their scallops served in a vermouth and mushroom sauce with mashed potatoes as the evening light settles over the bay.
For heartier meals, the Crown Hotel in Newton Stewart offers an excellent selection of quality pub dishes made with local ingredients, alongside a robust beer menu. Their steak and ale pie is particularly noteworthy, featuring a flaky crust, tender meat, and savory gravy—perfect for warming up after a day outside in the autumn chill. Notable mentions include Blackaddie House in Sanquhar and The Back Street in Dumfries.
Where to enjoy drinks
The Scottish Lowlands hosts some fantastic whisky distilleries, like the Annandale Distillery close to the English border. Additionally, Bladnoch Distillery, located south of Newton Stewart, produces several single malts on its expansive 50-acre estate, which has been part of the local landscape for nearly 200 years and offers tours.
For those looking for something beyond whisky, the new Dark Art Distillery in Kirkcudbright draws inspiration from Galloway Forest Park for its premium gins. They also provide tours that include tastings. In the area, you’ll find several cozy establishments, such as the Crown Hotel in Portpatrick, a warm and lively small pub, and Fig and Olive in Stranraer, known for its excellent coffee and freshly made sandwiches.
Where to stay
Dumfries and Galloway offers a wide range of accommodations to fit various budgets. For those seeking luxury, both Blackaddie House in Sanquhar and the North West Castle Hotel in Stranraer provide outstanding comfort and service. If you prefer a cozy inn, the Crown Hotel in Portpatrick is an excellent option, featuring a lively bar on the ground floor and well-furnished, quiet rooms above.
For outdoor enthusiasts who still appreciate home comforts, Gorsebank Glamping Village offers glamping pods, cabins, and bothies. They also provide bike and segway rentals, along with opportunities for coarse and trout fishing. If you’re hiking the Southern Upland Way, you’ll find several bothies (simple, free shelters in remote areas) available along the route.
Amy Lynch visited Scotland at the invitation of the South of Scotland Destination Alliance as part of the Scotland Starts Here campaign. Staff members at Dinogo Planet do not accept complimentary services in exchange for favorable coverage.
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