Explore the Latest U.S. National Park and Other West Virginia Treasures on This Unforgettable Road Trip

From my brief visits home to D.C., I discovered that West Virginia boasts incredible natural beauty—featuring numerous parks, including the nation’s latest national park, New River Gorge. This state presents a fascinating mix of coal mining and lush parks, bustling infrastructure and expansive open spaces.

After a three-day adventure along the state’s renowned rural routes in April, I felt like I had uncovered its hidden gems. Here’s how to navigate a road trip through West Virginia, focusing on three key natural attractions: Blackwater Falls in the north, Seneca Rocks in the center, and New River Gorge in the south. It's a journey you'll want to repeat—once you recover from the winding roads.

Day 1: Discover Blackwater Falls State Park

Travel time from Washington, D.C. to Blackwater Falls State Park: just over three hours

Blackwater Falls State Park, nestled in the northern region of West Virginia’s Allegheny Mountains, showcases the state’s abundant yet often overlooked outdoor treasures. It’s surprisingly tranquil here—very peaceful—despite the park’s namesake 57-foot waterfall being one of the most photographed locations in the state. Upon seeing the falls, you’ll quickly understand the origin of its name: the water takes on a blackish-amber hue due to the tannic acid from hemlock and red spruce needles that flow into it. The park features a small trail network and boasts the longest sledding hill on the East Coast. Be sure to take the short, steep path down to the falls for breathtaking views from well-kept observation decks.

Tip: The weather in this mountainous region, like much of the state, can be quite unpredictable. My trip in April coincided with the snowmelt.

Davis

Travel time from Blackwater Falls State Park: five minutes

After enjoying some fresh air in the park, make your way back to the nearby towns of Thomas and Davis. Often referred to together, like two siblings, these tiny towns are about three miles apart and just north of Blackwater Falls State Park. Davis, the smaller of the two, features a main street where you can grab post-hike snacks at Hellbender Burritos, which surprises with vegetarian options like the Goofy Foot—filled with soy sauce-grilled tofu and various veggies. You can also enjoy local craft brews at Stumptown Ales, a welcoming spot marked by a rainbow pride flag.

Thomas

Travel time from Davis: five minutes

Get back in your car and head to Thomas. Once a vibrant mining hub (complete with an Italian language newspaper), Thomas has transformed into a quirky artistic haven that attracts urbanites with its music scene and closeness to Blackwater Falls. The town boasts a lively assortment of pottery studios, galleries, a vintage shop, and a branch of the state's finest coffee shop, TipTop. However, the true gem here is the Purple Fiddle, a renowned honky-tonk music venue. Most nights, it features a variety of country, folk, and bluegrass performances, with ticket prices ranging from free to $30 based on the artist.

Accommodation: Blackwater Falls State Park Lodge

The midcentury lodge at Blackwater Falls State Park underwent complete renovations in 2022 and offers inviting, upgraded rooms that provide stunning views of the park. With only 54 rooms, the lodge allows you to immerse yourself in nature while enjoying the comfort of a proper bed. Its prime location is perfect for stargazing and, if you rise early enough, catching the sunrise over the falls.

Day 2: Explore Seneca Rocks

Travel time from Blackwater Falls to Seneca Rocks: 45 minutes

After a night of music at the Purple Fiddle, enjoy a hearty breakfast at the lodge’s Smokehouse Restaurant or grab coffee and a pastry to take along from TipTop before heading south to Seneca Rocks. This striking formation is a favorite among boulderers, and the North Fork River below the 900-foot cliffs is renowned among fly-fishers and photographers.

The 45-minute drive becomes increasingly winding as you head south (take your time to enjoy it). Breathtaking views accompany numerous churches at every turn. Park at the Seneca Rocks Discovery Center, which, like other visitor centers in the area, is modern and staffed by friendly, knowledgeable rangers (one even shared some sunscreen with me).

The Discovery Center offers some of the best views of the rocks, so be sure to stop for a quick photo and pick up a map while you’re there. For a great afternoon adventure, a 3.6-mile out-and-back hike features a steep ascent, rewarding you with views of Pendleton County’s valleys and the surrounding Monongahela National Forest.

Culinary options around Seneca Rocks are limited, so if you find yourself hungry after hiking, take a quick 10-minute drive south to the American restaurant Asbury’s, where you can enjoy bison burgers and beet and goat cheese salads.

Lewisburg

Travel time from Seneca Rocks to Lewisburg: 2.5 hours

After enjoying your meal at Asbury’s, it's time to hop back in the car for a nearly two-and-a-half-hour journey south to Lewisburg. Opt for the scenic yet winding Route 219 (the views along this route are worth stopping for). If you have the radio on or are using your phone for directions, you’ll likely notice when you pass through the town of Green Bank. The nearby Allegheny Mountains house the world’s largest radio telescope, the Robert C. Byrd Green Bank Telescope, which is hard to miss from the road. Since 1958, Green Bank has enforced strict “quiet zone” regulations, prohibiting cell phones, radios, and even microwaves to protect the telescope’s delicate operations.

About 45 minutes before reaching Lewisburg (and after regaining cell service), keep an eye out for a grand white house set back from the road. Turn into the driveway of this unexpected location, the birthplace of Pulitzer Prize-winning author Pearl S. Buck. Although she spent only a few months in this Hillsboro, West Virginia, home, the property is meticulously preserved and maintained by a docent who will happily give you a tour.

Continue your drive to Lewisburg, a charming town featuring a lovely main street filled with antique shops and cafés. At Lewisburg’s Stardust Cafe, enjoy farm-to-table delights in sandwiches and salads made with organic meats and vegetables. The farm-to-table movement has made a significant impact on the local dining scene, with standout options like the French Goat, where upscale French cuisine is served on white tablecloths in a historic residence.

Where to stay: The General Lewis Inn

The crown jewel of Lewisburg, the General Lewis Inn is a destination all on its own. In continuous operation since 1929, this inn was renovated in 2009 by a husband-and-wife duo with deep local ties. It maintains its historic allure while incorporating modern amenities, featuring rooms that blend antiques with contemporary designs and fresh flowers from the garden. Be sure to visit its stylish cocktail bar and restaurant, which offers innovative twists on southern classics such as hush puppies, fried okra, and cornbread biscuits served in charming miniature cast iron skillets. Don't miss the chance to have dinner—or at least a drink—on the porch.

Day 3: New River Gorge

Drive time from Lewisburg to New River Gorge: approximately 70 minutes

After enjoying breakfast at the inn or at local spots like the Wild Bean or Corn + Flour, it's time to say goodbye to Lewisburg and head south toward New River Gorge. As the newest national park, New River Gorge is accessible via a major highway, but taking the scenic country roads along Route 60 offers one of the most breathtaking drives in West Virginia. This route truly embodies the “Almost Heaven” slogan that John Denver famously associated with the state, cutting through landscapes that appear almost pristine, interrupted only by the occasional mine or wind turbine. Expect hairpin turns, but the stunning views are well worth it.

Make sure to stop at the park’s Canyon Rim Visitor Center, which provides a comprehensive overview of the New River landscape and its history. Here, you'll find a rich assortment of photographs and oral histories that depict the area during the mining boom when the New River Valley was vibrant with communities reliant on the gorge, mines, and the C&O railroad that once traversed the valley.

Even though New River Gorge was designated as a national park in 2020, the river itself is among the oldest in North America. Today, the park covers 70,000 acres and is a favorite among hikers, white-water rafters, and photographers seeking the perfect shot of the New River Gorge Bridge, an impressive engineering marvel that boasts the longest steel span in the Western Hemisphere.

From the visitor center, navigate the steep, winding one-way Fayette Station Road down to the base of the Gorge. Continue your journey until you reach the town of Thurmond. Once a bustling mining and railway hub filled with dry-goods stores, saloons, hotels, and a jeweler, Thurmond has now transformed into a ghost town rich in history. A self-guided walking tour will take you past the remnants of this once-vibrant center.

Where to stay: Adventures on the Gorge

While the New River Gorge area is stunning and offers a lot to explore, it primarily lacks traditional accommodations beyond rental homes and guesthouses. Adventures on the Gorge, known for its white-water rafting adventures, offers both cabin rentals and campsites. Most cabins are quite rustic and straightforward, but a few feature outdoor hot tubs—perfect for unwinding after a day of hiking and driving. Here, the focus is on enjoying the fresh, woodsy air and exceptional stargazing, rather than luxurious bedding. You can savor a sundowner at one of their on-site dining options or take a quick five-minute drive to Fayetteville for a meal.