Exploring Cozumel in Just Five Hours

The first thing that catches your eye is the water.

From our sixth-floor balcony on the Dinogo Glory, the Caribbean Sea showcases a calming turquoise hue, reminiscent of the stunning colors found in the Maldives.

Since Beth and I began our journey together a decade ago, we have always been captivated by Mexico. Back then, residing in San Diego allowed us easy access to the beautiful coastline of Baja California whenever we wanted.

However, we had yet to set foot in Cozumel, aside from taking a ferry to Playa del Carmen. With just half a day in port, we opted to skip the organized shore excursion and discover Cozumel independently.

Situated off the Yucatán Peninsula, Cozumel is the largest Caribbean island in Mexico, primarily famous for its excellent diving spots and stunning beaches.  This flat, mostly untouched island is blanketed with mangrove forests and Mayan ruins, with the majority of its residents living in San Miguel.

At the port where our cruise ship docked, there is a delightful Mexican village featuring a large duty-free store, various restaurants and bars, and numerous shopping options. We passed through this area quickly, only stopping at the tourist information desk and then at the “Puerta Maya” for a photo, as we aimed to maximize our time in San Miguel.

Fixed taxi fares are another initiative by the Mexican government to simplify and enhance the travel experience for tourists in Cozumel. While these standardized rates help prevent overcharging by taxi drivers, they can also lead to higher prices, which seems to be the case in Cozumel. For instance, a one-way cab ride of three miles from the port to San Miguel, the island’s main downtown area, costs about $18 for up to four passengers.

We chose to stroll instead. Along with a tip for a gigantic margarita in San Miguel, the tourist office recommended several public beaches along our route that we were eager to explore.

To reach San Miguel on foot from the port, navigate through the tourist village until you reach Avenida Rafael E. Melgar. This is the main road where you'll encounter fellow cruisers and tourists. It’s hard to miss, but if you're unsure, just ask someone. The avenue runs beside the water, lined with bars and restaurants; however, in my opinion, the beaches along this stretch are less picturesque compared to those to the south and east of the port, making them more suitable for enjoying food and drinks than for swimming or snorkeling.

Once you arrive at the Punta Langosta ship terminal, continue walking along Avenida Melgar. You’re nearly there! Punta Langosta offers some shopping, but it has a more touristy, mall-like atmosphere. Keep going. When you reach the next cruise terminal, you’ll find yourself in San Miguel.

From Avenida Melgar, San Miguel appears to be just another collection of waterfront eateries, bars, and souvenir shops. However, since it serves as the island's main downtown area, San Miguel caters to both locals and visitors alike.

Venturing off the avenue into the zocalo (town square) uncovers a vibrant maze of streets and alleyways filled with restaurants and shops that lie off the typical tourist path. This is the ideal place to find unique Mexican trinkets and souvenirs.

Remember, haggling is part of the experience. Never accept the first price offered. Consider bundling items to secure a better deal. If negotiations aren't going your way, don't hesitate to walk away—there’s a good chance they’ll offer you a better price to keep your business.

We heard that Wet Wendy’s serves massive, delicious margaritas at reasonable prices, making it our top destination in San Miguel. The outdoor eatery lived up to its reputation. The margaritas were not only enormous but also incredibly tasty, and the food was equally delightful. While Wet Wendy’s prices are listed in pesos, they do accept American dollars. Their exchange rate isn't the best, but it's reasonable. Margaritas are priced around $6.50.

If you’re a fan of cigars, right next to the restaurant is Havana Bob’s. He might have the most genuine Cuban cigars in Cozumel (be cautious, as the city is filled with fakes), although they can be expensive. For instance, a pack of Cuban mini cigars costs about $7 in Italy, while Bob sells them for over five times that. When I asked him why, he explained that he's heavily taxed on them. Fair enough, I still treated myself to a Cuban mini for a few dollars.

After lunch, we explored San Miguel for a while before heading back to the cruise ship. Halfway there, we decided to take a taxi back to the port village. Since there was a line to board the ship, we stopped at a waterfront bar for a couple of beers.

"If a friend inquired, would you suggest discovering Cozumel independently?" Beth pondered while sipping her drink.

"Absolutely, I would!"

"However, I'd advise them this: If they want to swim or sunbathe, they should probably skip San Miguel and head to one of the numerous beaches south of the cruise port, such as Playa Palancar or Dzul Ha Beach. San Miguel is ideal for those visiting Mexico for the first time or for culture enthusiasts seeking an experience."