Exploring the Musical Heritage of Washington, D.C.—From Jazz to Punk, Go-Go, and More

While Washington, D.C., stands as the heart of government, it is equally a city rich in musical tradition. "Every local will tell you that D.C. boasts an incredible music legacy," states Katie Kirkpatrick, who conducts various music-themed tours through her company Off the Mall Tours. Home to legends like Duke Ellington and Marvin Gaye, the city has birthed remarkable artists and cultivated influential musical movements, particularly in jazz, punk, and go-go, the city’s official sound. Explore this vibrant history through tours, museums, and essential landmarks.

Jazz

U Street in Northwest D.C. has long been a hub for nightlife and cultural entertainment. Kirkpatrick’s “Ellington to Langston, the Jazz Era in DC” tour highlights the legendary locations along this corridor, once known as Black Broadway. "When we reflect on the 1920s and the Black arts, we often think of Harlem and the Harlem Renaissance," Kirkpatrick explains. "However, many of those musicians first made their mark in D.C."

Historically, the U Street area was home to a vibrant African American community, largely due to its closeness to Howard University, one of the premier HBCUs (historically Black colleges and universities), established in 1867. This community nurtured jazz icons like Duke Ellington, who grew up just a stone's throw from U Street. "He had ample opportunities to develop his musical gifts," Kirkpatrick notes. Even after achieving fame at Harlem’s Cotton Club, Ellington frequently returned to perform in D.C. and opened his own venue there in the 1940s, now the site of the iconic 9:30 Club.

Notable D.C. musicians also include Jelly Roll Morton, recognized as the first jazz composer; singer-pianist Shirley Horn; and saxophonist Buck Hill, a mailman whose 70-foot mural in his postal uniform can be found at the corner of 14th & U Streets. Alongside jazz legends like Miles Davis and Billie Holiday—who often performed in D.C.—these artists graced clubs with enticing names such as Bohemian Caverns, Club Bali, and the Jungle Inn. "U Street served as a sanctuary for these performers," Kirkpatrick states. Historical markers indicate the locations of now-closed venues; the former Bohemian Caverns, at 11th and U Streets, still displays its name and a piano keyboard on the exterior, complete with a large 3D saxophone.

Historian and musician Ken Avis, a D.C. resident since 1996, frequently gives lectures at the Smithsonian about the city's popular music scene. His “U Street Music History Walking Tour” reveals the rich jazz heritage of the area. Along with remnants of former clubs, both Kirkpatrick’s and Avis’s tours spotlight the Howard Theatre, the crown jewel of Black Broadway. Opened in 1910, predating New York's Apollo Theater, the Howard was "the first theater in the USA built for Black artists and audiences," according to Avis. It continues to host outstanding performances by artists like Wyclef Jean, Keke Palmer, and Kendrick Lamar.

Following the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr. in 1968, protest riots ravaged U Street, leading much of the nightlife to migrate to Georgetown. Avis’s “Music City Georgetown” walking tour, launching this spring, will explore the neighborhood's music scene from the 1960s to the ’90s, showcasing jazz, blues, folk, rock, and more. The tour will conclude at Blues Alley, a D.C. institution. Established in 1965, this cozy venue is the oldest continuously operating jazz supper club in the United States, hosting legends like Dizzy Gillespie, Sarah Vaughan, and Charlie Byrd.

Punk

D.C. has a vibrant yet edgy side, vividly illustrated by its passionate punk subculture from the mid-’70s to the ’90s. Bands like the Teen Idles, Minor Threat, Fugazi, and Bad Brains voiced the frustrations of disillusioned youth during the Cold War and the conservative Reagan years. The city became particularly renowned for its distinctive style of hardcore punk, often labeled harDCore.

"Punk rock addresses the issues, while hardcore takes action against those issues," explains musician Jason Hamacher, drummer for the ’90s punk band Frodus. "It's more about making a difference."

Hamacher owns Lost Origins Gallery in the Mount Pleasant area, frequently showcasing exhibitions related to D.C. music. I've attended captivating events at the gallery, including Jim Saah’s punk concert photography and a display of memorabilia from the iconic recording studio Inner Ear; another exhibit, in collaboration with the Smithsonian, explored Fugazi's enduring impact.

Katie Kirkpatrick delves into this music genre through her “District of Punk” walking tour, highlighting punk sites in the Gallery Place area, including the location of d.c. space. This cherished arts venue embraced the unconventional and avant-garde from 1977 to 1991. "Its purpose was to support non-mainstream acts," says Kirkpatrick. Dave Grohl, who achieved global fame with Nirvana and the Foo Fighters, "began his journey at d.c. space in his teens," Kirkpatrick notes. "The D.C. punk scene is where he honed his musical skills."

Kirkpatrick’s tour concludes at the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial Library, which features both the D.C. Punk Archive and the Go-Go Archive. I recently visited the library to explore its vibrant exhibits on the fourth floor, displaying photos, band T-shirts, buttons, flyers, recording studio gear, and historical footage from punk and go-go concerts. For those seeking a more in-depth experience, requests can be made to examine the archives' carefully curated materials; I browsed through striking posters for shows at Black Cat and d.c. space, as well as homemade zines from the ’80s filled with heartfelt band critiques and youthful angst. Visitors can catch current punk and go-go bands performing live during the library’s free summer concert series on the rooftop.

Another iconic venue still hosting punk performances is Fort Reno Park in the Tenleytown area. Managed by the National Park Service, Fort Reno has been home to an outdoor summer music series for over 40 years, primarily featuring local punk bands. "If you've ever seen wild footage of Fugazi, it's mostly from Fort Reno," says Hamacher.

The D.C. Preservation League has created nearly 60 free self-guided tours of the city available on its D.C. Historic Sites app. The “Exploring D.C.’s Punk and Go-Go Scenes” tour offers historical insights on 15 locations significant to the evolution of these music genres, including the original 9:30 Club and Georgetown University’s bold student radio station.

Go-go

Few cities can claim to have birthed an entirely new music genre, but go-go undeniably originated in D.C. Chuck Brown, known as the godfather of go-go, crafted its unique beat in the 1970s, introducing this fresh sound in local venues. His hit single "Bustin’ Loose" with the Soul Searchers soared to the top of the R&B charts in 1979, and D.C. go-go group E.U. featured on the soundtrack of Spike Lee’s 1988 film School Daze. In 2020, the city council officially recognized go-go as the music of Washington, D.C.

A fusion of jazz, funk, hip-hop, and Afro-Latin rhythms, go-go is characterized by continuous percussion between sets that keeps audiences dancing throughout the night, along with interactive call-and-response routines that engage the crowd.

"What I love most about go-go is its sense of unity," says musician JusPaul. "The audience is part of the performance too." A dedicated D.C. native who "grew up immersed in go-go," JusPaul performs with his band, JusPaul and the Family, and teaches master classes on the genre worldwide. He offers private tours that explore both go-go and the history of D.C. and its Black communities. "Go-go is deeply rooted in political expression," he adds.

The tour begins in the Barry Farm neighborhood in Southeast D.C., a hub for civil rights activism and the birthplace of the Junkyard Band, a go-go group established by kids in 1980. Named for their use of buckets, soda cans, and other found items, this influential band was eventually signed by Def Jam Recordings. If schedules permit, JusPaul’s tours conclude at a go-go performance. He enjoys bringing guests to Air Lounge in the Adams Morgan area, where bands like Sirius Company and Top5 frequently perform on weekends.

Set to open in April, the new Go-Go Museum and Café will serve as an exceptional hub for the genre. Spanning 6,000 square feet in the historic Anacostia neighborhood, it aims to both preserve and evolve the art of go-go, exploring its Afro-Caribbean origins and cultural significance while offering a recording studio and performance spaces for artists. Additionally, a mobile pop-up museum will travel throughout the city, bringing music to schools and local communities.

"Go-go embodies the creative and resilient spirit of Washington, D.C.," stated Mayor Muriel Bowser during the museum’s groundbreaking event. "We must do everything possible to safeguard that culture."