Exploring the town where three faiths converge

With a rich history spanning 7,000 years, Tarsus is the birthplace of two key figures in Christianity and Islam. Not only does it hold great religious significance, but it also offers some of the finest hummus you’ll ever taste. Located in eastern Turkey, about 180 miles from the Syrian border, Tarsus blends history, faith, and food seamlessly.

Situated twelve miles inland from the Mediterranean and roughly 560 miles southeast of Istanbul, Tarsus was originally founded near the Cydnus River. Serving as the main trade route between the Taurus Mountains and the sea, the city flourished from as early as 1600-1180 BCE under Hittite rule. By 67 BCE, under Roman control, it became the capital of Cilicia Pedias, the fertile Cilician Plain, and thrived.

In ancient times, Tarsus was celebrated as a hub for education, philosophy, and prestigious universities. Atalay Dik, a local mariner and passionate historian of his town, frequently shares his knowledge with visitors at the family-owned Saint Paul Café and Restaurant. 'Even today, students travel from universities in Alexandria and Athens to pursue their Masters degrees here,' he explains.

Walking in the footsteps of St. Paul

One of the unique aspects of Tarsus is how the past remains present. 'Tarsus is a city where centuries-old mosques and churches stand side by side, offering a tangible testament to how Christianity and Islam have coexisted and influenced the city's vibrant cultural history,' says Jane Gundoğan, author of 'Mersin All Over,' the region's only English-language guidebook.

Walking in the footsteps of St. Paul is no mere fantasy – it's a real experience. Born as Saul around 4 BCE in Tarsus, he became one of the most influential figures in early Christianity, converting thousands to the faith.

Pilgrims can visit 'St. Paul's Church,' now known as the St. Paul Memorial Museum. Commissioned by the Orthodox community in 1850, it was built on the foundations of a much older religious site dating back to the 11th or 12th century. Although there has been no Christian community in Tarsus since the 1923 Greece-Turkey population exchange, the 2001 restoration revived its stunning frescoes. The artwork features Jesus at the center, flanked by the four evangelists – Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John – with angels soaring above the apses. The church's exterior displays an intricate design of stairs, repeating arches, and metal railings, creating an Escher-like effect.

From the lions' den to Tarsus

You may be familiar with the biblical tale of Daniel, who was cast into a den of lions for praying to God. According to the story, the lions did not harm him, which led King Darius of Babylon – who had reluctantly condemned him to the den – to acknowledge the power of the Jewish God. In the Turkish version of the story, Daniel is said to have died in Tarsus after traveling there in his later years to pray for rain during a severe drought.

Historical accounts suggest that after Tarsus was conquered by Ömer, an 11th-century caliph, a body was found wrapped in cloth decorated with gold thread. A ring bearing the image of a child standing between two lions was found on one of the fingers. Ömer interpreted this as evidence that the body was Daniel’s, and ordered the grave to be buried even deeper to keep it hidden. The tomb remained undisturbed until renovations took place in 2006.

While other countries also claim to be the resting place of Daniel, the site known as Danyal Peygamber Kabri is unique. It’s the only place where you access the tomb by walking through a 19th-century mosque, past the remnants of a 16th-century Ottoman bath, and crossing a bridge that once spanned a river.

The mosque is still active, so visitors are required to dress modestly in accordance with Islamic customs. This includes covering arms and legs, and women must also wear a headscarf (which can be borrowed if necessary). Inside the simple room believed to be Daniel's final resting place, it's common to see Muslim women kneeling in prayer beside a metal grille.

Mosques and markets

Not far from the tomb stands the imposing 16th-century Ulu Camii, Tarsus’ Grand Mosque, featuring a 33-foot minaret that also functions as a clock tower. The clock, added in the 19th century, was specially brought over from Europe.

Adjacent to the mosque is the Kırkkaşık Bedesten, also known as the '40 Spoons Bazaar' – a covered market originally built as an imaret (soup kitchen) in 1579. With seven domes overhead, the 21 rooms are bustling with activity, housing stores that sell blue Turkish 'evil eyes,' ceramics, shawls, and various other souvenirs.

The most popular souvenir here is inspired by a legendary love story. 'Kleopatra Iksiri' or 'Cleopatra’s Potion' is named after the Egyptian queen who met Roman commander Mark Antony in Tarsus in 41 BCE. 'Legend has it that Cleopatra possessed a magical elixir that kept her forever youthful,' says Gundoğan. 'Some say it was a concoction made from rare herbs found only in Tarsus, while others believe it was infused with divine magic.' This so-called Elixir of Youth is especially popular among domestic tourists of a certain age who hope it has the power to work wonders.

Just around the corner, in the Bilal Habeşi Mescidi, another kind of miracle occurred. Bilal ibn Rabah, born into slavery in Mecca, became one of the Prophet Mohammed's most trusted companions.

Persecuted for converting to Islam in 615 CE, Bilal was later freed and became the first muezzin in Islam – the one who calls the faithful to prayer. This modest mosque, built in his honor in the 7th century, is believed by Dik to be the site of Tarsus’ first Islamic call to prayer. While it is generally accepted that Bilal ibn Rabah recited the call here, there is some debate about whether it was the very first time. Despite the mosque's unassuming appearance, it’s awe-inspiring to think that this is where history was made.

Hummus and history

The hummus in Tarsus is as remarkable as its history – Gundoğan, for example, describes it as 'life-changing.' While you can find hummus at numerous restaurants in the city, those in the know head to the iconic Kervan Humus, where the humble dish is taken to another level. A plate of smooth, creamy hummus, served slightly warm, is topped with sizzling oil, fresh parsley, whole chickpeas, and a sprinkle of red pepper flakes. Feeling extra hungry? Add sucuk (spicy sausage), pastırma (cured meat), or even thin slices of steak for a truly indulgent meal.

After indulging in hummus, many visitors burn off the calories with a stroll through the Kızılmurat neighborhood. Past a stretch of Roman road uncovered by accident in 1993, the streets are lined with centuries-old Ottoman houses, many decorated with wooden beams, white plaster walls, and cumba – traditional windows that extend out from the upper floors. 'This area is special because the local government actively encourages the restoration of Ottoman houses to their original splendor,' says Gundoğan.

She recommends beginning at the House of St. Paul, the birthplace of the apostle. While the structure is no longer intact – it was reportedly dismantled by German soldiers during World War I, with only the foundations remaining, protected beneath glass in the courtyard – Gundoğan insists that it's still a meaningful pilgrimage site. 'It carries centuries of religious significance and provides insight into the life and teachings of one of Christianity’s most influential figures,' she says.

Gundoğan also suggests visiting St. Paul’s well, located within the same grounds. At first, the well may seem unremarkable, but scientific analysis confirms that it dates back to the Roman era, coinciding with Paul’s lifetime. Many believers claim the water here possesses healing properties.

A glass of homemade lemonade at Saint Paul Café and Restaurant in the heart of the old town may not have magical healing powers, but it’s certainly a refreshing treat. The café is set in a charming 180-year-old building, owned by Hikmet and Hasan Oğuzcan, cousins of Atalay Dik. The café retains much of its original charm, including embroidered cushions and Turkish coffee cups from the former owners. The cozy sitting room even features an unexpected addition – a shower tucked into one corner.

Tarsus is a city where diverse elements come together beautifully: Christianity and Islam, hummus and Ottoman architecture. There’s even a local museum, which is far from your typical dusty exhibit – it’s filled with fascinating archaeological treasures and engaging ethnographic displays depicting traditional local life.

Dik advises visitors to spend at least three days in the city to truly experience all it has to offer. And he certainly knows the city well.

‘I’ve explored nearly every corner of the New World, but I take immense pride in my hometown,’ he shares.

‘Whenever I return to Tarsus, I feel a sense of peace. It’s as if I can breathe in the culture and the deep respect for humanity more fully, surrounded by the ancient ruins and remnants of past civilizations all around the city,’ he reflects.