Glaciers, orcas, and stunning bays: A remarkable road trip through Alaska's Kenai Peninsula

Few locations offer such breathtaking maritime views just a short drive from a major international airport as the 16,000-square-mile Kenai Peninsula, which dangles from Southcentral Alaska's coast like a shimmering emerald pendant.

A favored stop for cruise ships, this sparsely developed area of evergreen-cloaked coastal mountains, deep icy fjords, and vast glaciers also marks the southern endpoint of the Alaska Railroad. Moreover, it represents the western edge of the state's—and the continent's—continuous road system. Fun fact: It's a 5,330-mile journey from Homer, the final town on this route, to the opposite end of the continent, Key West.

On the approximately 300-mile drive from Anchorage through this enchanting peninsula, you'll encounter quirky towns beloved by outdoor enthusiasts, artists, craft beer makers, chefs, and free spirits. Along the way, you can explore the wildlife-rich waters of Prince William Sound, Kenai Fjords National Park, and Kachemak Bay. While booking a local day cruise or kayak excursion is highly recommended to fully experience the region's waters, traveling by car is the most enjoyable way to journey from one point to another.

If time permits, consider extending your journey to include an adventure from Anchorage to Denali National Park and Fairbanks.

Planning your Kenai Peninsula road trip

You’ll find that no key locations on this itinerary are more than a two- or three-hour drive apart, with most situated along the Seward and Sterling highways. On maps, these roads are designated as Highway 1 and, for the brief section leading into the small city of Seward, Highway 9. However, locals prefer to refer to these routes by their names instead of numbers.

The roads leading to key towns and attractions on the Kenai Peninsula are well-kept and clearly marked, with gas stations available at regular intervals. Since cell service can be spotty in certain areas, it’s wise to download maps before hitting the road. Always be on the lookout for wildlife, as moose, bears, and other animals often cross these wooded paths.

Car rentals in Alaska can be expensive from late spring to early fall, with weekly round-trip rentals in Anchorage starting around $600. Make sure to give yourself ample time to reach Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport (ANC) for any flights. The drive from Homer can take as little as four and a half hours, but road work and bus traffic during peak season may cause delays. It's advisable to set aside at least six or seven hours to ensure you’re not rushed.

Independent travel versus guided tours

While several tour companies offer group excursions covering much of this itinerary—particularly in Seward, Whittier, Girdwood, and Anchorage—there are numerous advantages to exploring the Kenai Peninsula on your own. The costs for both options are fairly comparable, but an independent road trip provides greater flexibility, avoids crowds, and opens the door to unique and intimate hotels and dining experiences.

For additional insights, check out our Southcentral Alaska road trip guide, as many of the tour options for that region coincide with those available on the Kenai Peninsula.

Managing your time effectively

While you can technically drive from Anchorage to Homer in less than five hours, it's advisable to set aside at least four nights and five days to thoroughly explore the area at a leisurely pace. Plan to spend two of those nights in Homer, which is particularly abundant in activities and sights. Ideally, aim for a full week to fully experience the Kenai Peninsula.

Reaching Anchorage

This journey begins in Alaska's largest city, Anchorage, which hosts Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport. This airport provides connections to various North American hubs operated by major airlines, as well as several direct international flights.

Optimal months for visiting the Kenai Peninsula

Like much of Alaska's coastal areas, the prime time to visit the Kenai Peninsula is from late spring to early fall. Many businesses related to tourism — such as hotels, outfitters, and dining establishments — either close down or significantly reduce their hours during the off-season. Your chances of enjoying clear skies are also highest during these months.

Even in summer, be prepared for occasional rain and fog in the region. It's wise to pack layers, including a versatile jacket, a hat, and waterproof shoes. Summer also brings long daylight hours and pleasant temperatures, typically reaching the mid-60s in Homer and Seward.

Journey from Anchorage to Girdwood

Anchorage serves as a convenient starting and ending point for your journey, boasting a wealth of fascinating attractions, diverse dining options, cozy accommodations, and easily accessible hiking and outdoor activities. Check out our Southcentral Alaska road trip guide for tips on what to see, do, and where to stay in Anchorage.

The drive along the Seward Highway spans 40 miles from Anchorage to the quaint town of Girdwood, showcasing stunning views of the serene Turnagain Arm and the steep, rugged peaks of the Chugach Mountains.

During your drive, you'll find numerous scenic pullouts — with Beluga Point being the most frequented — where you can spot whales in July and August or watch surfers tackle the bore tide, the longest wave in the United States, which usually occurs twice daily after low tide. Notable hikes include the accessible boardwalks of the Potter Marsh bird sanctuary and the challenging yet rewarding 4.5-mile round-trip Bird Ridge trail, offering breathtaking views of the Chugach Mountains and Turnagain Arm.

Exercise extreme caution and avoid wandering onto the wet, muddy flats of Turnagain Arm during low tide. While the landscape may seem tranquil and inviting, the silty mud can trap individuals like quicksand. Tragically, several people have become ensnared and lost their lives in this area over the years.

Discovering Girdwood

As you approach the left turn for Girdwood, continue on Alyeska Highway for a few miles into the charming downtown area, featuring a selection of shops and cafes, including the renowned Double Musky Inn, a refined yet welcoming restaurant known for its New Orleans-style dishes. Once a gold-mining town founded in the 1890s, Girdwood is now more famous for the Alyeska Resort, a sprawling mountain property that boasts one of the state's most luxurious hotels and offers a wide range of recreational activities. You can hike or ride the aerial tram to Alaska's premier ski area, which receives nearly 700 inches of snow each year and is famous for its challenging slopes. In summer, enjoy mountain biking, hiking, and traversing two sky bridges soaring 2,500 feet high.

At the tram's base, the elegantly tranquil Alyeska Nordic Spa, which opened in 2022, is a perfect spot to unwind for a few hours. Immerse yourself in a serene hydrotherapy circuit that features cold plunge pools, wooden hot tubs, saunas, and steam rooms. A variety of massage and body treatments are also on offer, complemented by a casually elegant restaurant serving health-conscious spa cuisine. For an extraordinary dining experience, make sure to book a table well in advance at Seven Glaciers, which provides a multi-course meal using local ingredients in a glass-enclosed dining area atop the tram.

Accommodations in Girdwood

In Girdwood, the Alyeska Resort offers eight floors of tastefully designed rooms, starting at $459 per night, and provides convenient access to the great outdoors. For a cozier and more tranquil experience in the heart of town, consider Carriage House Accommodations, where rates begin at $190 per night. This option features three charmingly rustic rooms in the main lodge and three family-friendly cottages. A hearty breakfast is included, and guests can relax in the covered outdoor hot tub to unwind after a day of exploration.

Traveling from Girdwood to Seward

Approximately 10 miles south of Girdwood along Seward Highway, take an hour to visit the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, a 200-acre sanctuary featuring expansive natural enclosures for injured or orphaned animals that cannot return to the wild. Here, you can see nearly every major mammal species native to the state, including musk oxen, brown and black bears, moose, and reindeer. You can stroll or drive along paths that bring you close to the enclosures, and there’s also a central area near the gift shop with smaller enclosures housing eagles, owls, porcupines, and lynx.

Consider a detour to Whittier

Just beyond the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, take a left onto Portage Glacier Road toward Whittier. About six miles later, you'll encounter the shores of the strikingly blue Portage Lake and a side road leading to the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center. Here, you can explore exhibits detailing the vast Portage Glacier at the lake's end, which has receded from view due to climate change. You can still catch stunning views of the glacier and, at times, witness large chunks of ice calving into the lake by taking a one-hour cruise on the 80-foot Ptarmigan.

To access Whittier, you must coordinate your travel with the schedule of the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, a 2.5-mile-long passage beneath the towering 4,100-foot Maynard Mountain, which holds the title of the longest combined vehicle-train tunnel in North America. When heading east to Whittier, the tunnel opens for vehicles for 15 minutes every hour on the half-hour (the toll is $13, payable in cash or by credit card). If you're traveling westbound, the tunnel opens every hour on the hour. Expect heavier traffic during the summer, so it's advisable to arrive about half an hour prior to your planned crossing.

After exiting the tunnel, you'll find yourself in this quaint town nestled amid the Chugach Mountains and the slender Passage Canal, an extension of the expansive Prince William Sound (almost half the size of Lake Michigan). Along with Seward, Whittier serves as one of the region's primary cruise ship ports. Before the tunnel opened to vehicles in 2000, access was only possible by train or boat. Established as a military transport center during World War II, Whittier's functional mid-century architecture may not win design awards, but it serves as an excellent launch point for maritime explorations. Friendly and knowledgeable guides at Alaska Sea Kayakers offer intriguing paddles to a black-legged kittiwake rookery and along the impressive waterfalls and hidden coves of Passage Canal, while Phillips Cruises & Tours provides unforgettable half-day glacier-viewing trips around Prince William Sound on high-speed catamarans.

Journeying towards Seward

Once you're back on the primary route, continue along the Seward Highway, circling the southern edge of Turnagain Arm. Don’t forget to pause at the viewpoint to capture a selfie with the large wooden Welcome to Alaska's Kenai Peninsula sign. The Seward Highway then ascends over the 900-foot Turnagain Pass before descending into the rugged landscapes of Chugach National Forest.

As you enter a deep valley at the sparkling Tern Lake, veer left to stay on the spur of the Seward Highway (marked as Highway 9 on maps). This final 40-mile segment to Seward presents breathtaking views as it winds over Moose Pass and along the banks of several shimmering bodies of water, including the southern edge of the boomerang-shaped Kenai Lake.

Discovering Seward

Seward lies at the head of the narrow Resurrection Bay, bordered by lush green peaks. The west side of the bay is part of Kenai Fjords National Park. As you enter the town, the road first leads past a small airport and then the Seward Cruise Ship Terminal.

From the nearby marina, several companies provide half- and full-day wildlife-viewing cruises, which are the best way to explore the coastal areas of Kenai Fjords National Park. One reputable option is Major Marine Tours, known for its narrated 6- to 8.5-hour excursions on a sleek catamaran that showcase the sea lion colonies on the rocky Chiswell Islands and the impressive Aialik Glacier. On these narrated trips, you can typically spot playful orcas and humpback whales, as well as sea otters, mountain goats, Dall's porpoises, puffins, eagles, and many other birds.

Just a few miles south from the marina is Seward's quaint yet vibrant downtown, filled with galleries, gift shops, and eateries. For a delicious meal, try Resurrect Art Coffee House or Seward Brewing Company. A highlight of the area is the Alaska SeaLife Center, a nonprofit marine mammal rehabilitation facility located at the bay's edge. It serves as both an informative environmental science museum and an engaging public aquarium, offering close encounters with local seabirds and marine mammals while highlighting the region's vital ocean ecology.

Another significant attraction in the town is Exit Glacier, a valley glacier within Kenai Fjords National Park that is retreating quickly, like many others. Not long ago, visitors could walk just a short distance from the parking lot at Exit Glacier Nature Center, located a 20-minute drive from downtown Seward, to stand at the glacier's base. Nowadays, you must hike approximately half a mile along a well-marked trail to reach a viewing area that provides a decent, though increasingly distant, view of the glacier.

To experience a more breathtaking view of the park's icy giants, dedicate about six hours for the 8.6-mile round-trip hike to the expansive 700-square-mile Harding Icefield, which feeds all 38 of the park's glaciers. You should be in decent shape to tackle the 3,100-foot elevation gain, but the stunning sights of massive glaciers and thundering waterfalls make the trek worthwhile at every turn.

Accommodation options in Seward

Located just north of downtown Seward, the Harbor 360 Hotel (rates starting at $379 per night) is a brightly decorated three-story establishment offering breathtaking views of the bay — be sure to request a waterfront room with a balcony. This hotel is an excellent choice for planning a Kenai Fjords cruise with Major Marine Tours, as boats leave directly from the hotel's pier. The upscale Hotel Edgewater (rates starting at $260 per night) boasts a prime location in the heart of Seward, mere steps from restaurants and the Alaska SeaLife Center. Many of its 75 rooms feature balconies with views of Resurrection Bay, although these premium accommodations come at a higher price.

Traveling from Seward to Homer

The drive from Seward to Homer takes about three and a half hours if you go straight through, but there are several interesting sights along the way. Begin by heading north on Seward Highway back to Tern Lake, then make a left onto Sterling Highway to venture into the southwestern part of the peninsula. If time allows and you're up for an adventure, consider adding an overnight stay for a rafting or salmon-fishing trip on the Kenai River. Cooper Landing boasts some charming wildlife lodges, while the peninsula's main area, encompassing Sterling, Soldotna, and Kenai, offers various motels and guesthouses.

Exploring Soldotna and Kenai

While the primary reason to stop here is for gas and groceries, if you have the time, a 12-mile detour to Kenai's Old Town is worthwhile. This area overlooks where the Kenai River flows into Cook Inlet and features the Holy Assumption Russian Orthodox Church, a magnificent structure with ornate blue onion domes that dates back to 1896, reflecting the area's rich Russian heritage. Dining options are available, including Flats Bistro in Kenai, as well as Addie Camp and St. Elias Brewing in Soldotna.

Ninilchik

The last scenic 75-mile stretch of Sterling Highway from Soldotna to Homer reveals beautiful views as Cook Inlet and the distant volcanic peaks emerge on the horizon. There are several great spots for photographs along the route. In Ninilchik, follow the sign for the Transfiguration of Our Lord Church. A short drive down this dirt road leads you to a charming wooden church adorned with a green roof, golden onion domes, a white picket fence, and a wildflower-filled cemetery. Keep an eye out for bald eagles soaring above; a vigilant mother eagle often builds a large nest for her chicks in a nearby tree visible just east of the cemetery.

Anchor Point

About 20 miles to the south, follow the signs from Sterling Highway for approximately 2 miles west to reach Anchor River State Recreation Area. At the end of the road, you can observe anglers casting for steelhead and salmon while enjoying stunning views that stretch 40 miles across Cook Inlet towards the volcanic peaks of Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. Geography enthusiasts should visit Halibut Point Campground to capture a photo of the sign indicating you're at the westernmost point of North America's highway system.

Where to stay between Seward and Homer

To break up your journey between Seward and Homer, the Kenai Princess Wilderness Lodge (rates starting at $269 per night) is hard to surpass, featuring a cabin-style design with steep red roofs and magnificent mountain views. Nestled along the Kenai River, this 86-room lodge primarily caters to group tours but also offers fantastic rafting, kayaking, and float trips, alongside an excellent bar and restaurant.

Exploring Homer

Homer, with its population of just over 6,100, is a hidden gem on Kachemak Bay, renowned for its thriving art and culinary scenes. It serves as a lively center for outdoor activities and commercial fishing, and thanks to the limited number of cruise ships visiting, it remains less crowded compared to Seward and Whittier. Exceptional sea-to-table restaurants like the Pacific Rim-inspired Kannery, the charmingly romantic Fresh Catch Cafe, and the casual seafood-bowl spot Johnny's Corner offer some of the best dining experiences in the state.

As you drive down Sterling Highway into town, make sure to capture a photo at Homer Baycrest Overlook for a sweeping view of Homer Spit, a narrow 1,500-foot-wide stretch of sand and gravel extending 4.5 miles into the bay, hosting excellent art galleries, restaurants, and companies offering fishing, water taxi, and wildlife-watching services.

Before venturing onto the spit, visit the free Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center, which features extensive exhibits on the human and natural history of this expansive preserve, reaching as far as the Aleutian Islands and home to around 80% of North America's seabird population. It's conveniently located next to Homer's charming Old Town, where you can enjoy lunch at the cozy Wild Honey Bistro (known for its delightful crepes) or Two Sisters Bakery.

Another enjoyable option is to extend your road trip slightly by taking a picturesque 22-mile detour along Skyline Drive through the lush highlands that rise above the north shore of Kachemak Bay. Be sure to stop for a hike amidst the wildflowers at Eveline State Recreation Site.

Homer serves as a gateway for numerous quintessential Alaskan adventures, ranging from charter sport-fishing trips for salmon and halibut to sea kayaking and glacier hikes in Kachemak Bay State Park. You can also embark on flightseeing excursions to Katmai and Lake Clark national parks. For instance, Emerald Air Service provides full-day trips to witness the abundant bear population at the famous Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park. Alternatively, for a bird's-eye view of Kachemak Bay and its surrounding glaciers, consider booking a tour with Alaska Helicopter Tours, which typically includes a landing for a closer inspection of the breathtaking landscape. On the other hand, a trip with the well-regarded True North Kayak Adventures lets you paddle around the stunning Halibut Cove.

Where to stay in Homer

The budget-friendly Bay Avenue Inn (starting at $190 per night) offers seven cozy rooms with views of Kachemak Bay and Homer Spit, situated in a peaceful residential area. Guests enjoy friendly, knowledgeable staff, complimentary breakfast, and welcoming common areas both indoors and outdoors. Located in the charming Old Town, the Driftwood Inn & Suites (starting at $145 per night) features a variety of accommodations, all casually yet comfortably styled, including economical rooms in the historic inn, several cottages and lodges ideal for groups and extended stays, plus an RV park. (Note that the least expensive rooms share bathrooms.)

Exclusive wilderness retreats throughout Kachemak Bay can be reached via water taxi, floatplane, or helicopter. These properties usually offer all-inclusive packages (covering meals and activities) and require a minimum stay of three nights, providing a luxurious experience in a stunningly remote location at the conclusion of your road trip. Options include Kachemak Bay Wilderness Lodge (starting at $7,000 per person for five nights) and Tutka Bay Lodge (starting at $8,900 per person for three nights).