He served in Iraq with the US Army. Today, he’s a renowned chef in Asia and a judge on Netflix’s ‘Culinary Class Wars’

From the battlefields of Iraq to a Michelin-starred restaurant and a Netflix hit, Sung Anh’s remarkable journey to the top of Asia’s fine dining world is anything but typical.

“Just like I volunteered for the US Army to experience something different, I moved to Korea to explore new challenges,” says Sung Anh, the Korean-American chef and judge on the hit cooking reality show ‘Culinary Class Wars,’ which has just been renewed for a second season.

At 42, Sung is the head chef and owner of Mosu Seoul, South Korea’s only three-Michelin-star restaurant. Recently, his candid and precise approach as a judge on Netflix’s latest series has won him a new wave of fans. His determination to carve his own path has been a driving force in transforming fine dining in his homeland.

Sung was born in Seoul, South Korea, and moved with his family to San Diego, California when he was 13 years old.

“We were just a family from Korea, chasing the American Dream,” he recalls. “As immigrants, we didn’t really speak English.”

As a teenager on the West Coast, cooking was the furthest thing from his mind.

“I went to school, got into college, but then I joined the US Army because I thought it was the only way to see the world,” says the chef.

During his four years of service, he trained at various bases across the country before being deployed to South Korea, his birthplace, and — after 9/11 — to the Middle East.

“When I volunteered for the Iraq War, people asked me, ‘Why would you do something so insane?’” he remembers.

“I grew up hearing stories from my grandfather, father, uncles, and family friends about the Korean and Vietnam Wars. I volunteered for Iraq because I saw it as a rare opportunity to experience war firsthand,” he reflects.

In late 2002, he was deployed to Baghdad for a year-long assignment as a specialist with an artillery unit, tasked with clearing bombs and weapons left by Iraqi forces, including the bunker where Saddam Hussein was found in 2003.

Sung describes his military experience as “eye-opening.”

“Serving as a soldier for four years was one of the best experiences of my life, it was thrilling,” he recalls.

“I met people from places like Dakota, Idaho, Puerto Rico, and Hawaii. I got to know their cultures, and even the subcultures within the country.”

A serendipitous encounter

After his military service, Sung wanted to change direction — literally. A passionate car enthusiast who raced cars at night as a teen, he dreamed of becoming a mechanic for Porsche.

But just two weeks before starting his training, a chance meeting with a group of chefs outside the now-closed American branch of the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in California set him on an entirely new path in life.

“They were all dressed in white shirts and checkered pants. I had no idea what the school was,” he recalls.

After speaking with the chefs and an influential school counselor, Sung became “hooked” and decided to put his dreams of being a mechanic on hold.

“I never looked back, never regretted it. And now, I drive a Porsche, so it all worked out,” he chuckles.

“Choosing this career was a bit of a spontaneous decision,” he admits. Still, cooking has always been in his blood.

Growing up, Sung was nourished by his grandmother’s cooking. Later, in the US, he got his first real experience in the kitchen, helping out at his family’s Chinese restaurant after school.

After culinary school, he honed his skills in some of the West Coast’s top kitchens, including the Michelin-starred French Laundry, Benu, and Urasawa.

“I’ve had the privilege of working with some of the best chefs in the US. They’ve mentored me and refined the rough edges I brought with me from the military,” he reflects, crediting them for teaching him the value of finesse in the culinary world.

In 2015, Sung opened his own restaurant, Mosu San Francisco, blending American flavors with influences from his Korean roots.

It was a gamble that paid off – within a year, he earned his first Michelin star.

“It didn’t fully satisfy me. I was thrilled for my team and myself, but deep down I knew there was still more to achieve,” he says.

“I wanted to return to my homeland and apply what I had learned – using native ingredients, Korean culture, and heritage,” he explains.

After two decades in the US and a Michelin star to his name, it was time to bring Mosu back to Korea.

The new face of Seoul’s culinary scene

In 2017, chef Sung opened Mosu Seoul in the heart of one of the world’s fastest-growing fine dining hubs. His goal was clear: to innovate.

Mosu was a revolutionary concept in Seoul. Sung took the fusion gastronomy he had perfected in San Francisco and transformed the menu to showcase the richness of Korean ingredients.

But this wasn’t just typical Korean food.

Chef Sung, a Korean-American, takes pride in challenging conventions — refusing to adhere to any single culinary tradition. His cooking reflects his heritage and diverse upbringing, all executed with careful precision.

The outcome? Thoughtfully crafted and inventive dishes, such as the signature abalone taco at Mosu, which incorporates flavors that pay homage to both his roots and his California experiences.

“At Mosu, I cook what I believe is the best — no constraints, no defined category,” he states.

In 2022, Mosu Seoul earned three Michelin stars, establishing itself as the contemporary symbol of Seoul’s rapidly changing gastronomic landscape.

A Netflix star emerges

Sung’s unwavering precision is showcased on Netflix’s hit series 'Culinary Class Wars,' where 20 elite chefs compete against 80 unknown cooks for the coveted title of South Korea’s top chef.

Chef Sung stars alongside seasoned restaurateur Paik Jong-won as the esteemed — and sometimes intimidating — judges on the show, pushing the chefs to deliver only their finest work.

The renowned perfectionist, known for his high standards — who makes even the top chefs nervous when tasting their creations — admits that his newfound fame makes him a bit “uncomfortable.” But he insists that he stayed authentic to himself on camera.

“When I express my thoughts, I do so with precision, logic, and care, because my words hold weight and others rely on them,” he explains.

“I wasn’t pretending, I was just being myself. I deeply respect the contestants for their bravery. I understand how tough it is to create great food. I wanted to offer my support, but I also set clear standards because not everyone can win,” he adds.

The show has brought attention to the growing influence and diversity of South Korean fine dining, an industry that has been largely underappreciated on the global stage until now.

“The fine dining and restaurant scene in Korea has evolved so quickly,” he says. “Seoul used to be just a layover city, but now it's become a destination in its own right.”

In early 2024, four Seoul-based restaurants — including Mosu — were named among Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, alongside Mingles, Onjium, and the fermentation-focused 7th Door.

Chef Sung received recognition at this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants ceremony, held for the first time in Seoul, where he was honored with the Chefs' Choice Award for leading the way in Korean fusion cuisine.

Korean fine dining is booming at a time when chefs from Korea are gaining global attention, from Komah in Sao Paulo to Atomix in New York. In 2023, two Michelin stars were awarded to Korean restaurants in New York.

“The world is captivated by Korean culture, food, and fine dining,” Sung says. “People are really curious about what we're doing, what our flavor profiles are, and how we showcase our culture through food.”

For Sung, this also means sharing his culinary creations globally. In 2022, he expanded his reach by opening a sister restaurant, Mosu Hong Kong, inside the contemporary M+ art gallery in the city's thriving cultural hub.

Honoring Korean craftsmanship

As South Korean cuisine gains recognition, Chef Sung pushes boundaries further at Mosu Seoul, celebrating not just local flavors but also the artistry of Korea. For example, every dish is served on handcrafted plates and bowls made by Korean artisans.

“I wanted the dishware to complement my food, not just be beautiful, expensive, or shiny,” he explains.

Sung carefully selects all of Mosu’s tableware from Sikijang, a specialty craft store located in the upscale Gangnam district of Seoul.

“I’ve collaborated with many chefs, but Chef Sung is one of a kind, truly exceptional,” says Chung So-yeong, owner and creative director of Sikijang.

“He has an incredible ability to understand the techniques and materials used by various artists in their crafts — it’s remarkable,” she adds.

One of Mosu Seoul’s signature pieces — a sleek, white porcelain plate — is crafted by a renowned Seoul-based artist famous for his intricate, twisted porcelain sculptures.

Ceramic artist Yoon Sol had never worked with tableware until meeting Chef Sung in 2017. Inspired by his vision, he quickly embraced the challenge.

“There are people who share the same thoughts, emotions, and energy as you, and when you meet them, it gives you chills,” says Yoon from his studio on the outskirts of Seoul.

“Chef Sung brings life and personality to each piece I create, which I deeply admire. I respect his mindset and the value he places on beauty,” Yoon adds.

The pure white of Yoon’s ceramics enhances the visual impact of Chef Sung’s culinary artistry.

“I have a strong bond with the artist,” says Sung. “I aim to incorporate their intentions and craftsmanship into the dish, presenting it as a unified creation.”

The upcoming course

In early 2024, Mosu Seoul bid farewell to its original location in Itaewon after seven successful years, moving to a new space within the same district.

The revamped Mosu is expected to open its doors in early 2025.

While the new location is being transformed with the signature ‘Mosu’ touch, the team has been busy curating the new menu and hosting events throughout Asia.

Chef Sung mentions that the new venue will preserve the essence of the original Mosu Seoul, but with an upgrade — featuring fresh dishes and a refreshed design, ensuring the restaurant continues to evolve along with South Korea’s thriving fine dining scene.