How Learning to Surf Enhanced My Connection to Hawai‘i—and the Ocean

Just moments before riding my first wave, I floated on my board next to acclaimed pro surfer Jamie O’Brien, my instructor at Turtle Bay Resort on O‘ahu’s North Shore. When he spotted the swell he wanted me to ride, he gave me a gentle push. I stood up, wobbling on my legs and arms, and in disbelief, I glided along the shoulder of a small wave for what felt like five minutes (though it was probably under 10 seconds). Time seemed to freeze as I felt the thick saltwater beneath me, enjoying the surreal sensation of soaring—almost flying—toward the shore.

Turtle Bay is the only luxury resort in O‘ahu’s less developed northern region, home to the world-famous Banzai Pipeline surf break. The property boasts five miles of stunning coastline, and a significant renovation in 2021 spotlighted the ocean and surf culture. Breathtaking views of the water are visible from all 450 rooms and bungalows, from the lobby’s expansive windows, and from the revamped pool area. Inside, a marine-inspired color scheme and local art enhance this connection to the sea.

It’s no surprise that O’Brien selected Turtle Bay Resort to launch his first surf school in 2021. Born and raised on the North Shore, his father worked at the resort since it opened in 1972, and O’Brien took his first surf lesson in the hotel’s pool. Winning the North Shore’s annual Pipeline Masters competition at just 21 years old in 2004 propelled his career around the globe. These days, he prefers not to be away from home for too long.

“Every time I return to Hawai‘i, it feels revitalizing,” he said, referring to his partner and fellow surfer, Tina Cohen, who joined us on the waves. “We’re always thrilled to be back home.”

Hawai‘i holds a deep significance for me as well. My Japanese American family has been rooted here for four generations, and I grew up exploring the tidal pools on O‘ahu’s North Shore. The wildfires that erupted in western Maui in August left me heartbroken. I had just visited O‘ahu a few months prior, and witnessing the devastation and the recovery efforts only strengthened my commitment to share the inspiration I find in Hawai‘i.

Here, there's a distinctive blend of nature and culture, and surfers, in particular, share a profound connection with it. Polynesians introduced surfing to the Hawaiian Islands as early as 400 C.E. when they arrived in double-hulled canoes.

I'm not alone in my admiration for the ocean these days. Recently, Hawai‘i has made significant strides in safeguarding its waters. The state has outlawed coral-damaging sunscreens and limited tourist numbers at popular locations like Hanauma Bay. At Turtle Bay Resort, over half of its 1,300 acres are dedicated to conservation, protecting vital habitats for marine life, including Laysan albatrosses, sea turtles, and endangered Hawaiian monk seals. The resort also encourages travelers to connect personally with the ocean through activities like outrigger canoe tours, nighttime snorkeling, and O’Brien’s surf lessons.

While I spent time on the water with O’Brien and Cohen, I noticed the joy they found in simply floating on their boards, waiting for swells. We were fully immersed in the moment, free from our smartphones, feeling the ocean's rhythm as we flowed along until a rideable wave appeared. Cohen pointed out humpback whales breaching in the distance, and moments later, a turtle surfaced nearby.

Although I wouldn’t call myself a surfer, I did grasp some fundamental principles of engaging with the ocean’s power. My first attempt at standing on the board was more about serendipity and collaboration with nature rather than mastering skills, as my many spills proved. I also took that time to interpret the waves, each a unique reflection of gravitational forces, wind, and marine conditions. In those serene moments, the ocean shares its narrative, and being surrounded by this vast blue expanse makes it easier to listen.

For more details about Turtle Bay Resort and the Jamie O’Brien Surf Experience, visit turtlebayresort.com and jobsurfexperience.com.