It’s 2023. Are You Aware of the Origin of Your Spices?

Turmeric has a history spanning 4,000 years, predating the Great Wall of China. The Compendium of Suśruta, a key text in Ayurveda, suggests its use for alleviating the effects of toxic foods. The English term 'turmeric' is derived from the Latin terra merita (meritorious earth), while the Spanish term curcuma originates from the Arabic kurkum, which actually refers to saffron, a spice that turmeric is sometimes said to resemble.

In India, which accounts for nearly 80 percent of the world's turmeric production and consumption, it is known as “haldi” in Hindi and “manjal” in Tamil. Sanskrit, the foundation of many Indian languages, has over 50 names for turmeric, including hridayavilasini (delightful to the heart), varavarnini (which grants a fair complexion), tamasini (as beautiful as night), patwaluka (fragrant powder), laxmi (prosperity), and shobhna (brilliant color). With an impressive variety, India alone boasts over 30 different types of turmeric. Known for its warming, earthy flavor, turmeric varies in hue from sunburst yellow to Kraft mac and cheese orange, and is used in culinary dishes, beauty rituals, and holds cultural significance in Hindu traditions.

When Sana Javeri Kadri first encountered turmeric in California, after relocating from her hometown of Mumbai for college in 2012, it was lackluster—dusty and chalky, far from the vibrant Indian saffron. By 2016, the turmeric latte trend had taken off, described as so golden it was “a drink for Midas”. Having graduated and working as a marketing assistant at Bi-Rite market in San Francisco, Javeri Kadri began to inquire: Where is this turmeric sourced? More importantly, from which regions of India is it coming?

As a photographer, Javeri Kadri flew back to Mumbai in 2016 with a one-way ticket, eager to uncover the story behind turmeric and spice sourcing in India. She visited 19 farms nationwide and contacted the Indian Institute of Spices Research in Kozhikode, Kerala, the historical landing site of Vasco da Gama in 1498. There, she discovered vibrant, aromatic turmeric varieties rich in curcumin, the compound responsible for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits. However, these varieties were not available in the market. Instead, turmeric was predominantly mass-produced in India, sold to wholesalers and corporations, benefiting few farmers. There must be a better way, she thought, and resolved to change it. With $3,000, Javeri Kadri began collaborating directly with Indian farmers, eliminating middlemen, sourcing ethically grown turmeric, and founded Diaspora Co. in 2017 at the age of 23.

Today, the Mumbai and Oakland-based Diaspora Co. offers 35 single spices, including cardamom, cinnamon, cacao, fenugreek, saffron, and four varieties of chiles, along with six spice blends. The company has received acclaim from outlets such as Eater and Vogue, the latter stating that “Diaspora Co.’s Fair-Trade Spices Will Enlighten More Than Your Cooking.” T Magazine’s Thessaly La Force remarked that Diaspora’s “turmeric was superior to any I have ever tasted.” A forthcoming The Diaspora Cookbook, featuring recipes from 25 family farms across India, Sri Lanka, and Pakistan, is set to be released in fall 2025.

Diaspora Co. is built on a solid foundation, sourcing spices from approximately 200 farm partners and over 1,500 farmworkers across 10 regions in India and Sri Lanka. The company compensates them at an average of four times the commodity price and more than three times the Fairtrade price, which itself is 15 times higher than the typical commodity price. (According to India’s Ministry of Agriculture and Farmers Welfare, the average monthly income for Indian farmers is 10,218 rupees, or US$123.) Additionally, Diaspora Co. provides advances on harvests, enabling farmers to cover their operational costs without resorting to loans—essential in a nation where over 50 percent of agricultural producers are in debt. In 2019, Diaspora Co. generated $69,000 in revenue for its farm suppliers, a figure that surpassed $1 million by 2021.

On Diaspora Co.’s website, each spice is accompanied by information about its flavor profile, origin, harvesting methods, culinary uses, and the stories of the farmers who grow them; there are also audio clips to aid customers in proper pronunciation. Nun-duh-nee koh-ree-ander. Candy-n-cloves.

“It took moving to America and gaining a Western perspective on the spice trade [to bring about change],” Javeri Kadri reflects on the brand’s focus on origin and storytelling. “I noticed a bit of an Indiana Jones vibe, where the narrative is that companies travel to distant lands to seek out spices. This notion is outdated and harmful, constantly alienating the origins of these spices.”

Javeri Kadri, who identifies as queer, represents a rare success in a landscape where LGBTQ-owned small businesses comprise less than 1 percent of the total. This identity holds significance not just for her personally, but also for the business, shaping its queer identity. In 2021, the team—split between India and the United States—crafted a nine-point queer manifesto, a framework of principles they collectively commit to uphold. (The first point reads: “Drawing inspiration from our Black trans and queer elders, we acknowledge that queerness is rooted in liberation, while business operates within capitalism. We navigate the inherent tensions of merging these two concepts.”)

Overall, things appear positive. However, Javeri Kadri emphasizes the need for change when we chat in February. In the coming year, there will be new narratives to explore. The focus will shift away from consumer motivations for purchasing spices, moving towards deeper reflections on what it means to be a queer-led, equitable, and even more sustainable business. Perhaps most notably, she intends to step back from the spotlight.

“When I started, my aim was to highlight the stories of queer brown immigrants in the food industry. I sought to occupy as much space as I could,” she explains. “Now, six years later, I hold significant power—I’ve carved out a substantial presence in this industry and on our digital platforms. With that recognition, I’ve realized I don’t need to dominate the space, as that’s not my role. The real work lies in sharing our farmers’ stories, promoting their recipes, and maximizing the sales of their spices.”

In this regard, it’s important to clarify: this is not merely a profile of Sana Javeri Kadri. Diaspora Co. transcends her individual identity, even though they have become deeply intertwined, largely due to the enthusiastic features focusing on her skincare line (her cleansers, serums, and sunscreens), her vibrant two-bedroom home in Oakland (often featured in design inspiration posts), and her weekend tradition of preparing a large batch of broth for soondubu jjigae each Sunday. This isn’t just another one of those stories.

In June 2021, Pooja Bag, an MBA student from Berkeley, began an internship with Diaspora Co., a brand she had discovered on Instagram and admired for its products. Initially drawn by the spices themselves, she recalls, “It might sound dramatic, but the first time I opened a jar of turmeric, I thought, oh wow, this is how it’s supposed to smell.” She was also impressed by Diaspora Co.'s transparency in its supply chain, which she felt was evident in chocolate and coffee but lacking in spices.

During her year-long internship, Bag concentrated on optimizing the brand's internal processes and was pleased to find that the company's external reputation matched its internal culture: a team united by empathy and a shared mission for the greater good.

Another key aspect of her role involved developing the company’s pitch deck, crucial for Diaspora Co.'s fundraising efforts. Unlike her past experiences with companies eager to accept any investment, Bag noticed a different approach here: “Previously, it was all about taking any available money. But this company emphasized that look: funding comes with conditions, and you need to be fully aware of what those conditions entail.”

In June 2022, Bag transitioned to a full-time role at Diaspora Co., and by July, the brand successfully raised $2.1 million in funding. She now serves as the company’s director of sales, balancing the delicate relationship between brand identity and profitability, as well as between taking risks and being cautious.

Looking ahead, Bag outlines priorities such as strengthening production in India, redesigning packaging to suit grocery store pricing, and considering international growth. Her dual goals include helping farmers build generational wealth and fairly compensating them for their expertise and land stewardship—something often overlooked in the spice trade. For consumers, she aims to reshape perceptions of spices: “I want people to see them not just as a sprinkle of dust but as a product derived from living sources, infused with thought, care, and genuine value,” she explains.

Wynne McAuley, who has been Diaspora Co.’s director of operations since January 2021, shares her excitement: “It’s thrilling to shift the perception of spices from mere shelf items that seem eternal to understanding that they are harvested from plants and part of a cyclical process,” she states.

A significant aspect of McAuley’s role involves managing the seasonality of spices—their freshness and optimal shipment timing. This leads to important questions: Could we discover new ways to save money? Could we speed up the process, improve efficiency? Could we plan better? How can we enhance our forecasting? How can we avoid stockouts?

McAuley emphasizes that it’s not just about being reliable for consumers and maintaining stock. The focus ultimately returns to the farmers, ensuring that Diaspora Co. is consistent in its annual requests. This commitment is central to their mission of being dependable partners to these farmers.

As the company expands and attracts more attention, McAuley highlights their critical examination of their carbon footprint. They are contemplating the implications of shipping products in jars and the environmental impact of their cardboard packaging.

“We’re all grappling with these questions, striving to enhance our company’s impact on the world,” she concludes.

Both McAuley and Bag affirm that growth will persist. Change is a constant. However, one principle remains non-negotiable: they will not pay farmers less due to price fluctuations or pressure from investors. That is a definitive boundary they will not cross.

7,582 miles from the Bay Area in Tons Valley, Uttarakhand, nestled in the Indian Himalayas, Kumud Dadlani thrives in her role as Diaspora Co.’s sourcing manager, a position she describes as encompassing a dozen roles. She collaborates with farm partners to address agricultural challenges, ensures compliance with U.S. and Indian food safety regulations, and forges new partnerships and spice offerings. "My goal is to act as a bridge between communities," she explains.

Originally from Taiwan, Dadlani spent her early years in Malaysia and Hong Kong before settling in Mumbai. Her diverse upbringing illuminated the significant cultural, social, and economic impact of food.

After completing her master's in food studies at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy, Dadlani returned to India, where she took on various roles: facilitating for Slow Food, serving as a provenance manager for an Indian hospitality firm, and specializing in new product development for Goa Brewing Company. In addition, she has been a freelance writer and volunteer farmer, contributing her efforts to enhance India's food systems. She joined Diaspora Co. in January 2022.

All spices from Diaspora Co. are harvested organically, yet Dadlani emphasizes that sustainability varies from person to person. A crucial aspect of her role, she explains, may not seem substantial on paper, but it is vital for Diaspora Co.’s success—listening, visiting, and learning. "Not every farmer has the same history, context, or background," she notes. "Taking the time to understand what can be done for each area represents sustainable farming. Ultimately, it needs to make sense for the farmer, as they are the central figure in this process."

However, merely purchasing from farmers is, in her view, "only half the job." In early 2022, Dadlani engaged a social impact consultant to survey 80 of Diaspora Co.’s farmers to better understand their needs. "We’ve seen companies come in and declare, 'We think we should do this, this, and this,'" she says. "I wanted to genuinely grasp what we could improve and where we could provide support."

Dadlani discovered that farmers were particularly eager to learn about healthcare, financial management, and education. In November 2022, Diaspora launched its Farm Worker Fund, aimed at financing social initiatives across partner farms. When we spoke in May, Dadlani had just wrapped up a medical clinic focused on women’s health, attended by 50 women discussing topics from iron deficiency to the importance of regular pap smears. Her next initiative will center on financial literacy, covering interest rates, loans, savings, and wealth growth. "Ensuring farmers achieve financial independence is crucial," she states.

The Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve is India’s largest forest reserve, covering three states (Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Kerala) and spanning more than 2,100 square miles in the southern part of the country. It hosts over 370 species of birds and 100 mammal species, including around 5,000 elephants, the largest population in India. Amidst these diverse influences, both natural and man-made, the Parameswaran family has farmed in the Thirunelly valley, nestled between the Western Ghats, for four decades.

For the past nine years, Akash Parameswaran has worked alongside his father, Parameswaran, on the family farm. Now at 31, he starts each day much like he did as a child: taking a morning stroll with his parents around the farm, typically around 7 a.m., to assess the plants and plan for the day ahead.

The Parameswarans have partnered with Diaspora Co. since 2019, after the company sampled nine varieties of pepper from across India and determined that the Parameswarans’ was the best. Today, Diaspora Co. markets their white and Aranya black pepper. Whether crushed over steak or featured in cacio e pepe, this pepper delivers a gentle heat: “With hints of red wine and nutmeg, this black pepper is a revelation,” wrote restaurant critic Bill Addison of the Los Angeles Times. “It’s a delightful shift in how I perceive a spice I previously took for granted.”

Harvesting a single jar of peppercorns is a meticulous process. The berries are manually picked from the plant, sun-dried for approximately seven days, and then sifted to eliminate any remaining husks. Currently, the Parameswarans are the sole producers of single-estate, vine-ripened, hand-harvested pepper in India. Akash attributes their ability to produce such premium quality to the support from Diaspora Co., which enables them to treat spices as the special items they truly are, rather than mere commodities.

“We don’t rely on the high-yield varieties that others use to sustain the farm,” Akash explains. “Our traditional varieties produce lower yields and are less consistent, but the quality of the peppercorns is significantly superior.”

Akash shares that Diaspora Co. has been both fair and transparent, aiding the farm with a storage facility and providing higher wages for labor. Thanks to the revenue from this partnership, the Parameswarans have been implementing artificial irrigation for their pepper plants over the past five years to address rising temperatures caused by climate change.

“Running the farm the way we aspire to wouldn’t be feasible without Diaspora,” he emphasizes, noting the importance of the encouragement he receives from the brand—he saves every positive review of their pepper as a screenshot on his phone. Then, he returns to work.

In 1978, writer and activist Audre Lorde released In the Erotic as Power, a compilation of essays analyzing female empowerment. This significant text countered the notion that women must suppress their consciousness, emotions, and empathy to be considered strong. Instead, Lorde argued that by embracing these qualities, women can forge truly meaningful relationships. “The principal horror of any system that defines good purely in terms of profit, rather than human need—or which ignores the psychic and emotional dimensions of that need—is that it strips our work of its erotic value, its life appeal, and its fulfillment,” Lorde wrote.

The concepts of radical empathy and radical honesty, along with the courage to embrace mistakes and vulnerability, are central to the mission of the Diaspora Co. team. These principles were so significant that they incorporated Lorde’s words into their queer manifesto. Javeri Kadri frequently reflects on these ideas, which guide her as she navigates the challenges of building an equitable business and explores the essence of queer feminine leadership. Accountability is key—not just to farmers, employees, and investors, but to herself as well.

“When I launched the company, one of the first things my dad remarked was, You left your first job after just nine months. You’ll likely get bored of this in no time. You need to learn commitment. My response was, I just don’t want to be bored. As long as I wake up every day facing significant questions and find it challenging, I’ll continue on this path. And that has indeed been the case.”