How to Organize Your Trip to Venice During Carnival

Each year, around 3 million visitors flock to Venice to join the Carnival celebrations (Carnevale in Italian). While Carnival, also known as Mardi Gras, is celebrated globally, it has a distinctive charm in Venice, whisking attendees back to the 1700s.

In 2020, when the COVID-19 pandemic began to spread in northern Italy, the Venice Carnival was canceled. The following year, it went virtual. The festivities returned in 2022 and are set to resume fully in 2023, with details still being finalized. Whether you’re planning to visit Venice for this enchanting event or simply dreaming about it, here’s all you need to know about Venice Carnival.

The History of Venice Carnival

The exact beginnings of Venice Carnival are unclear, but it’s certain that this tradition has been around for at least a thousand years. The first documented reference to Carnival dates back to 1092, but it wasn’t until 1296 that the Venetian Republic’s senate officially recognized it as a public festival. While Carnival is generally seen as a Christian observance before Lent, some historians trace its roots back to ancient Roman pagan customs.

“The Venice Carnival originally served as an outlet for the common folk,” explains Fulvio De Bonis, cofounder of the luxury tour operator Imago Artis Travel, who has experienced the festival and arranges exclusive events for his clients. “It was an occasion that allowed ordinary people to elevate their status, while also enabling the nobility to mingle with the commoners, creating a temporary equality among social classes.”

After Napoleon's conquest of Venice in 1797, he prohibited Carnival to suppress potential uprisings. It took almost two centuries for the festival to be revived.

What are the dates for Venice’s 2023 Carnival?

Venice Carnival kicks off on February 4, 2023, and reaches its peak on Fat Tuesday, which is on February 21, 2023.

What is the duration of the festival?

The festivities feature numerous grand parades and events, beginning with the Festa sull’Acqua (Party on the Water), where a procession of intricately decorated boats will glide through the Canal of Canareggio at night. The following significant event is the Festa delle Marie, where 12 stunning women dressed in historical attire parade from the Basilica di San Pietro to Piazza San Marco. This tradition dates back to the 9th century, when the wealthiest families in Venice presented beautiful garments, jewelry, and a bridal dowry to 12 impoverished young women. One of these Maries is chosen as the winner and descends from the bell tower of the Basilica di San Marco in an event known as Volo dell’Angelo (Flight of the Angel).

How can you participate in Carnival in Venice?

In addition to the grand public spectacles, there are numerous concerts, feasts, and extravagant masquerade balls held in the city’s most opulent palazzos. “The most prestigious event is the Ballo del Doge, hosted by Antonia Sautter,” De Bonis remarks, likening the atmosphere to Eyes Wide Shut without the explicit scenes. “Everyone desires an invitation to this ball. It’s the highlight of the year and securing tickets is quite challenging.”

The most effective way to learn about and gain access to the most exclusive balls is by consulting a tour operator like Imago Artis or the concierge at your hotel. “To maintain a tranquil environment for our guests, we don’t host parties at the hotel, but I am here, alongside our concierge team, to guide guests on the finest balls and events happening in the city,” says Paolo Lorenzoni, general manager of the Gritti Palace, a Luxury Collection Hotel. He also mentions that guests can enjoy traditional Carnival sweets crafted by the hotel’s pastry chef.

Beyond having the right connections, you’ll need a hefty budget to attend the most exclusive balls, which can start at over $800—this does not include costume rentals, which can also run into the hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

What should you wear to Carnival?

While you’ll definitely spot folks in everyday attire at the public parades, a key part of the Carnival experience is donning 18th-century costumes and stunning masks. Many revelers go all out, wearing extravagant ballgowns or suits embellished with feathers, beads, and luxurious trims crafted from rich fabrics like velvet and satin.

“The entire city transforms into an open-air theater, and there are unforgettable experiences, such as sipping hot chocolate at Caffè Florian in Piazza San Marco while dressed in a Carnival costume amidst a sea of masks!” Lorenzoni shares.

Masks are available in numerous shops throughout the city, but for the finest handmade creations by true Venetian artisans, De Bonis suggests visiting Sogno Veneziano Atelier and La Bottega dei Mascareri. Both artisans craft intricate masks inspired by the Commedia dell’Arte. Notable styles include the Bauta, which covers most of the face but leaves the mouth uncovered for eating and drinking, and la Moretta, a black velvet oval mask historically reserved for women, who would secure it by biting down on a button, rendering them mute.

Is it worth experiencing?

“Yes, it can be hectic. The streets can feel cramped with crowds, but the magic of attending a ball makes it all worthwhile,” De Bonis states, affirming that it’s something everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime.

Lorenzoni concurs, saying, “Carnival truly represents the most enchanting time of the year. Wandering through the narrow alleyways, encountering various masked figures, almost transports you back in time, allowing you to appreciate the stunning costumes crafted with exquisite artistry specifically for this occasion.”