How to plan a multi-day hike along Wales’ Glyndŵr’s Way

This series guides you through the intricacies of planning complex travel adventures. Here, writer Paul Stafford shares his experience organizing a long-distance hike along Glyndŵr’s Way through the picturesque rural heart of central Wales.

For those unfamiliar with Wales, Glyndŵr’s Way remains as obscure as the Welsh nationalist hero it honors. This multi-day journey through some of Great Britain's least populated regions offers a splendid introduction to the natural beauty, local history, and rural heritage of the Welsh heartland.

Beginning at the border of Wales and England, Glyndŵr’s Way traverses 135 miles (217km) through the remote, rolling landscapes of Wales, nearly reaching the coast before looping back to the border further north at Welshpool. The route seems almost crafted by a fugitive eluding capture by the crown’s forces, echoing the life and legacy of Owain Glyndŵr, marked by his land’s intricate ties to England and the ever-present threat posed by King Henry IV to Welsh independence and culture.

While designated as a National Trail – ensuring good maintenance of gates and signage – Glyndŵr’s Way is not heavily trafficked, allowing for long stretches of solitude. You might walk all day without encountering another person, yet you’re likely to spot red kites and buzzards soaring above, along with various other bird species, as well as foxes, squirrels, and rabbits. Here’s how to prepare for your journey.

Step 1: Choose your timing and approach

Each month transforms the landscape in a unique way.

In August, fells are adorned with glistening mauve heather. In May, vibrant wildflower patchworks emerge. Autumn showcases fiery woodland hues, while winter blankets the area in snow. Regardless of when you visit, nature offers an array of captivating scenes here.

Glyndŵr’s Way traverses remote yet gentle terrain, primarily consisting of sheep-grazing fields, dotted with patches of woodland. Given Wales' unpredictable rain throughout the year, consider the seasonal colors of the landscape when planning your visit. Early summer is typically the driest, although rainfall is still possible during this time.

If your hike is scheduled between late autumn and early spring, allow extra time to complete the route, as shorter daylight hours and unfavorable weather can hinder your journey.

Step 2: Determine how much of the trail you wish to hike

Embrace your inner Glyndŵr and forge your own path.

The recommended starting point is Knighton, concluding in Welshpool, though signage is clear in both directions. Fit hikers can tackle the entire 135-mile (217km) trek in nine days, averaging 15 miles (24km) daily, though wetter ground can complicate this challenge. Since the route can be hiked either way, many split their journey into two week-long segments, aided by excellent train services at both ends—Welshpool and Knighton—as well as Machynlleth, located approximately at the trail's midpoint.

For those wishing to take their time, alternative itineraries lasting up to 21 days are perfect, allowing for rest days. You might also combine several days on Glyndŵr’s Way with a few on the Offa’s Dyke Path, which intersects at both Knighton and Welshpool.

Step 3: Think about reserving your accommodations ahead of time

Indulge in a cozy bed and a refreshing shower to unwind at the end of your hiking day.

While it's wise to allow some flexibility in your schedule in case of delays, booking your accommodation as early as possible is advisable. Many stretches of the trail are far from hotels or B&Bs. Since wild camping is prohibited in Wales and you'll often traverse farmland actively used by local farmers, setting up a tent is not recommended. There are a few designated campsites, but they usually charge fees—making it more appealing to forgo the added weight of a tent in favor of enjoying the comfort of a hot shower and a cozy bed after a long day's hike.

Step 4: Gather your essential supplies

Ensure you have the right gear and provisions for your journey.

The hills of mid-Wales attract clouds and their accompanying rain. Although there are no high-altitude climbs along this route, much of the path traverses uneven, exposed, or boggy ground. It's advisable to wear a lightweight waterproof jacket, trousers, and even gaiters. Given the constant changes in elevation, you'll likely be adjusting your layers frequently, so choose a pack that allows for easy access. Sturdy, waterproof walking boots are essential footwear.

Streams often flow through sheep pastures, making them unsafe for drinking. You may walk for eight hours without finding a place to refill your water bottle, so ensure you carry enough water for the entire day. The same goes for food, toilet paper, and battery power for your devices.

Step 5: Stay on course

Steer clear of these common navigational mistakes on Glyndŵr’s Way.

While the trail is well marked, fatigue or worsening weather can make it easy to overlook signs and veer off course. In fields at higher elevations and on the moors, various subsidiary paths created by sheep or landowners can lead in different directions, complicating navigation at times.

A reliable map and compass are essential tools for any successful hike along Glyndŵr’s Way, helping you navigate back to the trail if you wander off. OS Maps can be helpful as well, though you’ll need five different maps to cover the entire route. A compact and informative guide is Walking Glyndŵr’s Way by Paddy Dillon, published by Cicerone.

Step 6: Discover Owain Glyndŵr's history along the trail

Traces of a prince; echoes of a fugitive.

Owain Glyndŵr began his journey aiding the English in their military campaigns against the Scots and abroad. By 1400, he had become an outlaw in his homeland, going on to triumph over the English in several battles in the ensuing decade. This winding trail through Wales doesn’t directly link to many significant sites associated with the Welsh nationalist hero, such as Harlech Castle by the coast, but rather meanders along ancient droving routes he might have used to evade King Henry IV's soldiers.

Hints of his adventures can be found along the path, such as at the ruins of Abbey Cwmhir (attacked by Glyndŵr’s forces) or in the valley where he secured victory in the Battle of Mynydd Hyddgen in 1401. After being crowned Prince of Wales in 1404, Glyndŵr established Machynlleth as the seat of his government, and his Parliament House (or a replica) still stands proudly in the town's center.

Much of Glyndŵr’s tale is woven from both legend and fact, leaving little known about his final years when he went into hiding following defeats, including the loss of Harlech to Henry IV’s army in 1410. Some accounts suggest he lived as a monk or shepherd, perhaps maintaining a low profile in the very remote hills you will traverse while hiking.

If I had the chance to do it again…

I would plan for more recovery time, especially in the early stages of the hike. Unless you’re an experienced long-distance trekker, nothing quite prepares you for the exhausting impact of carrying a heavy backpack for miles, often in less than ideal conditions – particularly on your feet. Even with high-quality hiking boots, the relentless water eventually took its toll, and I spent most days trudging along with soggy socks.

Incorporating occasional rest days into your travel plans allows for recovery time. During wet periods, it also gives your gear a chance to dry out. There’s nothing more daunting than putting on a pair of damp, cold socks and hiking boots before setting off on a 16-mile trek.