How to Savor Every Bite of 24 Ideal Hours in Rome

Rome has a saying, una vita non basta — one lifetime isn’t enough to savor everything this city has to offer. To truly indulge in the Italian capital’s culinary delights, you’d need a month to a year. But with a hearty appetite and some strategic planning, you can enjoy an exceptional feast in just one day.

The following itinerary is ambitious and potentially overwhelming, so feel free to hop on and off the carbonara train as you please. It focuses on grazing rather than full meals to manage the sheer volume of food. If you visit every spot, you’ll appreciate the exercise from walking between them. For convenience, consider using the it Taxi or myTaxi apps for local transportation. So, put on comfy (and stylish) shoes, charge your phone, get some transit tickets, and grab a bit of cash. Partiamo!

9 a.m. Breakfast at Regoli

Head to Pasticceria Regoli, a century-old pastry haven in Esquilino, where vintage decor and staff uniforms transport you to a bygone era. This spot is famous for its traditional breakfast pastries, especially maritozzi — oblong, yeasted buns generously filled with whipped cream. Order at the pastry counter, pay at the register, then take your receipt next door to their coffee shop. Enjoy your messy treat with a cappuccino or espresso. The process is a bit involved, but well worth it. Visit Pasticceria Regoli, Via dello Statuto, 60, 00185 Rome

10:30 a.m. Hearty Mid-Morning Meal at Mercato di Testaccio

Rome boasts over 100 public markets, but Mercato di Testaccio is my top pick for both grocery shopping and people-watching. By mid-morning, the lively market is quieter — the early birds have left, and the architecture students haven’t yet arrived. Before diving into your second breakfast, stop by Box 68 to chat with Silvia and Gabriele Vittori for ripe apricots or figs and a seasonal produce rundown. Further in, check out the Sartor family’s butcher stall (Box 61-70) to see if you can catch Signore Sartor expertly butchering a lamb.

Time to nibble: At Box 90, Artenio Fanella offers fantastic personal pizzette. Try one topped with vibrant tomato sauce, then save room for a sandwich from Mordi e Vai at Box 15. Former butcher Sergio Esposito crafts sandwiches with various meats and offal, essentially Roman secondi in bun form. Don’t miss the #1, allesso di bollito, tender brisket with optional cicoria, bitter greens with a hint of chile — definitely go for it. Visit Mercato di Testaccio, Via Aldo Manuzio, 66C, 00153 Rome

12 p.m. Pre-Lunch Treat at Trapizzino

While in Testaccio, don’t miss the birthplace of the trapizzino, invented in 2009 by baker Stefano Callegari. He combined the triangular shape of the classic tramezzino sandwich with slow-leavened pizza dough, creating a fast-food sandwich packed with Roman favorites like spicy beef stew, tongue with salsa verde, and meatballs. This inventive treat has become so popular that there are now several locations in Rome and two in New York City. Try the chicken cacciatore, a stew of tender dark meat with herbs, vinegar, and wine — one of the best bites in the city. Visit Trapizzino, Via Giovanni Branca, 88, 00153 Rome

1:30 p.m. Lunch at Two Boncis

Trionfale, the neighborhood just north of the Vatican, offers a break from the crowded tourist spots in Rome’s center. Begin your culinary adventure at Pizzarium, Gabriele Bonci’s renowned pizza-by-the-slice spot. Since opening 15 years ago, it has earned global acclaim for its cold-fermented dough topped with artisanal and organic ingredients. The selection varies daily, but staples like the classic tomato and oregano or potato and mozzarella combinations are always on offer.

Stroll down another Trionfale side street to visit Panificio Bonci, Gabriele Bonci’s more relaxed bakery. Unlike Pizzarium, which focuses on creative pizza taglio, Panificio Bonci sticks to traditional Roman bakery staples like bread, cookies, cakes, and pastries. While the pizza by the slice here is less adventurous, the roasted chicken is a standout — perfectly seasoned with crispy skin and juicy meat, accompanied by potatoes drenched in rendered fat. Order at the counter and enjoy your meal at the outdoor wooden bar. Visit Pizzarium, Via della Meloria, 43, 00136 Rome; Panificio Bonci, Via Trionfale, 36, 00195 Rome

4:30 p.m. Gelato at Gelateria dei Gracchi

At this popular gelateria, known for its irresistible flavors and constant crowds, you’ll find everyone from teens to attorneys lining up. Be sure to grab a ticket outside before joining the queue. Try two scoops: the decadent, slightly textured pistachio and the smooth, indulgent zabaione, a custard enriched with Marsala wine. Visit Gelateria dei Gracchi, Via di S. Pantaleo, 61, 00186 Rome

6 p.m. Aperitivo at Il Goccetto

Time for a break and aperitivo! This is your chance to unwind while whetting your appetite for dinner. Head to Il Goccetto when it opens at 6 p.m. to secure a spot inside, or join the regulars outside beneath the VINO e OLIO sign. Choose from over 20 wines by the glass listed on the board, such as a Fiano from Campania or a Ribolla from Friuli, and pair it with a refreshing salad of apple, celery leaves, and primosale cheese to stimulate your appetite. Check out Il Goccetto, Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14, 00186 Rome

9 p.m. Dinner at Cesare al Casaletto

Known variously as “Cesare al Casaletto,” “Da Cesare,” or “Trattoria Da Cesare,” this trattoria is a must-visit for a quintessential Roman meal. Regardless of what you call it, this slightly updated Mytoury covers all the bases of Roman cuisine, from creamy cacio e pepe to succulent grilled lamb chops and vibrant seasonal greens.

Start with a selection of fritti, including polpette di bollito (crispy meatballs made from slow-cooked beef) and crocchette di melanzane (eggplant croquettes). While the menu largely sticks to traditional fare, don’t miss the innovative fried gnocchi bathed in cacio e pepe sauce. Follow with Rome’s classic pastas and expertly prepared offal, like roasted pig’s liver or oxtails in celery-tomato sauce. Cesare al Casaletto also boasts a remarkably affordable wine list with natural wines from Italy, France, and Slovenia.

Don’t be daunted by Cesare’s location on the map. It’s easily accessible from the historic center: a 15-20 minute taxi ride or a 30-35 minute tram ride from Piazza Venezia. Visit Cesare al Casaletto, Via del Casaletto, 45, 00151 Rome

After Midnight: Cocktails at Jerry Thomas Project

For a robust nightcap, head to the Jerry Thomas Project in the heart of the city. This exclusive 30-seat lounge has been a cornerstone of Rome’s craft cocktail scene since opening in 2009. Styled as a faux-speakeasy, its dimly lit, smoky ambiance is maintained by its status as a cultural association (membership required upon arrival), which allows it to bypass Italy’s smoking ban and extended hours — it stays open until 4 a.m.

Reservations are a must, and once inside, you’ll be seated at one of the limited barstools or a vintage couch. The menu features both classic concoctions — many inspired by the 19th-century American bartender for whom the bar is named — and inventive cocktails made with spirits and vermouth from Piedmont’s Distilleria Quaglia. My go-to is the Monsieur Negroni, a twist on the Italian classic with house-made gin and vermouth, and a unique bitter red liqueur from JTP. Visit Jerry Thomas Project, Vicolo Cellini, 30, 00186 Rome

Late Night or Early Morning: Ali Baba

While Romans might dine late with a typical 9 p.m. dinner, true late-night eats are scarce. Most post-midnight options are questionable food carts near nightclubs. For a satisfying late-night meal, visit Ali Baba, a 24-hour Syrian kebab joint nestled in a modern residential area in southeastern Rome. Enjoy a selection of kibbeh and brik (savory phyllo pastries), followed by tender lamb or chicken kebabs, served in freshly made lavash.

Take a look around: The eclectic mix of street cleaners, inebriated club-goers, elderly locals, and chefs unwinding after their shifts, all gathered beneath Ali Baba’s neon blue sign, captures the essence of Rome’s diverse nightlife. Ali Baba, Via Carroceto, 96, 00178 Rome

Katie Parla is a Rome-based cookbook author, food journalist, educator, and culinary guide.Twitter | Instagram | Facebook