I Attended a Viennese Ball Solo and It Was an Incredible Experience

Having never attended a high school dance, here I am, twirling on the dance floor under the opulent ceiling of the Musikverein. Thankfully, my charming dance partner skillfully guides us through the Viennese elite as we waltz, rumba, and even polka, which feels like the Mad Tea Party ride at Disneyland. We spin so fast that I'm often unsure if my feet are even touching the ground.

Balls are a major tradition in Vienna. Each winter, over a hundred balls take place in January and February, catering to various professions, from the Jägerball for hunters to the BonBon Ball for chocolatiers. The famous televised Opera Ball is the largest and most recognized, while the Philharmonic Ball stands out as even more exclusive and refined.

The event begins with a formal procession honoring distinguished guests, including this year's Princess of Thailand. Following this, the debutantes grace the floor for a beautifully choreographed opening performance. Once Herr Elmayer, head of Vienna's most esteemed dance school, calls out “Alles walzer!”, the velvet ropes part and everyone rushes onto the dance floor. It can be quite daunting to dive in immediately among all the debutantes, as a busy dance floor resembles a game of bumper cars. But after downing my glass of sekt, I leap into the mix.

Single ladies can find a dance partner near the stage at what is known as the herreninsel – or island of men. These taxi-dancers come from the hosting dance school and participated in the opening ceremony, ensuring you'll be well taken care of. Alternatively, like my international friends and I, you can hire a private escort taxi-dancer for the entire evening. Earlier, we indulged in Imperial torte (much more delightful than the standard Sacher torte) and sipped Champagne in the Royal Suite at the Hotel Imperial across the street, a favorite of everyone from Queen Elizabeth to Lady Gaga, while prepping our hair and makeup for the night.

The Viennese waltz is twice as fast as the English waltz, and you'll always spin in a clockwise direction. As long as you grasp the basic rotational waltz step and can manage a bit of swing, you'll be perfectly fine on the main dance floor. For those truly lost, there's always the discotheque in the basement blasting Europop.

I had never encountered the quadrille before, but if I ever get married, this will be the dance at my wedding. You’ve probably seen it in Keira Knightley films. When the clock strikes midnight (and again at 2 a.m. because einmal ist keinmal), everyone forms rows on the dance floor. You stand next to your partner — the woman on the right — directly facing another couple. Herr Elmayer calls out the steps for each new sequence, and then los geht's. There’s the chaîne anglaise, a balancé always followed by a tour de main, and at some point, everyone (except me) is joyfully chanting in German. Between sequences, couples gallop back and forth across the dance floor, trying not to bump into others. The final sequence of the Fledermaus-Quadrille is repeated six times, each round faster than the last, culminating in delightful chaos. Laughter fills the room, and it’s perfectly fine if you don’t know the steps. Forget the Macarena and Cha Cha Slide; why can’t we have the elegance to dance the quadrille at our parties in America?

Seven hours pass swiftly, with the elderly couples still dancing strong as the ball wraps up at 5 a.m. The teenage debutantes will soon head to school, but I barely escape my dress before collapsing into bed at the Hotel Imperial, waking up face down in a pillow littered with false eyelashes. I didn’t expect to stay the entire night or finish a whole magnum of sekt, but I’ve never had such fun dancing before. I’m typically the girl who enjoys watching everyone’s handbags from the sidelines. I’m pretty sure I just hit my peak in life, and now it’s back to reality.

Essential Insights for Attending a Viennese Ball

Purchasing a Ticket: Almost all the numerous balls in Vienna welcome the public, and many allow you to buy tickets online. Consider getting a table as well; with just a general admission ticket, it can be challenging to secure a good view of the opening ceremony.

Waltz Lessons: Get ready for the event by brushing up on your Viennese waltz with a private lesson at either Elmayer or Thomas Kraml dance schools.

Gown or Tuxedo Rentals: Modehaus Vondru offers a great selection for both men and women, with top-notch tailors. Choose your gown the day before the ball, and it can be delivered straight to your hotel the next afternoon. Rentals are priced at €300, covering fitting, adjustments, and cleaning.

Pro Tip: Schedule a massage for the day after. Your feet will be grateful. The Ritz-Carlton Vienna features an excellent spa.