In Case of Emergency, Try Saigaishoku

The shōgayaki (ginger pork) had a chewy texture and the udon noodles were overly soft. The ginger-and-plum mackerel could have benefitted from a bit more soy sauce, and the onigiri (rice ball) was slightly salty. However, these are minor issues when you're facing a natural disaster.

These meals didn't come from a restaurant but from pouches and cans of saigaishoku (disaster food), emergency supplies my family had stored in our home in disaster-prone Japan for years, prepared for earthquakes, tsunamis, or other calamities that could leave us stranded for days. I chose to sample them, not out of necessity but out of curiosity. Could I really survive on this food for days if needed?

I had an extensive selection to pick from. Japanese disaster food — also known as bōsaishoku (disaster-prevention food), bichikushoku (food reserves), hozonshoku (preserved food), and hijōshoku (emergency food) — offers remarkable variety. Options include dehydrated mushroom risotto, freeze-dried chicken stew, and canned mackerel in miso and sesame. Ready-to-eat packets range from traditional dishes like nikujaga (beef and potato stew), oden (fish cakes and vegetables in savory-sweet broth), and curry to more familiar global options like pasta carbonara and beef stroganoff. Some meals even feature a built-in heating unit. One brand claims its meals can last for 25 years. For dessert, you can find Toyo Foods’ canned matcha cheesecake, Izameshi’s anko mochi (sweet rice cakes with red bean paste), or Imuraya’s yōkan (sweet jellied red bean paste), which has received an award from the Disaster Prevention Safety Association.

Japan has a rich history of food preservation, including items like miso, konbu (dried kelp), niboshi (dried sardines), umeboshi (pickled plums), and kōya-dōfu (freeze-dried tofu), which serve similar purposes to saigaishoku. However, the wide range of modern canned and vacuum-sealed options is a relatively recent development.

“I've noticed a significant increase in the variety of disaster food available lately,” says Hiroki Hara, a disaster aid expert at the Ajinomoto Foundation in Tokyo. “There's also grMytour public awareness regarding the necessity of maintaining emergency supplies at home.”

When I opened my emergency food supplies, I expected to join a small group of disaster victims and constant worriers who view saigaishoku as either essential or a comfort. Instead, I discovered a broader cultural interest in last-resort foods.

Natural disasters are commonplace in Japan, which lies along the Ring of Fire, a seismically active region in the Pacific Ocean. It’s unusual for a week to pass without tremors affecting some area of the country. According to the government's estimates, there is a 70 percent likelihood that a major earthquake will strike Tokyo within the next thirty years, potentially resulting in thousands of casualties, widespread destruction, and leaving the city without power, gas, or water for several days. Officials advise that every household should store enough food and water to last between three to seven days.

Before 1995, fewer than a dozen products were categorized as saigaishoku, according to a study by the Japan Disaster Food Society. That year, a 7.2 magnitude earthquake struck Kobe and other areas in western Japan. Within two weeks, over 320,000 people were packed into emergency shelters, relying on supplies from government agencies. Many evacuees, especially the elderly, voiced their dissatisfaction to reporters, stating that the hardtack biscuits were too bland and difficult to chew.

In response, government officials sought alternative sources of saigaishoku. They approached Onisi Foods, a Tokyo-based company recognized for its alpha rice, a quick-reconstituting dehydrated rice. The product was invented by Haruyasu Onishi, a former naval submariner, in the 1940s, and for many years, this lightweight, affordable rice was used in military rations and high-altitude meals for Japanese expeditions in the Himalayas.

However, both soldiers and climbers were aware that it tended to go rancid rapidly. According to Hideaki Ito, Onisi's general manager of product development, the issue stemmed from the oil in the rice spoiling as oxygen infiltrated the packaging.

'We upgraded to higher-quality rice and implemented new airtight packaging along with oxygen-absorbing inserts, which also improved the products' shelf life,' Ito explains. This innovation coincided perfectly with regional and national government officials seeking solutions. After securing these contracts, other food manufacturers began introducing their own versions of alpha rice. Currently, alpha rice constitutes 40 percent of all disaster food and beverage sales, with Onisi leading the market.

The surge in demand for dehydrated rice sparked a wave of new product offerings. Initially, smaller food brands introduced familiar dishes like beef curry, nikujaga, and hamburger steak. Following the tremors in Niigata Prefecture in 2004 and the catastrophic earthquake and tsunami in Tohoku in 2011, a broader range of products emerged. Vegetable soups, juices, stews, ramen, muffins, desserts, and potato chips became available, along with options catering to dietary needs: canned liquid formulas for infants, okayu and zōsui (rice porridge) for toddlers, easy-to-swallow gelatinous chicken and fish filets for seniors with dysphagia, allergen-free strawberry-flavored rice flour cookies, and halal-certified nasi goreng (a popular fried rice from Southeast Asia).

Government offices, businesses, nursing homes, and hospitals primarily purchased these new items. However, a series of recent earthquakes, floods, official calls for enhanced disaster preparedness, and the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 led to a notable market shift.

'During the pandemic, many consumers stockpiled disaster food in case a family member contracted the virus and needed to stay home,' remarks Ikuo Nishina, a spokesperson for Satake, the Hiroshima-based producer of the alpha rice brand Magic Rice. Today, consumers represent approximately 20 percent of the market, and surveys indicate that over half of Japanese households maintain food reserves. By 2027, sales are projected to reach nearly 32 billion yen ($210 million), more than double the figure from a decade ago, according to the Yano Research Institute in Tokyo.

Not all the interest in saigaishoku stems from those preparing for emergencies or dealing with disasters. Researchers at Japan's base in Antarctica and Japanese astronauts aboard the International Space Station also consume disaster food. Additionally, hikers and outdoor enthusiasts are among its users.

'I’m Japanese, and I want to enjoy rice even in the mountains, and I’m not the only one,' says Ken Noguchi, who became the youngest climber to conquer the highest peaks on all seven continents in 1995. 'Climbers from around the world rave about Japanese disaster food. I know South Korean teams that come to Japan specifically to stock up on food before heading to the Himalayas. I always pack extra meals for my Sherpa guides.'

Alternatively, they could dine at Izameshi Dish in Tokyo’s bustling Ginza district. Opened in 2021, the restaurant offers 65 varieties of the Izameshi brand’s disaster food as hot meals and sells the packaged versions, allowing anyone to recreate these dishes at home.

That’s precisely what the Japanese government aims to achieve. In recent years, it has been encouraging citizens to incorporate saigaishoku into their daily lives and to explore the dishes thoroughly to understand better what to stock for emergencies. Agencies have urged people to build a 'rolling stock' of canned and packaged foods, using and replenishing their supplies regularly, and to organize themed saigaishoku dinners prepared under mock-disaster conditions.

When I inquired with Hara about this, he held up a container that resembled canned tuna.

'Canned yakitori,' he explained. 'It's a delicious snack I can easily open while enjoying drinks. However, in an emergency, it's an excellent source of protein. Once a disaster strikes, options become limited. It's wise to stay prepared or at least consider how to adjust your lifestyle for emergencies.'

By the fifth day of consuming disaster meals, I felt bloated. Although all my saigaishoku were tasty, they were oilier and saltier than I was accustomed to. I was craving a salad and knew I had to stop.

When I shared my experience with Hara, he nodded in understanding. Months prior, he had delivered supplies to those in temporary shelters in Ishikawa prefecture after a significant 7.5-magnitude earthquake.

'They had food, but it mainly consisted of rehydrated rice and curry, canned bread, and deep-fried items in bento boxes—lots of carbs and greasy foods. That's what local authorities were providing,' he noted. 'Sustaining this diet for months can result in constipation and a diminished appetite. This is a trend we've observed repeatedly over the years.' To address this, Hara's organization distributed vegetable juice boxes, vitamin supplements, and tofu that could be stored without refrigeration for months. In 2019, the Ajinomoto Foundation, the National Institute of Health and Nutrition, the Japan Voluntary Organizations Active in Disasters, and other groups initiated a campaign urging municipalities to include fiber-rich, vitamin, and mineral foods in their disaster supplies.

In spite of these initiatives, news about the Ishikawa earthquake led to a surge in traffic on fast-food chain Yoshinoya’s online store, as customers quickly purchased a canned gyū-don (beef bowl) with a shelf life of three years. This reaction reflected a strong instinct to ensure they had their preferred dishes available. While these choices might seem questionable, bowls of gyū-don could be vital to have during a disaster.

'Having familiar food can provide comfort,' says Kazuko Okuda, professor emeritus at Konan Women’s University. In times of crisis, a favorite dish can be one of the few sources of solace.

During a recent weekend, the lunch crowd at Izameshi Dish was predominantly young, indicating the broad appeal of saigaishoku across generations. I contemplated the koji-marinated chicken with onions but opted for the beef stew that included hearty vegetables, rice, watercress, and a scoop of herb cream cheese. Although it resembled more of a watery gravy than a true stew, it was quite enjoyable. I imagined how comforting it would be for a family stuck at home without power, gas, or water. It felt like a refreshing change from the oily, salty saigaishoku that had previously cluttered my pantry.

Before I left, I picked up packets of pre-prepared ginger pork, mackerel stewed with plum and ginger, and mochi filled with sweet red bean paste for my home supply. It’s better to be prepared than to regret it later.

Kenji Hall is an American journalist residing in Tokyo, focusing on stories about rice culture in Japan for an upcoming book.

Photo illustration credits: hamburger steak packaging by Amano Foods; choco yokan packaging by Imuraya; biryani packaging by Onisi; onigiri packaging by Onisi; canned beef by Yoshinoya.