Indulge in Sushi, Steak, and Global Flavors at Iraq’s American-Themed Buffet

Every Friday evening, a lively Uncle Sam—complete with a stovepipe hat, stars-and-stripes suit, and surprisingly brown beard—dances through the expansive 11 buffet stations of ABC Restaurant. He glides past a steakhouse adorned with mounted longhorns, wagon wheels, and walls decorated with U.S. license plates; a neon-lit diner dishing out fast food; and a playground reminiscent of McDonald's. Children swarm the costumed character, bursting with joy, while parents capture the scene on their phones. It’s a quintessentially American, family-oriented dining experience — right in Iraq.

Boasting a flagship location with 1,800 seats in Erbil and another 800-seat venue in Sulaimani (also spelled Sulaymaniyah), ABC stands as one of Iraq’s top restaurant brands, known for its bustling dining areas, substantial social media presence, and billboards dotting the landscape. Families and friends from various backgrounds—Kurds, Arabs, Christians—gather here. The menu is vast, featuring over 600 dishes, including Turkish kofta, Iranian tahdig, and Italian American spaghetti. Guests load their plates with steak, a favored choice, and share photos of their sushi, which ABC is recognized for introducing to Kurdistan.

A charmingly kitschy vibe fills the restaurant, which is divided into globally themed areas within a vast, mall-like setting. It resembles an indoor version of Epcot’s World Showcase, where even sections not directly reflecting American culture showcase other regions through an Americanized lens. The 'authentic Italian' area features faux cast-iron street lamps, brick walls, pillows adorned with the Italian flag, and paintings of famous landmarks like the Colosseum. There’s also a Mediterranean fish counter reminiscent of New England. Similarly, the restaurant’s international dishes have been Americanized; for example, the sushi largely consists of California rolls with imitation crab, Philadelphia rolls with cream cheese, and Alaska rolls with salmon, though nigiri makes occasional appearances.

In ABC’s imaginative world, Uncle Sam presides over culinary delights from China, Mexico, and Japan, positioning America as a representation of a modern, interconnected community. This concept isn’t new; businesses in developing markets frequently mimic the U.S. to project an image of global integration, linking Americanization with globalization. However, the way this representation unfolds at ABC is distinctly its own, reflecting northern Iraq’s unique sociopolitical landscape, Erbil’s eagerness for international recognition, and the lasting influence of American soft power. Ultimately, ABC exemplifies how global currents like globalization and Americanization are interpreted through local perspectives and aspirations, blending the global with the personal.

ABC Restaurant Group originated in the Netherlands when Dutch restaurateur Eric Meurs was inspired by a family visit to a Golden Corral in Florida. 'My dad thought, 'Wow, we need one of these in Holland,'' recalls Maarten Meurs, Eric’s son and the current CEO of the group. In 2000, ABC launched its first restaurant in Velp, Netherlands. With its all-you-can-eat model and unaedly American decor, the venue quickly gained popularity, expanding from an initial 150 seats to 500 by 2010, and now boasts 750 seats and eight buffet stations in a town of just 18,000 residents.

ABC Velp started attracting visitors from various regions, including an Iraqi Christian named Nawzad Martani, who discovered the restaurant in 2013 while celebrating his brother’s birthday. Like Eric Meurs, Martani was captivated. 'I found something unique, beautiful, and new. I thought, 'We should bring this concept to Iraq, to Kurdistan,'' he shares. Martani reached out to Meurs, who initially wondered if he was being pranked for Bananasplit, the Dutch equivalent of Candid Camera. However, as their discussions unfolded over the months, the idea of launching an ABC in Iraq seemed increasingly feasible.

Martani aimed to establish ABC's inaugural Iraqi branch in his hometown of Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan region in northern Iraq. While it is officially part of Iraq, Kurdistan enjoys significant autonomy, boasting its own parliament, presidency, armed forces, and border checkpoints that display the Kurdistan flag instead of the Iraqi federal flag.

Northern Iraq has a complex and rich multiethnic history, with Sunni Arabs, Shi’a Arabs, Turkmen, Christians, and minorities like the Yazidis coexisting. A large portion of the region's population consists of Kurds, often referred to as the largest ethnic group without an independent state, who suffered severe persecution, including genocide, under Saddam Hussein. Following the Persian Gulf War, the U.S., U.K., and France enforced a no-fly zone over Kurdish territory, allowing Iraqi Kurds to form the semi-autonomous Kurdistan Regional Government (KRG). The 2003 U.S. invasion further empowered the KRG, leading to relative stability in the region, which has become one of the more pro-American areas in the Middle East, although its autonomy may be under reconsideration.

After signing the franchise agreement, Meurs traveled to Erbil in 2014 to partner with Martani on building the restaurant but had to evacuate quickly when ISIS advanced within 25 miles of the city. The restaurant eventually opened in December 2017. Meurs was initially hesitant about introducing one of ABC’s Uncle Sam costumes in Erbil, but general manager David Kurdi believed the character would resonate with local patrons. The restaurant and Uncle Sam became instant successes. According to Martani and Meurs, over 2,000 guests flocked on opening day, and the costume has since been worn to tatters by thrilled children.

ABC has successfully tapped into the emerging professional middle class in the region, influenced in part by American culture. Over the last two decades, various conflicts—including the U.S. invasion, the capture of Mosul by ISIS in 2014, and the ongoing war against ISIS—have led to waves of migration into Erbil and the broader Kurdistan area, attracting a diverse group of professionals. Coupled with increased oil revenues and efforts by local Kurdish authorities to encourage foreign investment, this professional influx has transformed Erbil into a business hub. These residents, equipped with the means to afford ABC’s prices—around $25 (30,000 Iraqi dinars in Erbil, 25,000 in Sulaimani)—are also more exposed to international cultures, driving their demand for global cuisine. Alongside ABC, English pubs and wine bars have emerged in Erbil’s upscale shopping venues.

As Erbil developed a space for international enterprises, ABC gained a reputation among both domestic tourists and more cosmopolitan locals as the ultimate destination to satisfy cravings for adventure within Kurdistan. “Whenever we’re in Erbil, we have to visit ABC to see what everyone is raving about. It’s like going to Dubai and trying out Saltbae’s restaurant,” shares Abdulrahman Alsulaiman, a secondary school student who has visited ABC multiple times from his hometown of Mosul, a three-hour drive away.

“If you have family members who have traveled a lot or are acquainted with diverse cuisines and cultures, you’ll appreciate a place with a wide range of options, ensuring everyone can enjoy their favorite dishes. ABC caters to all ages,” states Ehsan Ali, Alsulaiman’s father and a computer science expert educated in the U.S., who previously worked with the United Nations Development Programme.

The restaurant’s global menu is complemented by an international team of chefs hailing from countries like Ukraine, Nepal, the Philippines, and India. While these chefs may not always prepare traditional dishes from their homelands, their presence itself adds value. “What distinguishes us from other Mytouries is our diverse staff—supervisors from Holland and chefs from Ukraine,” explains Martani. This mix may resonate with what some Arab commentators refer to as the “khawaja complex,” where foreign products and expertise are often favored over local options. “When customers notice these international faces, it reinforces their decision to dine here,” Martani adds.

While many see ABC as a status symbol, the wealth distribution in Kurdistan remains highly uneven and fragile. Youth unemployment rates are elevated, the government occasionally struggles to pay public salaries, and many Kurds are seeking opportunities abroad. Although ABC promotes its international staff as a unique selling point, the economic landscape necessitates careful navigation. Iraq has faced controversies regarding the increase of migrant labor; similar to trends seen in the UAE, these practices evoke memories of the U.S. military's use of “third-country national” contractors during the Iraq War. Kurdi points out that despite the presence of international chefs, at least 65 percent of the restaurant's workforce consists of locals, and ABC adheres to international employment standards for all its staff.

Despite the wealth gap between ABC’s most affluent patrons and many residents of Erbil, the restaurant remains an aspirational destination for those on a budget. ABC provides an accessible means to satisfy and showcase aspirations related to wealth. Unlike the U.S., buffet-style dining is a rarity in Iraq, typically found only in high-end hotels or exclusive restaurants during specific seasons or holidays like Eid al-Fitr. ABC enables guests to enjoy this lavish experience—and flaunt their access to global cuisines on social media—without the need for special occasions or connections to upscale venues. This year-round luxury resonates with customers; Uncle Sam, once a holiday feature, has become a beloved weekly Friday night attraction due to popular demand.

The transparent pricing model appeals to those keen on maintaining traditional hospitality norms. “In the Middle East and North Africa, there's a culture of invitation where treating guests to meals is a matter of dignity,” explains Khadija El Alaoui, an assistant professor at the American University of Iraq, Sulaimani (AUIS), who focuses on American studies and international relations. “In such scenarios, there's concern about how much someone might eat, which could lead to financial strain. Knowing the price upfront, even if 25,000 dinars seems steep, provides clarity about what one can afford.”

With its themed decorations, costumed Uncle Sam, and reputation as a family-friendly destination, ABC embodies many characteristics of a theme park. The parallels run deeper, as the restaurant represents the culinary manifestation of Disneyization, a sociological idea illustrating how modern consumption trends worldwide mimic the principles established by Disney theme parks.

“Much like Disneyland, ABC offers family-oriented entertainment and presents an idealized portrayal of various cultures through an American perspective,” explains Tobin Hartnell, an associate professor of social sciences at AUIS. “This safe yet novel atmosphere enables visitors to indulge their fantasies and aspirations, even if just for a brief moment. At ABC, guests can envision themselves as wealthy, ‘global’ citizens, partly by sharing experiences common in the West.”

This perspective aligns closely with the views of Kurdi and Martani regarding the restaurant. While some patrons may come to relive experiences from their travels abroad, not all customers have extensive travel histories. For those who haven’t ventured far, Kurdi likens ABC to a cosmopolitan embassy aimed at introducing guests to ‘international’ lifestyles. Having spent over a decade in Taiwan obtaining master’s degrees in computer engineering and international business, and working with multinational firms, Kurdi is passionate about cross-cultural engagement. “Part of our motivation for this buffet is to show people how we live abroad,” he states.

This mission resonates with many customers. “If you can’t travel and want to experience various cultures, this is the next best option,” says Harleen Love, a half-Kurdish, half-Arab freelancer and aspiring pharmacist.

Kurdi and Martani even view the all-you-can-eat buffet as a form of global education. In the restaurant’s early days, the concept was unfamiliar to most customers, leading them to take more food than they could consume, resulting in significant waste. Martani notes that during ABC Erbil’s first week, around 80 percent of the food ended up discarded. They regarded this waste as contradictory to their vision of ‘global’ responsibility and implemented creative strategies to address it. Cashiers are accompanied by hosts who explain the buffet concept, and screens around the restaurant remind diners, in Arabic, English, and Turkish, to avoid food waste—drawing on biblical references and common sayings from Ramadan: The eyes are hungrier than the stomach.

Nevertheless, El Alaoui posits that ABC is not merely a result of one-sided cultural influence from the United States.

“My favorite geographer, Doreen Massey, argues that instead of ‘roots,’ we should focus on ‘routes,’” El Alaoui states. Collaborating with scholars such as Himadeep Muppidi and Arjun Appadurai, Massey depicts globalization as an ongoing interaction of diverse, multidirectional exchanges. From this perspective, it is unfairly exoticizing to expect individuals in the Global South to refrain from adopting Western influences while adhering to a contrived idea of cultural uniqueness. As Massey points out, the meaning of “global” is context-dependent, allowing “locals” to shape the “global” according to their personal experiences and aspirations.

Since the arrival of ABC, the context has evolved for business owner Rawsht Abubakr, who has already surpassed some of the restaurant’s offerings. “ABC was the first restaurant in Kurdistan to offer sushi. It was exotic and perfect for Instagram,” Abubakr explains. “Now, I wish the Asian food menu included more than just sushi. I love Asian culture and want to learn more about its cuisine.” As customers integrate global dishes into their meals, ABC has spurred a dining scene that has evolved beyond its origins; several former employees have opened sushi restaurants across Erbil.

Ultimately, just as Disneyland visitors aren’t pondering the intricacies of capitalism while enjoying Space Mountain, most diners at ABC are not consciously reflecting on American cultural imperialism. Guests are drawn to ABC for fundamental, human reasons: to connect with family and friends in a safe, inviting space, to explore, to savor life, and to feel like valued members of both a global and local community.

To Americans, it might seem surprising that Uncle Sam frolicking around an American buffet has gained such popularity in Iraq; one might assume that the nation would resist further American influence given its turbulent history. Maarten Meurs continues to visit Florida regularly and notes that Americans who hear about ABC often react with skepticism. However, diners in northern Iraq have embraced Uncle Sam—along with steak, sushi, and a McDonald’s playground—as symbols of their own aspirations. Rather than viewing him solely as a representation of an American nightmare, they’ve adopted him as a mascot for Iraqi and Kurdish hopes.

Fatimah Fadhil is an Iraqi American student on a journey to become a cultural ambassador, one cup of coffee (or tea) at a time.Anthony Kao is a writer specializing in international affairs and cultural critique, particularly in relation to places with contested notions of nationhood. He also serves as the founder and editor-in-chief of Cinema Escapist, a publication that delves into the sociopolitical context of global film and television.