Introducing Virgilio Martinez, acclaimed as Peru’s top chef

Which is more thrilling for Virgilio: cruising through Lima’s historic streets on a skateboard or mastering the art of preparing a perfectly cooked steak?

Ultimately, it was an injury that steered Virgilio Martinez away from skateboarding, a shift that proved serendipitous for the culinary world, gaining it one of its most talented chefs.

With his restaurant ranked fourth globally and a Michelin star to his name, Virgilio showcased his culinary expertise once again last month when his Lima-based restaurant, Central, claimed the top spot on the S.Pellegrino Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list for the second consecutive year.

“I was once a semi-professional skateboarder, but after fracturing my collarbone in a California skatepark, I had to reevaluate,” recalls the 38-year-old chef, Virgilio Martinez.

“After getting it repaired in Peru, I tried skating again but ended up injuring my other shoulder!”

“That’s when I decided to quit skating. I was passionate about it, but once cooking took over, I left everything behind and immersed myself in the kitchen. I also considered becoming an architect, but I wanted to travel – cooking gave me that opportunity.”

He certainly racks up a lot of frequent flyer miles.

Last month, Martinez – who admits he starts his day thinking about food, beginning with his coffee choice – was in Tokyo cooking at the renowned RyuGin restaurant, in Mexico City for the Latin America’s 50 Best awards, and filming and foraging in Acomayo near Cuzco for Dinogo.

“I visited the Andean community near Cuzco that I regularly go to, where they grow papas raices potatoes, wild herbs, and other root vegetables,” he shares.

“We stayed in the homes of Acomayo locals, who truly took care of us: we cooked together and ventured out to forage.”

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Celebrating the rich and varied landscape of Peru

Though Martinez, whose Michelin star shines on the UK’s Lima London restaurant, acknowledges it would be easier to source ingredients from abroad, the essence of Central is rooted in the vast diversity of Peru’s natural bounty, which stretches from the Pacific coast to the Amazon rainforest and the Andean mountains.

In fact, Mater Iniciativa, the cultural and biodiversity research project he launched with his sister Malena, is the foundation of Central's Mater Elevations tasting menu – a 17-course experience that explores the unique flavors of Peru’s diverse altitudes.

Exploring his native land to uncover lesser-known ingredients or discover new farming plots is essential to his approach.

“I enjoy exploring our geography – we work with diverse ecosystems, so it’s crucial to stay mobile and not just remain in the kitchen,” Martinez explains.

“I don’t think suppliers should come to me; instead, I believe in building a relationship with them, their land, and the products they offer.”

“The concept of Central isn’t only experienced within the walls of the restaurant but also through the work of Mater Iniciativa,” he says.

“Social media is incredibly valuable as it allows me to share glimpses of the rural landscapes we visit. I post photos because it’s important for our guests to see where we go and what we’re cooking that day.”

Martinez’s latest venture, the newly launched restaurant Nos, embraces a more laid-back approach to dining, positioning itself far from the fine-dining experience offered at Central.

“Nos is not a mini Central [Centralito] as we don’t offer the same menu,” he clarifies.

“Honestly, this is a type of cuisine I’ve never made before – it’s not about concepts or life-changing experiences. It’s straightforward, affordable food that you can enjoy throughout the day.”

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Where to find the best traditional food in Lima?

When it comes to travel, Martinez has a particular fondness for Asia.

“I adored Thailand, and the entire continent of Asia captivates me: the deep-rooted traditions, its ancient history, and of course, the amazing food,” he shares. “I’ve always wanted to visit China, and if it weren’t so far, I’d head to Mongolia and then make my way down.”

With fatherhood on the horizon – Martinez and his wife Pia are expecting their first child – his travel plans will be limited, but it gives him the perfect excuse to explore more of Lima’s vibrant food scene, from humble street food stalls serving beef heart anticuchos to high-end fine dining experiences.

One restaurant he frequents specializes in traditional Peruvian dishes.

“Isolina offers comfort food: clam tortillas, chicken escabeche with white rice, lomo saltado – these are classic dishes I haven’t had in a while, but they’re making a strong return,” Martinez says.

“Ceviche and modern cuisine have become so trendy in recent years, but even though this style of food isn't in the spotlight, I still really enjoy it,” he says.

With two books on the way – 'Lima The Cookbook' coming out this October and 'Alturas,' focusing on Central, set for release in 2016 – the silver lining of a lighter travel schedule is that he gets to enjoy his mother's home-cooked meals more often.

“Her 'ají de gallina' chicken stew is one of the most delicious things ever, and it’s also one of the simplest,” he enthuses.

“But even if she made me a ceviche, it would be incredible too!”