Local Delicacies: Where to Dine and Drink in Florence

Dining is a significant aspect of Florence, leading the city council to enact regulations on the opening of new bars and restaurants in the UNESCO-protected city center.

This action was taken in response to worries over the saturation of tourist-oriented dining establishments, with the number of restaurants tripling from 2005 to 2015.

In the heart of this Renaissance city, there is roughly one dining spot for every 31 residents. While the selection appears vast, Italians often prefer familiar dishes. Long lines outside trendy, TikTok-endorsed places tend to draw criticism, and terms like 'traditional,' 'authentic,' and 'genuine' have been so frequently used to describe new eateries that they’ve lost their significance.

For locals, no trendy eatery can surpass a long-established reputation. We prefer what we know and tend to be cautious of new offerings. Here are my recommended spots to eat and drink.

Breakfast

The day begins with a shot of strong espresso—the first of many—at the nearest café. For me, that’s Bar Piccioli, a quaint, old-world pastry shop located in Borgo Ognissanti.

Italian breakfasts are quick affairs. Many first-time visitors to Italy are often taken aback to find that locals kick off their day with a sweet pastry and an espresso, typically enjoyed while standing at the bar. However, when done well, pastries can be quite fulfilling, and Claudio, the owner of Piccioli, has been delighting patrons with his exceptional cornetti (croissants) and other morning treats, fresh from the oven, for decades.

The ever-changing selection of crispy croissants—stuffed with everything from zabaglione (egg and Marsala custard) to pistachio—are a reliable choice. Depending on your visit, you might also encounter maritozzi (brioche buns) filled with whipped cream, custard, and pine nuts, as well as seasonal treats like rice frittelle (fried bites) that appear in early spring.

Coffee

I would love to include Circolo Rondinella in every category on my list. It’s a place where you can comfortably spend the entire day, from breakfast to dinner. There’s something uniquely enjoyable about sipping coffee on the faux grass in the outdoor area, overlooking the Arno River and the 14th-century Torrino di Santa Rosa. Here, you’ll often see groups of older men congregating daily for a glass of wine, engaging in spirited games of briscola, accompanied by friendly banter and good-natured swearing.

Don’t expect anything overly fancy when it comes to food here. The coffee is your typical espresso shot, and lunch features a rotating selection of seasonal pastas and main dishes. That’s the charm of Rondinella—it doesn’t strive to stand out in a city bursting with restaurants and cafes.

Circoli, or social clubs, play a vital role in Tuscan culture and are found throughout the region. These clubs typically focus on a cultural activity. Circolo Rondinella was once the hub for the local calcio storico historic football team, as evidenced by the memorabilia on display. They have long served as gathering places for community members to forge connections. Rondinella is notable for being one of the few circoli still active in central Florence.

When you visit, be sure to place your order at the bar and pay in cash.

Lunch

While many restaurants now feature a few plant-based options, dining in meat-loving Tuscany can be a bit monotonous for vegetarians. Il Vegetariano differentiates itself with a daily rotating selection of a dozen meat-free specialties, crafted from local recipes and ingredients sourced from the Florence area. Keep an eye out for inventive dishes like potato and black cabbage gateau topped with parmesan fondue.

Il Vegetariano, marked by its hand-carved wooden sign at the entrance, has been a staple since the early 1980s. It was a pioneer of vegetarian dining before it became trendy in a city renowned for its T-bone steaks. This isn’t just a great vegetarian spot; it’s a remarkable restaurant overall, evidenced by the steady stream of regulars enjoying the quirky decor. Be sure to sample the cakes.

Aperitivo

For those who enjoy sipping wine accompanied by the soothing sounds of vinyl records, Vineria Sonora is the perfect pre-dinner destination. This eclectic enoteca on Via degli Alfani boasts an impressive array of natural, organic, and biodynamic wines from independent Italian producers, along with weekend DJ sets. Swing by to kick off your evening with distinctive wines, from a unique orange Trebbiano of Tuscany to a sparkling Pinot Noir from the north.

Dinner

By 9pm, after a few glasses of wine, you might be craving something heartier. Just a short stroll from Vineria Sonora is Trattoria Accadì, an ideal spot to keep the evening going. This cozy trattoria features dark wooden furniture and a hand-written menu showcasing Tuscan classics like fried artichokes and traditional stews such as peposo (spiced beef) and ribollita (seasonal vegetables). You'll also spot some unexpected Japanese influences in the decor, reflecting the culinary journey of chef Toshifumi Mitsubiki, who left Japan to pursue his passion for Italian cuisine by opening Accadì.

Bar

For late-night drinks, head to the south side of the Arno River, particularly to Piazza Tasso, where Circolo Aurora serves cocktails beneath Florence's ancient city walls. Unlike the bustling bars of Borgo San Frediano and Piazza Santo Spirito, Circolo Aurora attracts locals with its regular live jazz nights and open mic events. Choose your beverages from a vintage photo album menu adorned with actual old photos, complementing the nostalgic decor filled with '80s action figures, vintage posters, and an old bike hanging on the wall. Although Florence’s live music scene has waned since the pandemic, Aurora keeps the spirit alive, especially in summer when tables spill out into the square and melodies float through the air.

Here’s more expert advice to assist you in planning your trip to Florence

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