Local Delights: Dining and Drinking in the Florida Panhandle

Culture desert. Rural outpost. The Redneck Riviera. Despite what northern critics label 'Flora-Bama,' the 200-mile stretch of Florida below Alabama is much more than that, as I— a Florida-raised New Yorker—can confidently attest.

The Panhandle, where my parents reside, showcases a unique culture shaped by American military families raising children near their bases. It's also a haven for fishermen, providing fresh seafood to Gulf Coast eateries along its beautiful, sandy shores. The region’s smaller airports made it feel like a hidden gem for Southerners. That’s changed. The secret is out, especially with Taylor Swift and Florence + the Machine referencing Destin in their new track “Florida” (though they don’t mention the food). With increased national attention and significant real estate development—particularly along Hwy 30A and the stunning planned community of Alys Beach—a culinary scene has finally emerged to complement the beach's allure. Here’s where to dine—and what to steer clear of—along the Florida Panhandle.

Traveling along Scenic Highway 30A? Don't miss these beach towns

Breakfast

Since 1978, the family-owned Donut Hole has been delighting Destin with delicious treats, and now has locations in Santa Rosa and Inlet Beach. This classic Sunday diner offers fluffy donuts, eggs prepared in every style, and comforting key lime pies. On weekends, the lines can stretch out the door, so aim to arrive by 8am to avoid the wait. My favorite spot is the charming sky blue 1950s countertop barstool, where you can sit shoulder to shoulder with the friendly locals.

Coffee

As a proud coffee enthusiast, Black Bear Bread Co consistently impresses me by sourcing its beans from Portland’s renowned Stumptown Coffee Roasters, crafting inventive local beverages. Here, I indulge in the “Tan Line Latte,” which features Stumptown espresso, mocha, house-made vanilla syrup, and coconut milk. What’s better than being energized and sporting a nice tan line? Although Black Bear has four locations along the Panhandle, I’ve made it a tradition to visit the café in Grayton Beach.

Pro tip: Park across the street from Black Bear and take advantage of the free 5-minute trolley ride to the beach. It’s a bit quirky, but kids adore it, and you won’t have to stress about parking (which can be tricky in the summer).

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Lunch

Lunchtime along 30A is a chic social event, best experienced with a wide-brimmed hat, oversized sunglasses, and a vibrant caftan. A prime spot to sit outdoors and soak in the atmosphere is George’s at Alys Beach, offering hearty salads, traditional lobster rolls, and generously poured Charleston-style bloody marys. For a beachy vibe, opt for a whipped feta flatbread, a smoked salmon sandwich, or even espresso martinis to-go from Fonville Press, the latest venture from Quest Hospitality Concepts, run by Jeremy and Angela Walton. This duo also operates the acclaimed fine-dining restaurant, the Citizen, just across the plaza (more on that later for dinner). For top-notch sushi in Destin, head to Eddie Morgan at Harbor Docks. His beloved waterfront restaurant has served the community since 1979, originally opening as a commercial seafood market by his father. The Morgans have weathered hurricanes, the 2010 BP oil spill, and even the take-out-only phase during COVID. The restaurant, reminiscent of a ship’s hull, is a nostalgic time capsule. Picture classic tunes from Steely Dan or Creedence Clearwater Revival playing as fishermen celebrate their tournament wins at the bar. Just a heads up: don’t ask for mahi-mahi. Yoshi, the Tokyo-born sushi chef married to a local airman, exclusively uses Gulf-caught snapper, grouper, shrimp, tuna, or the occasional lionfish if divers are successful. “Many visitors claim mahi-mahi is their favorite, but it’s not available commercially here,” Morgan remarked, enjoying torched lionfish sashimi. “If you find mahi on menus, it usually comes from Nicaragua, Costa Rica, or Mexico.”

Happy hour

For vibrant cocktails that blend Polynesian flair with Gulf influences, check out the Daytrader in the heart of Seaside. This tiki-style bar is perfect for people-watching and offers direct beach access. It’s helmed by one of the area's top chef-restaurateurs, Nikhil Abuvala, who serves his drinks in whimsical, colorful glassware to suit your vibe — typically “Margarita o’Clock” for me.

When I'm in the mood for a more refined start to my evening, I pedal over to the Wine Bar at Watercolor. Much of the culinary talent here is centered around Hwy 30A, where you’ll spot wealthy vacationers turned wine enthusiasts cruising on bicycles or golf carts. The extensive global wine selection caters to their refined tastes, featuring exceptional varietals from Italy, Portugal, France, Napa, and even Willamette Valley, Oregon (if you know, you know).

Dinner

Without a doubt, my top choice for dinner in the Panhandle is prepared by Coleman Jernigan, executive chef at The Citizen in Alys Beach. Reservations are essential, but the beautifully designed space by Khoury Vogt Architects also accommodates walk-ins at two bars: one for cocktails and another for champagne and oysters. My go-to dish is the Fishermen’s Stew ($51), a delicious tribute to New Orleans, where Jernigan honed his culinary skills. This bouillabaisse is brimming with mussels, shrimp, Gulf fish, and smoked pork sausage from South Louisiana, served steaming with tarragon cream and a splash of Pernod, an anise-flavored aperitif. Don’t forget to request extra charred focaccia bread to soak up every drop of that rich sauce.

For a fantastic steak, head inland to Miramar Beach. Don’t be put off by the shopping center parking lot; Bijoux is a well-loved dining spot perfect for special occasions and actually has a dress code (no shorts, please). It’s a white-tablecloth establishment where you can swirl and sniff your wine, yet the atmosphere is relaxed. Laughter fills the air, the dim lighting from modern glass orbs flatters everyone, and any spilled martini will go unnoticed.

What makes me smile is that the windows are adorned with white chiffon curtains to hide the fact that we’re in a shopping center. Yet, no one seems to care because the 20-ounce Cowboy Ribeye ($69), seared in duck fat with fingerling potatoes and mushroom ragout, is simply outstanding. Share it with your date, and you’ll still enjoy a complete steak dinner.

Bar

Pescado boasts an amazing rooftop bar with breathtaking Gulf views and is one of the few spots that stays open until 11pm. With live music most nights, it has a lively, club-like atmosphere that's a favorite among the Rosemary Beach crowd. Speaking of that crowd, you’ll see people dressed like they stepped out of a Vineyard Vines catalog: Bermuda shorts, large earrings, and a bright, seasonal cocktail in hand. I highly recommend Tomorrow's Pain ($17), crafted with Castle & Key gin, serrano, cucumber, cilantro, and lime, stirred and served in a martini glass – leave the pain for tomorrow!

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