Local Delights: top dining and drinking spots in San Sebastián

San Sebastián is celebrated as one of the finest culinary destinations globally. Having resided in this stunning seaside city for 15 years and savoring its fresh seafood, exquisite preserves, and delightful pintxos (tapas), I can confidently affirm that this acclaim is well-earned.

Need proof? Look no further than the fact that San Sebastián frequently vies with Tokyo for the highest number of Michelin stars per capita. And let’s not forget Pintxos. There’s no dining experience quite like moving from bar to bar, sipping wine paired with scrumptious, affordable small plates.

The exceptional dining in my adopted city goes beyond just stars and snacks. San Sebastián’s contemporary culinary scene is deeply rooted in the local Basque culture, which honors tradition, nature’s cycles, and local farming. The chefs who propelled Basque cuisine into the spotlight in the 1970s (including Arzak and Subijana) were instrumental in the rise of haute cuisine in Spain, paving the way for the renowned El Bullí and transforming the country into a culinary force.

While researching for my two cookbooks, I’ve discovered that this city is always evolving, but here are some of my favorite places to visit right now.

Breakfast 

In Spain, breakfast typically consists of just coffee and toast, or, in the north, a croissant. One of my favorite pastries in town is the walnut croissant from Galparsoro. Another favorite is the gateau basque, a traditional almond flour pâte sablée (pastry crust) filled with cherries or cream – Pariés serves the finest in town. 

Brunch is gradually becoming popular locally, expanding options for breakfast enthusiasts. A fresh addition to the scene is Xauen Café, a cozy café with upscale urban flair and a diverse menu featuring specialty coffee, Turkish-style eggs, yogurt and granola bowls, and refreshing smoothies.

Coffee 

Slowly but surely, specialty coffee is gaining traction in San Sebastián. In the Centro area, Old Town Coffee is your go-to spot, operated by seasoned coffee enthusiasts. Over in Gros, be sure to visit Simona Specialty Coffee Club, where the flat whites are outstanding and the atmosphere is bright and airy.

If you crave a richer roast or the authentic taste of Spanish café con leche (coffee with milk), look no further than Cafes Angiozar, celebrating nearly a century in business. This quaint shop holds its ground in the central Gros neighborhood, serving traditional Spanish torrefacto coffee, which, despite its mixed reputation, truly reflects the history of coffee in Spain.

Lunch 

Embracing Spanish dining customs is key, as lunch here is typically the most substantial meal of the day—essential for digestion, or so they say (though I suspect it's to ensure plenty of time for post-meal gin and tonics).

If Michelin stars entice you to San Sebastián, you have eight stellar restaurants to choose from. The tasting menu at Arzak is a standout, celebrated for its excellence as a three-Michelin-star venue established by a pioneer of Basque cuisine. For those seeking something less extensive, Rekondo is among the town's finest dining experiences. Its founder, Txomin, began an impressive Spanish wine collection long before it became trendy, and now boasts a cellar ranked in Europe’s top five, with a wine list that surpassed 200 pages! Enjoying a dish of txipirones en su tinta (baby squid in ink) paired with a 1964 Rioja on their terrace is pure bliss.

If you’re looking for a more central and laid-back atmosphere, I often find myself drawn back to Arenales. This charming spot, run by an Argentinian couple, offers a concise chalkboard menu of small plates alongside some of the finest natural wines in the city.

Aperitivo

My personal paradise is the aperitif, or aperitivo (I even founded a society dedicated to vermouth!). I’ve compiled a great list of spots for pre-dinner drinks. When the weather is pleasant and I don’t mind taking a taxi, the ultimate destination is Akelarre's terrace. They host a fantastic cocktail pop-up by one of the city's first mixologists, Patxi Troitino, on a sleek patio offering endless sea views. In town, for vermouth and some people-watching, I enjoy Txurrut, where you can savor a preparado, an enhanced red vermouth crafted with Cynar, Campari, Nonin, and more.

Dinner 

Had a big lunch? No worries! Pintxos are perfect for dinner and can be tailored to your appetite. Originating in San Sebastián, hopping between the city's bars is essential. Begin at Casa Valles, which opens early and is renowned for the iconic gilda pintxo (usually made with manzanilla olives, savory anchovies, and Spanish Guindilla pepper). Next, visit Txepetxa, where you’ll find the world’s tastiest vinegar-marinated anchovy (not a fan? Get ready to change your mind). Borda Berri should be your next destination for exquisite small plates, like Idiazabal cheese risotto and succulent braised beef cheeks. If you’re still feeling peckish, don’t miss the must-try porcini mushrooms with egg yolk at the Bourdain-approved Ganbara and wrap up your evening with a slice of Basque cheesecake (yes, that delicious Basque cheesecake) at La Viña. Remember the mantra: one bar, one pintxo, one drink, then move on!

Bar 

The night in Spain stretches long. The first phase often includes an after-dinner digestif, usually a gin and tonic. This isn’t the same gin-and-tonic you’re familiar with in America or England – think fishbowl size, premium gin, oversized ice cubes, and artisanal tonic water. My favorite place, boasting over 150 gins, is La Gintonería. For the most creative cocktails in town, visit Arraun, an intimate speakeasy on the outskirts of Old Town, where you can enjoy drinks infused with Sichuan pepper or topped with a cloud of cotton candy.

If you reach the second phase of Spanish nightlife (2 AM until dawn), one of the liveliest venues is Gu, a discoteca overlooking the Playa de La Concha, where the music thumps, the drinks are good, and locals eagerly line up to get in.