The overnight train journey from Venice to Rome was a fantastic way to save both time and money.
Golden light danced on the dark waters of the Grand Canal as we stepped onto the platform in front of Venice’s Santa Lucia station.
At 10:30pm, only the occasional private water taxi glided around the canal’s curves, and the tranquility allowed us to hear the gentle lapping of waves against the wooden dock. Groups of young people lounged on the steps leading to the station entrance, the sweet scent of marijuana in the air, skateboards thumping against the ground. Vendors tossed colorful toys into the night sky, beckoning families wandering nearby with gelato.
Inside the station, all shops and cafes were shuttered, while travelers hunched in doorways, checking their phones or pacing the concourse, scanning the screens for updates.
Restlessness filled the air as I wandered and scanned the platforms for headlights, my five-year-old daughter perched on my shoulder, her godfather managing our bags. A buzz of excitement surrounded us. The atmosphere felt different at night; unlike the daytime when travelers moved with ease and intent, now people were lingering, watching, stretching, glancing at their watches—willing the minutes to fly until they could board and embark on their journey.
Our train awaited us at the quiet Santa Lucia station in Venice © Monisha RajeshWe were set to board the Intercity Notte train to Rome. With just a single day to explore the capital before heading to Palermo, we opted for the overnight service that departs shortly after 11 PM, arriving in Rome by 6:30 AM. While the daytime Frecciarossa takes four hours for the 325-mile (525km) journey, with tickets priced from €150 for two adults and a child in standard class, we found that three tickets in a four-person couchette on the sleeper train were only €10 more – a practical choice when you consider hotel costs.
As I glanced around, it was clear we weren’t alone in this choice. A father and his young son, with a teddy bear strapped to a wheelie bag, stood nearby, while a family with two toddlers in a double stroller were also stacking their luggage. Managing sleepy kids in bunk beds seemed far easier than trying to keep them entertained for four hours.
It seemed like a brilliant plan on paper. But would the journey go as smoothly as anticipated?
Our neat and well-equipped compartment on the overnight Intercity Notte train © Monisha RajeshFifteen minutes before we set off, the train rolled into the platform, and the small crowd dispersed to find their assigned carriages. For added comfort and privacy, we had reserved a three-person compartment for €210. Upon entering, we discovered pre-made beds, a hidden sink, and what appeared to be a mini commissary stocked with six cans of mineral water, two cartons of orange juice, croissants, snacks, and three boxes of Grisbi (chocolate shortbread filled with cream). There was also a 'man deluxe kit' featuring slippers, a toothbrush, a razor, soap, hand gel, and tissues, while the 'woman deluxe kit' offered similar items but included cotton pads and earbuds instead of the razor. It felt like staying in a capsule hotel.
As the train pulled away, my 5-year-old was still wide awake © Monisha RajeshAfter a light dinner, my daughter was now wide awake, perched at the foot of the berth and enjoying her first Grisbi. She watched the platform fade away, waving at the friends and family of others as we departed on schedule, the lights of ships on the Venetian Lagoon shimmering in the darkness. With no dining car available, passengers crowded the corridor, squeezing past each other to brush their teeth and prepare for bed. Within 15 minutes, the train was enveloped in silence, save for the rhythmic thump of the wheels.
Traveling parallel to the freeway, the train maintained a steady pace. However, after leaving Padua at midnight, it surged forward, racing past the commune of Montegrotto Terme – where the Duomo of St Peter was beautifully illuminated on the right, golden lights cascading down the hills. Sitting cross-legged by the window, I watched the shadows of forests drift over the tracks and the towering silhouette of Monte Ricco before the train squealed into Monselice. At this point, small socked feet appeared from the ladder: my daughter opted to snuggle in my berth, which was spacious enough for both of us. On my way to the restroom, I passed the family with toddlers, the parents pouring wine into paper cups, while the girls slept soundly in one berth. Success!
We reached Rome in time to toss coins into the Trevi Fountain by 8 AM © Getty Images / iStockphotoAround 6 AM, a knock on the door heralded hot coffee. Beyond the blinds, the navy sky met a stunning mist that enveloped the forest like a scarf. A glimmer of golden moonlight danced alongside us as we sped through the suburbs. Empty stations whizzed by, the horizon lightening with each passing moment. As we passed warehouses, factories, and apartment blocks still shrouded in darkness at dawn, the train slowed into Roma Termini, the city just beginning to stir. It was 6:15 AM.
While it’s lovely to arrive with an entire day ahead of you, navigating the streets with young children and luggage before a 3 PM check-in can be challenging. After some research, I discovered that The Hoxton lets online guests choose their check-in time—at any hour of the day. A quick 10-minute taxi ride took us to the hotel, where we were settled and refreshed by 7, enjoying fried eggs and Tuscan sausage by 7:30, and tossing coins into the Trevi Fountain by 8.
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Evaluation :
5/5