Local Delights: Top spots for dining and drinking in Istanbul

From quick street bites to leisurely breakfasts and lively nights at meyhane (taverns), Istanbul is a city that thrives on culinary experiences. New eateries are continually emerging while beloved establishments remain bustling, even amidst the economic challenges in Türkiye that have driven food prices up.

While sharing a deep-rooted love for traditional Turkish cuisine, Istanbul locals are equally enthusiastic about global food trends, whether it’s a surge in burger joints or the popularity of San Sebastian cheesecake. In my 16 years here, I’ve found my palate particularly thrilled by the influx of restaurants showcasing cuisines from various immigrant communities, from Indonesian to Yemeni.

Here’s a curated list of some of my favorite dining spots to bring friends when they visit Istanbul.

Breakfast

In Istanbul, breakfast can be as straightforward as a simit, the popular sesame seed-covered bread ring found at street vendors and bakeries throughout the city. However, on weekends, the focus shifts to a leisurely serpme kahvaltı, an extravagant spread of small dishes—olives, cheeses, jams, pastries, eggs, and more—that invites sharing and savoring. For a memorable breakfast with Bosphorus views, head to the cafes lining the shoreline near Rumeli Hisarı fortress; my personal favorite is the charming Kale Café, especially the slightly worn-out location at No 2, closer to the Bosphorus bridge.

Near the city center, there’s a street in the Beşiktaş neighborhood dedicated entirely to breakfast. While some trendy spots prioritize style over substance, the classic Çakmak Kahvaltı Salonu remains the top choice for menemen (soft eggs with tomatoes and peppers) and sucuklu yumurta (pan-fried eggs with spicy beef sausage). Be sure to order a side of bal kaymak, a thick cream drizzled with honey.

Arrive early at both locations to beat the late-morning weekend rush.

Coffee and tea

When it comes to traditional Turkish coffee (türk kahve), Mandabatmaz is unbeatable—a Beyoğlu institution where coffee is brewed over an open flame in a long-handled metal pot known as a cezve, resulting in a thick and rich beverage. Originally a cozy one-room cafe established in 1967, it has expanded into the adjoining building, but enjoying your coffee at the alley seats remains the best way to experience the atmosphere.

Despite the surge of trendy cafes serving flat whites and iced lattes in neighborhoods like Karaköy, Cihangir, and Moda, Türkiye is still predominantly a tea-drinking nation, boasting the highest per capita consumption in the world. The Tarihi Çınaraltı Çay Bahçesi in Çengelköy offers an unbeatable view along the Bosphorus on the Asian side for enjoying your tea.

Lunch

When I'm exploring art galleries and museums in the Beyoğlu area, I often stop by the vibrant buffet at Hayvore for a quick meal. Their Black Sea specialties like karalahana çorbası (kale soup), hamsili pilav (rice with anchovies), and the creamy pastry dessert laz böreği are my favorites.

For a more focused meal, I love gathering friends and heading to the Fatih district, just west of the Laleli tram stop, where the dining scene is enriched by various immigrant communities. Here, you can savor Syrian fatteh, a comforting blend of chickpeas, pita chips, and garlicky tahini yogurt sauce at Al Muallim, or indulge in spicy green beans and laghman hand-pulled noodles at the Uyghur restaurant Yüksel.

Food markets

There’s no better way to delve into the ingredients that define Turkish cuisine—ranging from vibrant dried eggplant skins to jars filled with pickled delights and artisan cheeses—than by visiting an open-air food market. It's a perfect way to spend an hour or two, wandering around, observing, and sampling until you discover the best offerings to take home. The stalls at Kadıköy Produce Market and those near Kadınlar Pazarı square in Fatih are established highlights, while most neighborhoods host their own semt pazar (local market) on a weekly basis. The Wednesday Market near the Fatih Mosque is one of the largest.

Dinner

No visit to Istanbul is complete without experiencing a meyhane night: a vibrant evening sampling a variety of meze, hot appetizers, and fish, typically paired with rakı, Turkey’s strong anise-flavored spirit, or wine. Asmalı Cavit in Beyoğlu is a traditional favorite; be sure to book a table (+90 212 292 49 50) in the bustling, memorabilia-filled upstairs to enjoy the full atmosphere. Along the Golden Horn, the charmingly shabby Cibalikapı Balıkçısı is another popular spot for meze and seafood, featuring unique dishes like mung beans with pomegranate molasses or sun-dried tomatoes stuffed with sea bass.

For a more modern pan-Mediterranean dining experience, I recommend Salon Galata in Karaköy, which boasts a beautifully vintage, high-ceilinged dining area along with creative salads, local cheese platters, hearty pasta dishes, and a tahini soufflé for dessert.

Dinner reservations are generally not difficult to secure on weeknights; however, on weekends, if you haven’t made a reservation, it’s wise to arrive early as locals tend to dine late. Expect a nice dinner in Istanbul to cost at least 1000–1500TL ($30–45) per person, more if you plan on drinking alcohol.

Bar

While Kadıköy may have taken the lead in Istanbul's nightlife, particularly among the younger crowd, my loyalty remains with Beyoğlu. Behind Galatasaray High School, party-goers fill the short street of Hayriye Caddesi until the late hours, drawn to vibrant spots like Noh Radio Bar, where DJs play electronic beats, and Tavern, celebrated for its inventive cocktails.