Luxury restaurants are no longer accepting reservations, but they are still processing orders

Just a week ago, luck was often the only factor that could help you secure a reservation at some of the most exclusive dining spots worldwide.

Today, neither fortune nor reputation will guarantee diners a table at those once hard-to-book venues.

The coronavirus pandemic has completely disrupted the dining industry, leading high-end restaurants in cities like London, Paris, New York, Los Angeles, and Miami to close their doors. Some closures are temporary, while others, like New York's Gotham Bar & Grill, have shut down for good as of March 14.

While some may technically be closed to in-person dining, they are still operating and accepting orders.

Only a few restaurants continue to operate with a 'business as usual' approach.

As of March 19, some rare exceptions like Daniel Humm's new Davies and Brook at Claridge’s in London, Wolfgang Puck's CUT in Singapore, and The French Laundry in Napa Valley have remained open.

The closure of restaurants, with uncertain reopening dates and significant staff layoffs, has captured widespread attention.

The extensive list includes Humm’s three Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park, Alain Ducasse’s Michelin-starred restaurant at the Plaza Athenee in Paris, and Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura in Beverly Hills, helmed by the renowned three-star Italian chef, Massimo Bottura.

To-go or not to-go?

Daniel Boulud, with 16 restaurants worldwide in cities like New York, London, Toronto, Montreal, and Boston, has largely halted operations. As of the time of writing, only two of his venues remained open: Café Boulud in Palm Beach and DB Bistro & Oyster Bar in Singapore.

“I shut down even before any official mandates were in place,” Boulud explains. “The only way to beat this virus is by isolating, and that’s impossible if your restaurant is still running.”

Unlike many of his colleagues who have turned to takeout and delivery since their forced closures, Boulud has opted to avoid that route.

“I would consider offering takeout if I could ensure the safety of my customers and staff, but at this moment, I don’t believe I can,” he shares.

With Boulud’s empire shuttered, more than 800 employees are now out of work, temporarily at least, a challenge that countless restaurant owners globally are facing. For instance, Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group laid off 2,000 workers this week due to a lack of revenue.

The financial strain that upscale restaurants are facing due to their closures is severe, according to Hillary Dixler Canavan, the restaurant editor at Eater.com.

“High-end restaurants that have closed are losing money rapidly,” she explains. “In the US, these businesses have yet to receive government economic relief, and while some may find temporary financial relief by shifting to a takeout model, upscale restaurants generally don’t make a profit from to-go food unless they can sell in high volumes. These establishments were never designed for takeout and delivery.”

Shifting to takeout

However, some restaurant owners and chefs, particularly in the US, are willing to venture into this new territory. Instead of the expensive menu items diners are used to, they are now offering more affordable options for at-home dining.

The popular Greek restaurant, Avra, which operates three locations, has closed its Beverly Hills and Midtown East Manhattan spots but has begun offering pickup and delivery from its Avra Madison location on Manhattan’s East 60th Street this week.

The menu features appetizers like a baked spinach pie with feta and leeks, as well as a tomato-heavy Greek salad. Main courses include a whole branzino with sautéed wild greens and skewered swordfish, with baklava and chocolate yogurt cheesecake for dessert.

“This is a time of crisis, and we want dining to remain an enjoyable experience at an affordable price,” says co-owner Nick Tsoulos. “We have a dedicated team and loyal customers, and our approach lets us keep some employees working while allowing our diners to continue enjoying our food,”

Milos, another high-end Greek restaurant with eight locations worldwide, has closed all but one of its locations, with the exception of its Manhattan West 55th Street branch, where a new takeout menu was introduced this week.

The menu includes Greek favorites like grilled fish, along with a selection of 35 wines that owner Costas Spiliadis is offering at retail prices instead of the usual 60% restaurant markup.

The high-end Korean steakhouse Cote in New York City is now offering wine bottles at retail prices as part of its new takeout service. Owner Simon Kim notes that only magnum bottles are available for purchase.

“We plan to rotate our wine selection each week based on the best deals we can find,” Kim explains. “Our goal is to pass these savings on to our customers.”

In Beverly Hills, Wolfgang Puck introduced a curbside family meal menu at his renowned California cuisine restaurant, Spago, this week.

“We’ve always offered takeout for customers who requested it, but now we’ve significantly expanded the service,” says Puck. “We’re aiming to keep it affordable and tasty, but we’ll only know we’ve truly succeeded if customers are eager to order the menu again once we reopen.”

For those who love dining at upscale restaurants, ordering a to-go meal from a place like Spago may be the perfect way to recreate that experience at home.

Food brings comfort.

Offering to-go meals at slightly lower prices than on-site dining — regardless of who's ordering — helps fine dining establishments stay connected with their existing customers, attract new ones, and engage with the local community, says food influencer Kimia Kalbasi, known on Instagram as @kimiakravings.

“Food provides comfort, and it’s heartwarming when a high-end restaurant steps up to offer comfort during such challenging times,” she says. “In times of widespread economic hardship, no one craves extravagant, expensive meals. Instead, we long for simple, comforting food that soothes our souls.”

Canavan, from Eater.com, suggests that ordering to-go meals from these restaurants could be the crucial support they need to survive until they’re able to reopen.

“Anyone with extra income should consider supporting these businesses by ordering their food or even buying gift cards for future use,” she advises. “Without this help, many may not survive.”

For those fortunate enough to afford upscale meal delivery instead of the usual takeout like pizza or Pad Thai, these restaurant offerings provide a great alternative.