Lyaness: The reinvention of the world’s top bar

In 2018, celebrated London bartender Ryan Chetiyawardana was on top of the bar scene, recognized as a true pioneer.

His cocktail bar on the South Bank, Dandelyan, had collected nearly every major award, earning rave reviews from both patrons and critics for its avant-garde drinks inspired by the theme 'Modern Botany.'

But just six months after being crowned the best bar in the world by the World’s 50 Best Bars, Chetiyawardana made an unexpected move—he closed Dandelyan’s doors for good.

After the shock of the announcement, cocktail lovers and industry experts began to analyze the reasoning behind this bold decision.

Dandelyan's botanical cocktail theme, paired with an impressively contemporary sustainability initiative, seemed perfectly in tune with the cultural moment.

The stylish modern hotel bar, with sweeping views of the River Thames, was not only an aesthetic triumph but also a commercial success, serving up to 1,000 intricate cocktails daily. It had become the ultimate moneymaker in the bar world.

But Ryan Chetiyawardana, known in the industry as Mr. Lyan, is no stranger to making bold moves.

He's built his reputation on taking risks—remember, this is the same person who opened White Lyan in 2013, a cocktail bar that refused to use shakers or citrus, a revolutionary concept that shocked the cocktail world.

It was probably the sheer audacity of the idea that convinced Chetiyawardana that it was the right decision to make.

While many lamented the closure of Dandelyan, it gave rise to Lyaness.

"It was an opportunity to evolve from a place of positivity, not defeat, and to keep pushing our boundaries," explains Chetiyawardana.

"There’s no staying timeless at the forefront. London craves what feels fresh and relevant. So, why not embrace change? It quickly became clear that Dandelyan had to be put to rest."

The new pride of London?

So, has the reinvention been successful? Since Lyaness opened, it has been swamped, attracting more than just the typical crowds for a new bar.

The atmosphere is now more dynamic and bustling, with a lively vibe, a stark contrast to the laid-back feel that Dandelyan once offered.

Though Lyaness doesn’t follow a grand theme (it’s concept-free), it compensates with an infectious energy that aligns perfectly with its vibrant blue décor and energetic playlist.

The name Lyaness, like the other bars in this collection, draws from Chetiyawardana’s Mr. Lyan persona, while signaling a fresh new direction.

"Lionesses are the leaders, the hunters, the trailblazers—that’s what Lyaness is all about: seeking out new flavors," says Chetiyawardana. "We’ve honed the space, given it an edge, and brought in more energy and excitement."

But simply changing the name, repainting the walls, and curating a fresh Spotify playlist doesn’t automatically make it a brand new bar.

To prove that Lyaness wasn’t just a rebranding exercise by a marketing team, it had to bring something more meaningful to the table.

And it has; the bar’s inventive cocktails have definitely sparked conversations.

While Dandelyan’s cocktails were often abstract and cerebral, Lyaness’ menu is more inviting and accessible.

Shattering boundaries

The bar’s goal is to dismantle the barriers around cocktails, encouraging people to view the ingredients with the same consideration they give to food.

"People know how to approach cooking, but they still have hesitation when it comes to cocktails," says Chetiyawardana.

"So how do we get people to see ingredients the same way? There’s no real difference between food and drink – we’re simply choosing to present ingredients as drinks rather than dishes."

This vision is best brought to life through familiar ingredients. The Lyaness menu is divided into sections, each showcasing essential cocktail bar staples, with three cocktail ideas based on each core ingredient.

"We’re focusing on the unexpected side of these ingredients, digging deeper to discover their full potential," says Chetiyawardana.

"We’re working with the common banana – the Cavendish – but that doesn’t mean we can’t unlock complex, layered flavors."

"We’re utilizing slow Maillard reactions, curing, and experimenting with the skins – extracting different flavor profiles and blending them, transitioning from smoky and deep to light, tropical, and floral."

Lyaness’s Infinite Banana cordial adds a smoky, tropical twist to the Double Painkiller cocktail, elevating this otherwise traditional Tiki-style drink.

Their pineapple concoction is another common ingredient transformed, reimagined as it is to restore the tropical fruit to its 'Victorian glory.'

Innovative cocktails

Purple Pineapple, deconstructed and reimagined, is a deep dive into the full range of flavors – including the delicate, fleeting 'purple' notes that are often overshadowed by the usual pineapple sweetness.

Next up is Lyaness’s Prelude, a surprising mix of vodka, Purple Pineapple, grass, Aecorn aperitif, lactic acid, and soda. It’s clear, crisp, balanced, and nothing like the typical pineapple drink you’d expect.

Meanwhile, Ultra Raspberry puts a twist on the classic summer berry, moving away from the usual jammy taste to highlight the fruit’s tartness and umami.

If that all sounds straightforward – at least on paper – Lyaness also has its quirks.

Onyx is a one-of-a-kind ingredient created in partnership with the Danish experimental distillery Empirical Spirits, pushing your taste boundaries well beyond the familiar.

The spotlight here is on the unexplored flavors that emerge during fermentation, before alcohol is even created – imagine something like kombucha.

Black koji is used as a botanical rather than a base ingredient, with birchwood, hibiscus, and hops also making their way into Onyx.

Then there's the Aromatised Milk Wine – imagine sour milk without the heaviness of dairy, infused with flavors reminiscent of vermouth, layered with botanical undertones.

You can sample it in the Progressive Pendennis Club, which also features mezcal, apricot, lime, and Peychaud bitters – a drink for the more adventurous.

That said, it’s likely that the drinks featuring familiar ingredients – banana, pineapple, and raspberry – will be the most popular and best-sellers at Lyaness.

In fact, that’s the magic of Lyaness. It draws you in by transforming the seemingly mundane into something extraordinary.

Lyaness, 20 Upper Ground, South Bank, London SE1 9PD