Lyon in 5 Shops: a journey through wine, cheese, and literary cafes

Once a city famed for outfitting royal wardrobes through the silk trade, Lyon has transformed significantly.

Today, it thrives as a hub for creators, where sewing machines continue to hum in the historic Croix-Rousse silk district and artists gather by the river to depict the charmingly crowded architecture of Vieux Lyon. Renowned for its gourmet offerings, the city boasts exquisite wine from Beaujolais and the Rhône Valley, as well as cheese from Auvergne and Savoie, and fine poultry from Bresse.

Shopping in Lyon can be a challenge due to its limited hours. Many independent shops close from Sunday to Tuesday, and staff often take lengthy lunch breaks on other days. Here, writer Anna Richards highlights her favorite stores—but be sure to verify their opening hours before visiting.

Best spot for souvenirs: Satriale

In Lyon, it’s practically a crime not to pick up some wine. Founded by five friends united by their passions for wine and music, Satriale combines a wine shop and vinyl store with a cozy bar. They focus on promoting lesser-known wine regions, offering selections from Auvergne, the Ardèche, and even Austria, while featuring fewer options from Bordeaux and Bourgogne, though local wines from Lyon are plentiful.

The ambiance is enhanced by a record player, allowing you to engage in real-life Shazam and purchase the vinyl playing as you choose your wine. All wines here are natural and the stock rotates frequently, but I highly recommend the house wine, Satriale. You can fill your own bottle from the tap at just €14, or €13 if you return your previous bottle, with the wine sourced in large kegs from a vineyard in Savoie.

Searching for things to do in Lyon? Discover the city’s must-see attractions

Top local design shop: Les Artpenteuses

Featuring a collective of 13 artists, all hailing from no farther than Vienne (35km/22 miles), Les Artpenteuses offers a vibrant assortment of ceramics, cyanotypes, apparel, prints, and recycled glass items. Each month, the shop highlights a local designer outside of the collective in its window display. It's my favorite place for gifts, so I often pick something different each visit, though I have my eye on a handmade bumbag (€64) for myself—it's nearly as roomy as a handbag and made from delightful corduroy fabric.

Best secondhand/rental shop: Les débraillé.e.s

Consider this: you could arrive in Lyon without any luggage, especially if you're flying with a budget airline. Les débraillé.e.s offers a flexible month-long rental deal for €49.99, allowing you to borrow three pieces at a time and swap them as often as you wish. Just remember to buy a suitcase for your return, as everything is also available for purchase if you find something you love. Catering exclusively to women, this shop defies the typical French couture monochrome with vibrant shades of tangerine, magenta, and royal blue. I can't dictate your choices, but I'd suggest renting first for a trial run.

Top food spot: Au Chien Sous La Table

Known as Au Chien Sous La Table, or 'The Dog Under the Table,' this cheese shop offers the finest cheese I’ve ever savored. Trust me, I’ve tried plenty! When a friend brought a creamy Cœur de Neufchâtel to a gathering, I found myself daydreaming about it for days. My dreams intensified upon learning it’s just €5 each, and the shop also prepares custom cheese platters. Inside their towering fridges, you'll find massive wheels of Comté, almond-shaped Provençale cheese infused with thyme, and tubs of cervelle de canut, a soft Lyonnais cheese that's yogurt-like in texture and seasoned with spring onions and herbs, humorously dubbed 'silk workers’ brain.' The shop's name pays homage to the owner's dogs, who are regularly treated to cheese rinds under the table—lucky pups indeed.

Searching for more dining and drinking options in Lyon? Check out our top picks

Top bookshop: Damn Fine Bookstore

For me, bookshop-cafés are pure bliss, and Damn Fine Bookstore was among the first spots I discovered when I arrived in Lyon three years ago. It always features the latest must-reads, predominantly in English, but you’ll also find a selection in Spanish, German, and Italian. The quirky café tucked in the back invites you to settle down with a coffee and your new finds (or ponder your next purchase). Don’t miss the chance to learn new words during a restroom break; the walls are adorned with dictionary pages. My most recent buy was The Rabbit Hutch by Tess Gunty for €12, a fictional exploration of life in a social housing complex in Indiana.