Navigating Italian Autogrill Rest Stops
Autogrill is a name that has become synonymous with Italian highway rest stops, dominating the scene with a 65 percent market share in Italy. Its competitors, Chef Express and Sarni, hold only about 6 percent each, trailing far behind.
While American visitors often rave about Autogrill’s food, claiming it surpasses that of U.S. rest stops, the reality is more mixed. The buffet offers some decent meat and vegetable dishes, but the high praise is often exaggerated. Many Autogrill products are simply mass-produced and industrially made, with the true appeal being their convenience on long road trips.
Autogrill’s rise to prominence can be traced back to northern Italy’s early confectionery giants like Pavesi, Motta, and Alemagna. These companies, initially small bakeries, expanded in the 1920s and 1930s through clever marketing and mass production. Their success with cookies and panettone led them to innovate with rest stop dining, catering to the growing car culture of post-war Italy.
In the 1970s, the Italian auto industry suffered a severe crisis, impacting rest stops as well. The Istituto per la Ricostruzione Industriale (IRI) stepped in to save the failing companies Pavesi, Motta, and Alemagna, merging them into what is now known as Autogrill. The Benetton family acquired a significant stake in the 1990s and continues to be the largest shareholder. They also have a major interest in the Italian highway system, and by the way, you can thank Motta and Alemagna for the less-than-stellar cornetto at Italian cafes.
Autogrill has grown into one of the largest food-service networks globally, boasting 4,000 locations across 31 countries. Beyond their Autogrill stores, they also manage Ciao Ristorante and Spizzico brands, prevalent in Italian airports and train stations. Additionally, they run franchises for Starbucks, McDonald’s, Burger King, Outback Steakhouse, and Eataly.
Despite its global reach, Autogrill remains closely associated with Italian road trips. Italy has the highest density of rest stops in Europe, averaging one every 27 kilometers (about 17 miles), compared to 47 kilometers in France, 64 kilometers in Spain, and 70 kilometers in Germany. Many of Italy’s millions of drivers inevitably stop at one of Autogrill’s 600-plus locations.
I often find it challenging to order at Autogrill, Sarni, or Chef Express due to the often industrial and unappetizing nature of their food. Here’s how I navigate long drives and make the most of these stops.
Select wisely. Jonathan Khoo/FlickrDining options at Autogrill:
Fresh and Cooked Vegetables: Explore the salad bar or steam tables in the buffet for a variety of fresh salads or cooked vegetables. These can be enjoyed as a standalone meal or as a side with your main course.
Roasted Meats: Roasted chicken and beef are standout options at the restaurant buffet, offering hearty and satisfying main courses.
Pocket Coffee and Espresso to Go: Ferrero’s Pocket Coffee features a liquid coffee core encased in chocolate, providing a convenient caffeine boost for travelers who prefer to avoid frequent rest stop breaks.
Club Sandwich: A twist on the classic, this layered sandwich combines elements of the Italian tramezzino and the American club, featuring chicken, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and a mustard-mayo spread on white bread.
Caffè Macchiato: Due to high coffee service volumes, Autogrill’s espresso machines often fall short on cleanliness, leading to drinks that may taste off. Enhance your espresso with a splash of steamed milk to balance out any undesirable flavors.
Fruit Salad: The pastry section’s assortment of stale muffins is complemented by a fresh option like this fruit salad, available in cups and featuring melon, strawberries, grapes, and apples.
Rustichella: A unique take on the calzone, this flatbread is filled with mozzarella and vegetables, with varying ingredients depending on the location. It’s best enjoyed when crisped up in the panini press.
Caprese: A classic sandwich with mozzarella, tomato, and herbs, served on a long roll.
Evaluation :
5/5