New Orleans Is Set to Share a New Narrative

It's late morning, the sun shining bright and warm, and I’ve just arrived at Tchoupitoulas Street, a largely unremarkable stretch of New Orleans. Standing on the sidewalk, I watch as cars zoom by and gaze at a large mural before me. It's colorful and lively, rich in detail and impressive in size. Yet, it’s still a work in progress, much like the city itself.

New Orleans native artist and educator Jamar Pierre initially envisioned the Tchoupitoulas Flood Wall Mural in 2018, after being chosen by the NOLA Foundation to create a piece for the city’s tricentennial celebration. That artwork, titled Resilience, inspired Pierre to take on a more ambitious project, and after navigating various bureaucratic hurdles, he began his work.

Once finished, the mural will illustrate over 300 years of New Orleans history, starting with the Houma Indigenous peoples and extending through the Louisiana Purchase and the 1815 Battle of New Orleans. The completed sections already feature figures like the Ursuline nuns, herbalist and voodoo practitioner Marie Laveau, and gospel singer Mahalia Jackson. Currently, less than 25 percent of the mural is complete, covering 1,200 of the planned 4,994 linear feet. Pierre hopes it will ultimately become one of the city’s most visited landmarks.

“It’s a lengthy journey,” Pierre shares as we stroll along the mural’s nearly mile-long expanse, passing by images of the legendary trumpeter and vocalist Louis Armstrong and the 1984 Louisiana World Exposition, alongside depictions of mermaids and alligators emerging from vibrant blue waters. “If you aspire to create something monumental and historical, it cannot be rushed. This will be our Eiffel Tower. This will be our Statue of Liberty.”

The architecture of New Orleans is unique: featuring shotgun houses, 19th-century cottages, and intricate wrought-iron balconies. Over 200 of the city’s buildings and districts are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. However, located in the Mississippi River Delta between the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans is particularly susceptible to climate change, with over half of its official 350-square mile area being water.

Almost two decades after Hurricane Katrina’s devastation in August 2005, residents of New Orleans still speak of it as if it occurred just yesterday. One afternoon, an Uber driver points out lingering flood damage on the side of his church. Another day, a bartender downtown expresses her heartbreak as she recounts how her mother moved to Texas after the hurricane and never felt safe enough to return. That’s the essence of history: it is not just a thing of the past.

Vue Orleans opened its doors in March 2022 within one of the tallest buildings in the city. The second floor features an interactive museum and movie theater dedicated to exploring New Orleans' rich history and culture, while the main highlight is the indoor and outdoor observatory deck on the 33rd and 34th floors, providing a 360-degree view of the skyline. From the lobby, I take the elevator to the terrace, which is 407 feet above ground. This marks my third visit to New Orleans, and as I gaze out at the sprawling streets, homes, churches, and bridges that were once damaged, I reflect on how the city consistently radiates joy and vibrancy. Only a place that has faced destruction, been deemed lost, and rebuilt time and again knows how to cherish each day as a precious gift.

Having experienced New Orleans from above, I’m ready to return to street level. I stroll along Gravier Street and arrive 20 minutes later at Chapter IV, which opened in January 2023, founded by chef Edgar “Dook” Chase IV and his wife, Gretchen. This restaurant is the latest chapter in the Chase family’s rich culinary legacy in New Orleans, a journey that began nearly 80 years ago with Dook’s grandmother, the late Leah Chase. Often referred to as “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” Leah prepared meals for notable figures like Martin Luther King Jr. and writer-activist James Baldwin. In 2008, she famously halted Barack Obama’s attempt to spice up her gumbo with hot sauce, insisting he try it as she intended first. (“I had to reprimand him,” she later remarked.)

Self-taught under his grandmother and formally educated at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Chase expresses his determination to restore the family legacy after witnessing the devastation of Hurricane Katrina on their business. “I want to continue that legacy that built my family up,” he shares. Inside Chapter IV, the decor is bright and inviting, featuring blue benches, fresh flowers, and original artwork from emerging Black artists. The clientele includes families, older couples enjoying dates, and professionals taking breaks. Chase makes his rounds, greeting nearly every diner and occasionally sitting down to chat. “Growing up, [my grandparents] instilled in us that true hospitality means serving our community,” Chase reflects. As I savor my first spoonful of gumbo—rich with shrimp, chicken, and slices of smoked spicy sausage—I can’t help but close my eyes in pleasure. For the next bite, I discreetly add a few drops of hot sauce, whispering silent apologies to Leah Chase.

From Chapter IV, I make my way a mile north to the New Orleans African American Museum (NOAAM) situated in the historic Tremé, recognized as the oldest Black neighborhood in the nation. Established in 1996, NOAAM faced several financial struggles during its early years and suffered significant damage during Hurricane Katrina; it reopened its doors in 2019. Occupying a site once home to a plantation and brickyard, the museum is set within a 19th-century Creole cottage and features African masks, beadwork, and an array of fine art and photography from local artists. Although the space is small, it maximizes every inch available. “Our mission is to illuminate the personal stories of Black New Orleanians to humanize the Black experience,” shares Gia M. Hamilton, a native of New Orleans and the executive director and chief curator of NOAAM since its reopening.

Spanning a two-acre campus, the museum showcases the artistic and cultural contributions of those in the African diaspora while educating visitors about the rich early history of New Orleans, known as Bulbancha or “the land of many tongues,” by its Indigenous Choctaw inhabitants.

As we sit next to the vibrantly adorned dresses and crowns of Black Masking Indian women, on loan from artist Cherice Harrison-Nelson, co-founder of the Mardi Gras Indian Hall of Fame, Hamilton shares, “We’ve crafted our programming for families who may not have felt at ease visiting a museum. Our emphasis is on education, accessibility, and challenging the narratives typically presented by the tourism sector.”

That evening, I make my way to dinner at LUFU (Let Us Feed U), a restaurant opened in July 2023 by chefs and founders Sarthak Samantray, Aman Kota, and Sachin Darade, who initially started as a pop-up. After completing culinary school, they relocated from India to New Orleans, seizing the chance to educate diners about the diverse flavors of Indian cuisine and contribute to the city’s vibrant food scene. LUFU is among over 40 new restaurants that have opened in 2023.

The menu at LUFU refreshes every six months. After savoring a Darjeeling old-fashioned (bourbon infused with tea and bitters), I decide on bhatura, a delightfully fluffy, fried bread from Punjab, and manso kosha, a Bengali goat dish served in a rich dark curry. As I near the end of the manso, I use my remaining bhatura to soak up the flavorful sauce, relishing every moment. With the sun setting, I stroll two blocks to the Rubenstein Hotel, ready to collapse into bed.

In 2021, the Museum of the Southern Jewish Experience opened its doors with a vital mission: to narrate the 350-year history of Jews in the South. One morning, I arrive shortly after it opens and spend a long time perusing the exhibits, the sole visitor at this early hour. The displays, featuring photographs, historical documents, and artifacts, are organized chronologically, tracing the journey from the arrival of immigrants in the 18th century to the involvement of Jewish individuals as abolitionists and slaveholders, culminating in their contributions to the civil rights movement of the 1960s. The museum also highlights modern Jewish communities across 13 Southern states, reflecting its commitment to including contemporary voices, as executive director Kenneth Hoffman explains to me.

Hoffman remarks, “We’re not merely a museum of Southern Jewish history; we represent the Southern Jewish experience. This narrative is ongoing and constantly evolving. It’s not solely focused on 19th-century peddlers. We are a living museum.”

An engaging exhibit invites guests to add to a growing digital quilt by crafting a square that symbolizes their identity. This initiative is inspired by the vibrant 'crazy quilt' at the museum, created in 1885 by the Ladies Sewing Circle of Temple B’nai Israel in Canton, Mississippi, linking visitors to their personal and collective identities. However, my attention is captured by a display behind the front desk featuring an array of mezuzot, small containers that typically hold a parchment scroll inscribed with a Hebrew blessing, mounted on the doorposts of observant Jewish homes. Donated by Jewish patrons from across the South, these mezuzot draw the admiration of an older couple who pause to appreciate them, commenting that they might one day contribute one of their own.

Hoffman expresses, “We aim to broaden people’s perceptions of what it means to be a Southerner, what it means to be a Jew, and ultimately, what it means to be an American.”

What does it truly mean to be American? As I delve into my days in New Orleans—established in 1718, one of the nation’s oldest cities, predating the country itself—I ponder this question while exiting the museum. I reflect on my initial experiences, savoring Creole and Indian cuisine and exploring the influences of the Black and Jewish diasporas. I consider how New Orleans, shaped by its unique geography, stands out as an extraordinary and singular American city. This geography has, in part, contributed to its historical tragedies, and it is this consciousness of both past and looming tragedies that imparts the city with a distinctive atmosphere found nowhere else.

Collaboration and creativity shine at Ayu Bakehouse, located on Frenchmen Street opposite Washington Square Park. Founded in 2022 by Samantha Weiss and Kelly Jacques, who crossed paths at New York’s International Culinary Center, Ayu (pronounced like “bayou”) specializes in small-batch pastries. The airy interior showcases a delightful array of muffuletta breadsticks alongside kaya buns, which feature a sweet coconut spread enveloped in laminated dough—an homage to Jacques’s Indonesian grandmother. (Jacques and Weiss describe Ayu’s offerings as “Southeast Asia meets the South.”) I find myself tempted to sample everything, nearly succeeding as I fill my bag with babka knots, breadsticks, and boudin boys: flaky croissant pockets stuffed with crumbled Cajun sausage and soft-boiled egg. I bring these treasures back to my hotel, sharing the bounty with two thrilled front desk clerks.

After breakfast, I take a stroll through the various unique neighborhoods of New Orleans. Reflecting on the diverse individuals I’ve encountered during my four-day visit—Hoffman, Hamilton, Jacques, and Weiss among them—locals and newcomers alike are actively finding ways to enrich the city. I’m moved by the unwavering determination of New Orleanians to create and recreate. This sentiment resonates: to admire the city’s charm is to recognize the trials New Orleans and its people have faced, as DJ Johnson, founder and owner of Baldwin & Co., later shares. “Experiencing hardship gives you a deeper appreciation for things,” he remarks. “I believe this resilience has shaped our culture, which is beautifully authentic and empathetic.”

Launched in February 2021 to enthusiastic crowds—Johnson recalls lines of eager customers snaking down the street during its inaugural week—Baldwin & Co., named in honor of writer and cultural critic James Baldwin, aims to uplift the local community: not just the Marigny area but the greater New Orleans region as well. Focusing on literature primarily authored by BIPOC writers, Baldwin & Co. also supports the arts through its foundation, hosting author events, story times, and book drives.

“When I envisioned this space, I was very purposeful,” Johnson, a New Orleans native, shares. “I wanted it to be more than just a place for consumption; I aimed for it to give back, enrich, and nurture the community.”

Later that afternoon, I head to Central City to visit a business deeply woven into the fabric of the community’s history and future. Originally opened by civil rights leader Frank Painia in 1939, the Dew Drop Inn evolved from a restaurant and barbershop into a hotel and nightclub, hosting legends like James Brown, Ray Charles, and Tina Turner. It also served as a welcoming venue for the city’s Black LGBTQ community, famously hosting the New Orleans Gay Ball in the 1950s and ‘60s, emceed by the renowned drag performer Patsy Vidalia.

Over the years, the Dew Drop Inn fell into significant disrepair. It suffered flooding during Hurricane Katrina and remained abandoned until local developer Curtis Doucette Jr. acquired it and invested $11 million into renovations. In March 2024, the Dew Drop Inn reopened its doors. With an outdoor pool and two suites overlooking the performance stage, the hotel aims to revitalize entertainment and tourism in Central City, a neighborhood known primarily for its parades, situated above the Garden District. “This community is on the path to revitalization,” Lauren Usher, Dew Drop’s director of communications, explains during our tour of the hotel. “I believe the Dew Drop can act as a catalyst to accelerate that process.”

That evening, I stepped into a transformed home in the fashionable Uptown area to experience the culinary creations of chef Serigne Mbaye. His restaurant, Dakar NOLA, was honored with the 2024 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant. Senegalese American Mbaye previously honed his skills in New York and San Francisco before returning to his childhood roots in Dakar. Upon his return to New Orleans, he launched Dakar NOLA as a pop-up in the Bywater neighborhood in 2020, later establishing it as a permanent location in November 2022. The dining setup encourages communal seating, and every dinner features a prix fixe menu with seven pescatarian courses presented by either Mbaye or his managing partner and wife, Effie Richardson. “In West African culture, we eat together as family, and sometimes your family is just your neighbor,” she explains.

The dining experience begins with ataya tea, followed by a fresh salad sourced from local farmers and seafood drizzled in a spicy Senegalese yassa sauce. While the menu changes regularly, it consistently highlights the often-overlooked West African influences on New Orleans cuisine. A standout dish is the “Last Meal,” featuring black-eyed pea soup with crispy rice, palm oil, and pieces of Louisiana blue crab, inspired by the meals provided to enslaved West Africans before their transport to the Americas.

As I enjoy my meal, I strike up conversations with my fellow diners: two lifelong friends who are both Black and three white women who make an annual trip together. Despite our different backgrounds and origins, we all feel grateful to be sharing this experience. By the time we reach the third hour of our meal, I realize that this dining occasion is unlike any I've had in New Orleans, yet it feels perfectly aligned with the city's ethos—where community is paramount, and residents are instigating change from within, intertwining the past and present. “This is our narrative, and this is who we are,” Mbaye reflects.

Where to explore next in NOLA

Dining & Beverages

A selection of restaurants, food halls, and accommodations to consider for your next visit to the Crescent City.

MaMou

Chef Tom Branighan and sommelier Molly Wismeier opened MaMou in the fall of 2022 at the edge of the French Quarter, offering a blend of art nouveau design and inventive cuisine. Dishes like the braised celery hearts appetizer and the must-try poisson à la Florentine perfectly encapsulate the fusion of 'Parisian brasserie meets the Big Easy.'

Hungry Eyes

Uptown is arguably the trendiest area in New Orleans, and Hungry Eyes, launched by the team behind Turkey and the Wolf in April 2023, enhances that reputation. Upon entering (with its neon lights and new wave soundtrack), you're instantly transported; the menu features equally bold dishes like artichoke hearts on the half shell and pastrami with a barbecue marinade.

Fives

Nestled in the French Quarter, Fives is celebrated for its impressive array of raw oysters sourced from both the Gulf and East coasts, as well as a mix of inventive and classic cocktails. With its elegant horseshoe bar crafted from green marble and quaint wooden tables dispersed throughout, Fives creates an intimate atmosphere that feels well-established, even though it just opened in the summer of 2023. "We envisioned a place that feels as if it has always belonged here," remarks bar manager James O’Donnell. "It should embody timelessness."

St. Roch Market

The historic St. Roch Market was revitalized and reopened on the edge of the Marigny neighborhood in 2015, with a building that has roots dating back to 1875. This vibrant marketplace offers a plethora of local food vendors, allowing visitors to embark on their culinary adventures—whether they crave Cuban, Sicilian, Vietnamese cuisine, or more.

Stay

ONE11 Hotel

The 83-room ONE11 Hotel is conveniently located near the French Quarter, just steps away from the Central Business District and the Mississippi River. It is close to attractions like the Sazerac House museum and Woldenberg Park. Guests can enjoy stunning river and city views from the rooftop terrace, while the outdoor pool on the ground level offers a perfect spot to unwind at the end of the day.

Rubenstein Hotel

Housed in the same building as its century-old namesake, the Rubenstein Hotel features 40 rooms and opened its doors in early 2024. Located at the intersection of Canal Street and St. Charles Avenue, it boasts a wraparound second-floor balcony, giving guests a prime view of the lively Mardi Gras celebrations.

The Ritz-Carlton New Orleans

Occupying a grand Beaux-Arts structure that was formerly a department store, the 528-room Ritz-Carlton New Orleans spans almost an entire block. After completing a $40 million renovation in 2023, it features a jazz bar and a remarkable 25,000-square-foot spa, the largest in the city.

Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans

Situated in a tower listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Four Seasons New Orleans opened its doors in 2021, featuring 341 luxurious rooms and a rooftop pool. Miss River, one of the hotel's two restaurants curated by James Beard Award-winning chef Alon Shaya, along with the lobby's Chandelier Bar, which boasts a stunning 15,000-piece chandelier, are standout destinations in their own right.

What to Do

StudioBE

Founded in 2016 by local artist and advocate Brandan "BMike" Odums in the Bywater neighborhood, StudioBE is a vibrant space showcasing large, colorful paintings and mixed-media installations across its 36,000-square-foot gallery and workshop. The exhibit features moving portraits of Black New Orleanians as well as other influential Black Americans.

Crescent Park
If you're searching for a great picnic spot, look no further than this 20-acre, 1.4-mile linear park that opened in 2015. Featuring spacious lawns, pavilions, and bike paths, it borders the Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods and provides stunning views of the city skyline and the Mississippi River.