Organize a family biking adventure around France's Lake Annecy

In Dinogo Plan-It, we guide you through the intricate planning of some of the most challenging travel experiences. Here, Nicola Williams shares her journey on one of the most legendary cycling routes in the French Alps with her pre-teen daughter.

For breathtaking outdoor experiences and stunning alpine vistas, cycling around Lake Annecy ranks among the best in the French Alps. The vibrant mix of rugged mountains, picturesque villages, and beach-lined shores that unfolds as you ride around Annecy’s pristine waters is nothing short of cinematic: envision the joyful spontaneity that makes you want to throw your hat in the air, ring your bike bell, and celebrate the French joie de vivre.

The enchanting charm of Lake Annecy (Lac d’Annecy) is well-known. Regarded as Europe’s cleanest lake, it gained prominence through the medieval Counts of Geneva and became a favorite among 19th-century royalty, artists, and wanderers. The canal-carved old town of Annecy boasts a picture-perfect beauty reminiscent of an over-the-top Venetian dream, attracting Parisian elites in search of a stylish countryside getaway to its lake, draped in the lush green mountains of Bauges, Bornes, and Aravis.

Arriving in Annecy on a dry March day to tackle the 42km (26 miles, with a 300m/984ft elevation gain, taking 3–4 hours not including breaks) route around the lake was somewhat daunting. We were uncertain if our 12-year-old would manage Annecy’s famous Tour du Lac, but decided to embrace the classic parenting strategy of “lead by example.” Fortunately, the circumstances were favorable. Unlike navigating snow bridges in Chamonix’s Vallée Blanche or spending days hiking around Mont Blanc, this bucket-list journey in the French Alps doesn’t require extraordinary strength or skills. Almost anyone, including young kids, can cycle along the pristine shores of Lake Annecy. Here’s how we accomplished it.

Step 1: Choose the ideal time

Best months are April to June and September

Facing strong headwinds or heavy rain while cycling is certainly not ideal for a family outing. Check the weather forecast and select a dry, calm day. Spring, early summer, and September tend to be comfortably warm without the overwhelming crowds of July and August. Weekdays are also quieter compared to weekends when local cycling enthusiasts join the flow of riders around the lake.

Step 2: Choose the right bike

Both classic road bikes and e-bikes are suitable

Throughout our train ride from Geneva to Annecy, we deliberated the merits of traditional versus modern bikes and whether to give our tween some electric boost. The surge in e-bike rentals across France has indeed changed the game for amateur cyclists, enabling them to cover greater distances with ease. The golden rule: keep bike types consistent within your group, or you’ll spend the whole ride waiting for someone to catch up.

Annecy is home to numerous bike rental shops, including Cyclable Location located by the lakefront at place aux Bois, where our lake adventure began. Many of these shops offer bikes and trailers for children. Not all outlets take reservations, which is crucial during July and August when demand peaks by 10am. Arriving early ensures you have a wider selection of bikes and a jump on the tourist crowd. Expect to pay around €9/24 per hour/day for a standard touring bike and €16/52 for an electric one. These rates typically include a basic paper map, helmet, bike lock, and un panier (front basket), which is very useful for carrying gear—request one if your bike doesn’t come with it.

Step 3: Prepare your backpack

Travel light and include some delicious snacks

Remember to bring your passport or ID card to use as a deposit when renting bikes. Essential items include a refillable water bottle, a cap for under your helmet, snacks, swimming attire, a towel, and sunscreen. On windy days, a lightweight waterproof jacket that also serves as a windbreaker is crucial. While a detailed map isn’t necessary since Lake Annecy’s cycling route is well-marked along the lakeshore, using the route-planner app Komoot added an engaging element for our tween.

There are plenty of picturesque picnic spots along the way. Before leaving town, gather supplies like fresh fruit, a crispy baguette, Savoyard cheese, and saucisson sec (air-dried sausage) with Beaufort cheese or blueberries from Annecy’s open-air market, Marché de la Vieille Ville, which fills rue Ste-Claire and adjacent streets on Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday mornings (7am to 1pm).

Step 4: Set off on your journey – clockwise

Trade exhausting climbs for thrilling descents

Most cyclists begin by heading east from Annecy towards Veyrier-du-Lac to enjoy the exhilarating descent down the steep hill right before Talloires, 12.7km (8 miles) to the south. Traveling clockwise also allows you to save the more leisurely western shore path—an easy ride along a flat, 1930s train track converted into a smooth voie verte (greenway)—for the end of the trip when fatigue sets in.

The majority of the 42km (26-mile) loop runs along a dedicated two-way cycling path, making it a family favorite. The first section out of Annecy runs alongside the busy D909 road and can be noisy, but don’t let that deter you. After passing the lakeside village of Veyrier-du-Lac, 3km (1.8 miles) south, traffic decreases and the bike path moves away from the road. The southern part of Lake Annecy, around the Réserve Naturelle du Bout-du-Monde, which preserves the last remaining reed beds, is the least developed and most au naturel.

Step 5: Schedule breaks for refueling and fun

Swim, stroll, and spot beavers

Make a day of your adventure, filled with playful pauses. There are metal ladders leading into the crystal-clear waters, which reach a swim-friendly 23°C (73°F) in summer and cool down to about 12°C (54°F) in the brisk shoulder seasons. Several grassy spots along the eastern shore provide ideal swimming opportunities. Alternatively, enjoy the stunning beaches around Lake Annecy. Here are our favorite stops (with cycling times/distances from Annecy):

• Veyrier-du-Lac (30 minutes, 6km/4 miles): Relax at the beautifully maintained lakeside while enjoying coffee at Le Pêcheur and taking a dip at the village's charming beach, Plage de la Brune.

• Menthon–St-Bernard (40 minutes, 9km/5.7 miles): Skip the 2km/1.24 mile detour to the village’s fairy-tale chateau and indulge in pastries at the local boulangerie-pâtisserie. The tarte écureuil (squirrel tartlet) topped with caramelized walnuts makes for a delightful energy boost.

• Talloires (1 hour, 13km/8 miles): Stroll along the picturesque lakeside of Annecy’s most upscale village. Marvel at the 17th-century Abbaye de Talloires, once visited by Paul Cézanne, and admire the imposing Roc de Chère (601m/1972ft) and Château de Duingt across the water. This area marks the lake's narrowest point, where the developed Grand Lac (north) meets the wilder Petit Lac (south).

• Plage de Doussard (1½ hours, 21.5km/13 miles): Rent kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, or even go water-skiing. Enjoy the waves from a modern speedboat at this expansive beach bordered by sand and grass. Observe paragliders gliding above and follow the boardwalk into the tranquil Réserve Naturelle du Bout-du-Monde, where you might spot playful beavers and nesting Eurasian coots among the reeds.

• Les Jardins du Taillefer (1¾ hours, 22.7km/14 miles): Take a lunch break in the flower garden of this organic farm, featuring a slide and climbing frame for kids, delicious vegetarian dishes, Savoyard cheeses, and homemade Glaces & Cows ice cream. If you can’t pull the kids away, consider an overnight stay in a rustic pod, tent, or wooden cabin.

• Duignt (2 hours, 27km/17 miles): A quick 10-minute hike uphill to Grotte de Notre Dame du Lac rewards you with breathtaking views of the lake, making this quaint lakeside village a must-stop. The 19th-century chateau hosts seasonal exhibitions, and the artisan Boulangerie du Lac is renowned as one of the best in the Alps.

• L’Abri Cyclette (2¼ hours, 31km/19 miles): Stop for air, bike repairs, and refreshments at this trendy signal house-turned-snack bar, located about half a mile from the lake on the smooth Voie Verte.

• Plage de St-Jorioz (2 hours 20 minutes, 32km/20 miles): Join the summer crowds for a swim at this sandy municipal beach from the 1920s, complete with a retro plongeoir (diving tower) for older kids, and lifeguards on duty during July and August (seasonal entry fee adult/child €2.60/1).

If I had the chance to do it all over again…

… I would still choose regular bikes, especially since our 12-year-old completed the loop without any tears, trauma, or electric assistance (friends of ours with a 9-year-old had a similarly successful experience). During peak season, starting the tour in Duingt and renting bikes there helps skip the lines at rental shops and dodge the inevitable crowds at the starting point.