Organize your summer adventure to North Carolina's Outer Banks

There’s a certain enchantment in the air at the Outer Banks. How else can you describe a place where wild horses play on the beach and people can learn to soar?

That was my sentiment during my first visit as someone who had always lived in landlocked areas, not particularly yearning for a beach escape. The beaches never seemed as perfect as the postcards depicted – I suppose I had just never received one from the Outer Banks. Many from my wife's family made it an annual tradition, and once they introduced me, I finally understood the allure.

These natural barrier islands shield about 200 miles of North Carolina's coastline from Atlantic storms, despite being fragile formations that are only hundreds of feet wide in some areas. With a dozen national wildlife refuges, protected shorelines, and state parks, the blend of breathtaking beauty and raw power, along with vastness and gentle fragility, creates a compelling attraction.

Travelers have certainly taken notice. This year, between four and five million visitors are expected to venture to the Outer Banks – or OBX – nearly double the figures from 15 years ago, as reported by local tourism offices and park authorities. This means planning is essential. Even with the influx of visitors, the coastal towns and rejuvenating vistas maintain their charming atmosphere – yet another testament to the magic of the Outer Banks. Here are my top recommendations for maximizing your visit.

Step 1: Decide on your home base

Choosing the right location in OBX is essential, as each town has its unique atmosphere, though traveling between them can be tricky. Traffic on Hwy 12, the main route through the Outer Banks, can be a downer up north, while Ocracoke Island to the south is only reachable by ferry. Beachside parking is also more limited compared to typical mainland beaches, so consider how vital it is to be within walking distance to beach access points. Here are some highlights, listed from north to south.

Corolla

Vibes: A sophisticated yet down-to-earth blend of elegant rentals, shopping, and stunning scenery. While the Outer Banks technically begin in far southern Virginia, people generally refer to the North Carolina communities when they mention OBX, and Corolla is the northernmost point you can drive in OBX without a beach-friendly 4WD vehicle (Remember to pronounce it as kur-ALL-ah, and don’t let your kah-ROLL-ah get stuck in the sand).

Do: Spotting the wild mustangs, descendants of Colonial Spanish horses, on the dunes of Currituck National Wildlife Refuge is an unforgettable experience. The nonprofit Corolla Wild Horse Fund provides a guide for safely seeing them with a 4WD, but if you don’t have one, plenty of local tour operators are available. In town, ascend the steps of the Currituck Beach Lighthouse before picking up a beach read at Island Bookstore.

Eat: Treat yourself to a crabcake benedict breakfast at Seanna Tavern before heading to the lighthouse. In the evening, relax with a drink at the easygoing Corolla Beer Garden.

Stay: There are vacation home rentals for every budget across OBX. Consider Airbnb for a smaller or budget-friendly option, but for larger groups, I recommend local vacation rental companies like Twiddy & Company, which has extensive support in the northern OBX area. The Inn at Corolla offers beautiful sunset views of Currituck Sound.

Duck

Vibes: Charming and family-oriented, the town of Duck offers a delightful boardwalk filled with souvenir shops and seafood restaurants. Art walks and free concerts in the park immerse you in a coastal vibe reminiscent of Netflix’s Outer Banks (Note: I’ve never watched an episode, but the series is actually filmed in South Carolina!).

Do: Rent a bike from Ocean Atlantic Rentals and cruise along the bike path, then pick up a kite at the boardwalk shops to fly on the beach. Stroll down the boardwalk to Duck Town Park and enjoy watching the reeds sway in the breeze.

Eat: Indulge in a donut that’s almost too beautiful to eat from the original Duck Donuts location, which started the nationwide chain. The Blue Point offers straightforward yet delicious seafood classics like scallops and shrimp and grits, while the Paper Canoe features an intimate dining atmosphere and creative dishes perfect for a romantic evening.

Stay: If you’re not keen on Twiddy or Airbnb options in Duck, Village Realty has a local office. There are also several hotels along the narrow stretch between Duck and Corolla, with the luxurious Sanderling Resort being the most upscale choice.

Kitty Hawk/Kill Devil Hills/Nags Head

Vibes: This trio of adjacent towns offers a bustling atmosphere with plenty to do and more visitors than other areas in OBX. Here, you can swap a busier beach for enhanced amenities and varied rental prices.

Do: Kitty Hawk is where the Wright Brothers made history with their early aircraft experiments, and the Wright Brothers National Memorial marks the spot where they battled gravity. Jockey’s Ridge State Park features the tallest living sand dune system on the Eastern Seaboard. Want to give it a try? Book a horseback ride on the beach.

Eat: The beachside grill John’s Drive In has been serving up burgers and sweet treats for nearly 50 years, while Sam and Omie’s has been delighting visitors with comforting seafood for almost 90 years.

Stay: This area offers plenty of motels and national chain hotels if that suits your preferences better than renting an entire home. For a quieter experience away from the crowds, consider the adults-only Colington Creek Inn on the Roanoke Sound, which provides a peaceful retreat in Kill Devil Hills.

Roanoke Island

Vibes: If you're more into museums and history than sunbathing, the town of Manteo on Roanoke Island should be your base.

Do: Dive into one of America’s oldest unsolved mysteries by exploring the infamous 16th-century disappearance of the “Lost Colony” at Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, where around 120 British settlers vanished without a trace. Stroll through the beautiful Elizabethan Gardens, a living tribute at the site.

Eat: Enjoy the oysters, whether grilled or raw, at Blue Water Grill for lunch to keep you satisfied until your steak dinner reservations at 1587 Restaurant and Lounge inside the Tranquil House Inn.

Stay: The island offers several charming inns and traditional bed and breakfasts. While the Tranquill House is a great option, the views and boardwalk access at the Roanoke Inn are hard to beat.

Hatteras and Ocracoke Islands

Vibes: Located at the southernmost point of the Outer Banks, Hatteras and Ocracoke Islands offer a more tranquil and laid-back experience compared to the busy northern OBX, although accommodations tend to fill up quickly during peak season.

Do: The journey itself is part of the excitement. Driving along Hwy 12 to Hatteras through Cape Hatteras National Seashore offers stunning views of both the ocean and the sound, while Ocracoke is only reachable by ferry. Once you arrive, enjoy the peaceful beaches or take a stroll along the trail through Buxton Woods.

Eat: Howard’s Pub is a quirky local favorite in Ocracoke known for its tasty burgers, or you can switch things up with some Thai curry ramen at Cafe Pamlico.

Stay: For home rentals in these areas, it’s best to work with rental agencies that specialize in these communities, such as Ocracoke Island Realty or Hatteras Realty.

Step 2: Reserve your accommodations

We’ve opted for large home rentals during our OBX trips, essential for a dozen travelers, including kids, but finding the right options can be overwhelming. With numerous rental agencies available, prime locations often get booked more than a year in advance. Twiddy warns that nearly 80% of their large homes are reserved for summer by January 1 each year. The challenge lies in varying leasing agreements between homeowners and rental companies, which can make availability feel unpredictable, with rates subject to change even while holding a reservation. If you're considering a rental home, start your search now and book right away. Even if you plan to look for alternatives and may forfeit a small hold fee for changes, it’s better to secure your spot early.

While not every group needs a home rental, if you choose to stay in a hotel, treat yourself to a charming inn if possible. Many bars close early, and the nightlife in OBX is more relaxed than wild, so find a place where you can unwind in the evenings.

Step 3: Organize your activities

I’ve shared several suggestions above, but we all know why you're heading to the Outer Banks: the beaches. There are plenty of options for renting beach essentials like chairs, umbrellas, paddleboards, and even golf carts to help transport your group to various beach access points. Booking in advance is essential to secure quality gear. If you find yourself in a bind and have forgotten something, try calling different rental agencies instead of just browsing their websites for a last-minute solution.

The Wright Brothers chose this location for their early flights due to the steady sea winds, and you can experience that thrill too with kitesurfing or glider lessons from Kitty Hawk Kites. Personally, I prefer staying closer to the ground (i.e., I'm afraid of heights), so a novelty kite that can soar above our beach chairs is more my style. Before finalizing your plans for the day, check the surf and wind reports; poor water conditions or strong westerly winds (which bring more mosquitoes from the still waters of the sound) might make it a good day to explore one of the towns instead of hitting the beach.

Finally, don’t forget to check the launch schedules for NASA’s Wallops Island and Kennedy Space Center. These launches are irregular and highly weather-dependent, but we were lucky enough to witness one in 2023. Watching a craft actually leave Earth’s atmosphere is an awe-inspiring and humbling experience. I can only wonder how Orville and Wilbur Wright would react.

Step 4: Organize your dining options

OBX offers a plethora of mid-range dining choices, with a strong emphasis on seafood, of course. However, places that accept reservations tend to fill up days or even weeks in advance during peak season, so it's wise to make some bookings before you head out.

If you're traveling with family or a large group, a fun and simple way to avoid the crowds is to host a seafood boil at home. Outer Banks Boil Company will prepare your choice of shellfish and sides mixed with butter and seasoning, all packaged to go. You’ll just need a stove to cook it on. It's still a good idea to reserve your pot in advance during the busy season.

Step 5: Determine your travel method

The nearest major airport is Norfolk International, about a 90-minute drive to the Wright Memorial Bridge leading into the Outer Banks, and depending on your exact destination, it may take an additional hour to navigate through OBX. Keep in mind the phrase “without traffic,” as peak season can significantly increase travel time, especially at busy points like the bridge and town centers. Try to plan your arrival and departure for midweek; arriving on a Saturday around midday can result in a frustrating first day spent in traffic.

Whether you're coming from Norfolk or further north, make sure to stop at Morris Farm Market near Barco, N.C. It's known for having the best selection of goods and the cleanest bathrooms among the markets along the northern route to OBX. The southern route via Roanoke Island on Hwy 64 is generally less congested and is the main route if you're traveling from Raleigh. Ferries to Ocracoke depart from Swanquarter and Cedar Island on the mainland, and as with everything during peak season, it's wise to book ahead for a stress-free trip.

Speaking of routes, double-check your GPS to ensure it isn't mistakenly directing you toward a ferry as a shortcut to avoid traffic. Your GPS might also suggest side streets through neighborhoods once you’re in OBX, despite local efforts to discourage these recommendations. I've seen signs posted by locals that say, “Google Maps lies! Don’t drive this way!” If you do choose to take an alternate route, please drive slowly and respectfully through the residential areas away from the main roads.

Step 6: Pack your bags

For us, this trip calls for a serious packing session; we load up the car with food and supplies to stock our rental during our stay. In addition to sunscreen and bug spray, don’t forget to bring toiletries and laundry detergent that might not be included in your rental. It's best to pack these from home instead of wasting time waiting in long lines and paying inflated prices once you arrive.

Invest in the best, sturdiest beach umbrella or canopy you can find, as a flimsy one will easily flip inside out or blow away in the wind, and you’ll need shade from the sun. Consider packing a nice lightweight button-up or dress for a couple of dinners out; however, beach casual attire will suffice in most places.