Reasons to visit Provins, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located just 90 minutes from Paris
The medieval walled town of Provins, situated 92 km (57 mi) southeast of Paris, has remained largely unchanged since the 17th century. Now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it attracts a million visitors annually who come to appreciate its historical significance; in the 10th century, it was the third most important town in France after Paris and Rouen.
Partially encircled by its 25 m (82 ft) tall ramparts and moat, Provins was established by the influential Counts of Champagne as a key trading hub between northern Europe and the Mediterranean. Its importance was such that it issued its own currency, the Provins “denier” or penny, and was bustling with merchants from around the world during its annual trade fairs. Additionally, Provins is renowned for the Rosa gallica, the ancestor of many European rose varieties.
Every June, Provins hosts a vibrant Medieval festival © Alexandre.ROSA / ShutterstockWhat is the best time to visit Provins?
If you're not deterred by crowds, the best time to visit is during the Medieval Festival held on the second weekend of June (this year it's on June 1st and 2nd due to the Paris Olympics). It's the largest event of its kind in France, featuring troubadours, acrobats, and entertainers filling the streets alongside 350 artisans showcasing their crafts. Expect dancing, music, games, jousting, street performances, and a traditional medieval ball, culminating in a Sunday parade with 700 participants in period costumes. Be sure to book a ticket, and if you arrive in medieval attire, you'll receive a discount!
Other notable events include the one-day Harvest Festival (“Fête de la Moisson”) on the last weekend of August, which has been canceled this year due to a conflict with the Olympic Games. Additionally, Provins hosts a medieval Christmas market on December 14th and 15th.
To see the beautiful Rosa gallica in bloom, plan your visit from mid-May to June. You'll find these stunning flowers in the Provins Rose Garden and cascading over private walls and fences.
For families traveling with children—or anyone wishing to immerse themselves in the medieval ambiance—consider visiting between late March and late October. Historical shows are held during this period, usually regardless of the weather; however, the falconry display might be canceled in high winds or heavy rain, though jousting will continue even in less-than-ideal conditions.
Provins' historic attractions are accessible year-round (afternoons only during winter weekdays, full days on weekends), along with the town's medieval-themed escape game.
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How much time should I dedicate to Provins?
A comfortable visit requires two days, but a day trip can still provide a taste of the town. Stroll along the ramparts, admire the charming half-timbered houses by the Voulzie River (a spot often overlooked by tourists), dine at France’s oldest continuously operating restaurant (serving meals since 1270, except during Covid), participate in a cooking class to make traditional medieval biscuits, or unwind at the stunning cellar bar in the Hotel Aux Vieux Remparts.
The best way to discover Provins is on foot © ilolab / ShutterstockIs it straightforward to reach and navigate Provins?
There are 16 trains daily from Paris Gare de l’Est to Provins; the trip lasts about an hour and a half and costs €5 one way.
This town, home to 12,000 residents, features two distinct areas: the “Châtel” perched on the northwestern promontory (where the ramparts and numerous medieval landmarks are located) and the “Val” that gently slopes southeast, housing the local residents, shops, and workplaces.
It's a pleasant 2km stroll from the train station in Val to the tourist office in the Châtel, following the rue des Marais by the Voulzie river through the lively town center—though the last stretch is uphill. Alternatively, you can catch a bus, but it departs 20 minutes after the train, making walking just as quick. If you're driving, you can park for free near the tourist office and won’t need your car during your stay.
Stop by the tourist office to grab a map and choose from three recommended walking tours; they mainly share the same route. If you opt for the orange Count Thibaud or blue Rose Road tour, be sure to visit 12 rue de Jouy at the Tabliers Gourmands for a snack or medieval-style biscuits—this is also where you can take that cooking class we mentioned. The blue tour includes a stop at the Rose Garden, while the purple Rampart Tour takes you around the ramparts. The orange route is the quickest (1.5 hours), whereas the purple one can take up to hours.
Some streets, especially rue Saint Thibault, are steep and cobbled, so wear comfortable flat shoes. If you're planning to explore the underground galleries, bring a warm jacket since temperatures remain around 12°C (53°F) year-round.
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Provins boasts a charming layout of walls, squares, and timber-framed structures © Leonid Andronov / Getty ImagesHow to enjoy an ideal day in Provins
Start your day at the thirteenth-century Grange aux Dîmes, or Tithe Barn, located on rue Saint Jean, where you'll discover the renowned Provins trade fairs that flourished during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Don't forget to use the engaging audio guide; otherwise, you might miss out on the fascinating stories behind the life-sized wax figures and charming scenes.
At the end of the street, turn right into the Place du Châtel, a square adorned with impressive stone and timber-framed buildings, as well as several restaurants. At the western end, take note of the well with its ornate iron cage and the large Exchange Cross—this is where the Counts of Champagne shared their public announcements.
Proceed to the eastern end and take the furthest right street, rue de l’Ormerie, leading you to the symbol of Provins: the 12th-century Tour César, the only known octagonal castle resting on a square base. For an enriched visit, download a free audio guide on your smartphone (currently in French, with an English version on the way) to enhance your experience. If you skip it, climbing to the top still offers breathtaking views of the town and countryside, and the grassy slopes at the base are perfect for kids to roll down!
Next, stroll around the unfinished, cathedral-like 12th-century Saint Quiriace collegiate church and down the narrow rue d’Enfer to arrive at the bottom of rue Saint Thibault. Here, you can either explore the underground galleries (guided tours only—book at the tourist office) or make your way to Place St Ayoul, where the very first Provins fairs were held. The distinctive black sections on the St Ayoul church portal were created by sculptor Georges Jeanclos in 1985.
For a moment of tranquility, venture into the nearby Saint Ayoul priory, which was sold to the state at the end of the 18th century for various military purposes, including housing the cavalry. It was returned to the culture ministry in 1938, leading to its restoration, which revealed charming frescoes. The contemporary stained glass windows were created by German-French artist Udo Zembok.
If you're arriving by train, consider starting your visit at the priory and walking slowly uphill to follow the itinerary in reverse.
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My favorite activity in Provins
I have taken elderly parents, friends, and children to Provins many times, and one enduring favorite has been the “Eagles of the Ramparts” (Aigles de Provins) show. This presentation delves into the art of falconry, leaving even the youngest spectators in awe of the stunning horses and the soaring eagles, vultures, and other birds of prey. After the show, they can observe these magnificent creatures up close at the aviary.
Older children will also enjoy the Legend of the Knights, but be warned: the thunderous hooves, loud shouts, and clashing weapons can be a bit scary for younger ones.
What’s the budget for a trip to Provins?
In short? Quite a lot. If you plan to see both of the shows mentioned earlier and visit at least four of the five main attractions, expect to spend €43 per adult.
The Provins Pass costs €17 for adults and €10.50 for children aged 4-12, granting access to five sites: the Tour César, the Tithe Barn, the underground galleries, the Saint-Ayoul Priory, and the Museum. For families of two adults with two to five children, a family ticket is available for €50. If you can only visit three of the five sites, individual tickets may be more economical, priced at €5 for adults and €3 for children (€2.50 for the museum), except for the Underground Galleries, which are €6 for adults and €4 for children.
The favorite shows mentioned earlier are priced at €13 for adults and €9 for children (ages 4-12), with discounted rates available for students, seniors over 65, the disabled, and journalists.
Despite the high number of tourists, accommodation options in Provins are somewhat limited. There are four hotels with prices ranging from €80 to €204, and not all include breakfast. Additionally, you'll find several guest houses, including the remarkable Stella Cadente, where each room is inspired by a children's story.
Taking the bus (3207, 3209, or Express50) from the train station to Le Châtel costs €2.15 per person.
Dining and coffee are more affordable in the Val area, where there are fewer tourists compared to Châtel. For lunch for two at the Bistrot des Remparts or Hostellerie de la Croix d’Or, expect to spend around €90. The latter offers traditional French cuisine but can prepare vegetarian options if requested. If you're looking for cheaper meals (approximately €50 for two), consider places like Trattoria du Val and La P’tite Savoie, both located downhill from the Place du Châtel.
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