Set sail on Vietnam’s stunning and verdant Red River for an unforgettable journey.

The rower seems to be pedaling. As the small wooden boat draws nearer, I notice his legs moving in perfect unison with the oars.

At first, I imagine a mechanical bicycle chain is involved, but no, he’s simply rowing with his legs, looking as relaxed as someone watching TV while pedaling an exercise bike.

A woman in a conical hat sits at the bow of the boat. As they glide past our grand river steamer replica, they both gaze upward in curiosity. From the top deck, I wave, and they respond with broad smiles, the man raising both arms high, proudly demonstrating his hands-free rowing technique. It’s one of the many delightful moments I encounter as I navigate the Red River, often referred to as the cradle of Vietnamese civilization.

“We have a saying in North Vietnam,” explains our guide Duoc, or Duke as his name tag reads. “The Red River is like our mother’s milk.”

Over the next 10 days, our guide shares countless historical tales as we cruise aboard the RV Angkor Pandaw, journeying from the breathtaking Ha Long Bay up the Red River to Hanoi, and into the serene, rustic waters of the Da River, covering over 600 kilometers. Our captain, Duc Doc, a local from North Vietnam, has deep roots in these waters, having spent three years navigating a cargo boat along these very channels.

“The lower part of the river isn’t as scenic,” he explains. “It’s heavily trafficked, and in winter, fog can make things tricky. Thankfully, we have radar to detect any sandbars or obstacles.”

However, on the fifth day of our journey, we find ourselves stuck on a sandbar, a reminder of how quickly the currents shift. The captain reverses the boat to free us. “I’ve never needed a tugboat so far,” he says, grinning.

The magnificent Ha Long Bay

The brilliance of these replica paddle steamers lies in their shallow draft – just 1.2 meters.

This allows the flat-bottomed vessels to navigate even unexplored waters with ease and ensures they can still travel upstream or downstream during the dry season when water levels are at their lowest.

Captain Duc Doc shares that his favorite part of the journey is Ha Long Bay, a breathtaking maze of towering karst cliffs rising from the serene waters off Vietnam's northeast coast. These monumental rocks are 25 million years old and rank among Asia’s most awe-inspiring natural sights.

We spend the first night and full next day here, often dropping anchor to explore hidden coves. For those who wish, kayaks are available to paddle into the low-hanging caves nearby.

Ha Long Bay’s popularity is undeniable, but the crowds are impossible to ignore. Construction is rampant, with hotels and casinos rapidly popping up. Despite the national marine park being vast and supposedly protected as a UNESCO site, up to 500 ferries a day ferry day-trippers through the bay’s towering crags and peaks. Additionally, the industrial city of Hai Phong lies just a few miles to the south, placing pressure on tourism authorities to act swiftly and preserve this natural marvel before it’s overrun.

Red River Highlights

One of the great advantages of river cruising is the ability to anchor frequently at small villages and local ports, whether to gather supplies from the market or allow passengers to explore a nearby excursion.

Among the standout experiences of Pandaw’s shore excursions are water puppet shows, ethnic dance performances, bird sanctuaries, visits to Buddhist and Taoist temples, and opportunities to meet local artisans and craftspeople.

We also encounter several enduring stone Catholic churches, built during the French colonial era. Visitors are always welcomed into village homes with a cup of green tea, or, in the evening, perhaps a glass of rice whiskey.

One striking feature of the houses we pass from the upper deck is the presence of false gables. Viewed from the front, these triangular facades give the illusion of an extra floor, resembling small Buddhist shrines perched atop the roofs. Almost every building features multiple lightning rods, sometimes as many as four or six, designed like spires, which enhance their spiritual look.

Another fascinating aspect of northern Vietnamese culture is the tradition of burying deceased loved ones in their rice fields. Though the practice is now outlawed, thousands of shrines and tombstones still dot the vast rice paddies.

Our guide explains that the tradition serves two purposes: first, to remind the family that the deceased continues to watch over them, and second, as a cautionary message to never sell the land that holds their ancestors' graves.

Hanoi and beyond

Halfway through our journey, we arrive in Hanoi, the vibrant capital of Vietnam, home to over six million residents.

After visiting Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum and the inspiring Temple of Literature, it's a welcome change to stretch our legs on a walking tour through the Old Quarter, soaking in its French colonial architecture, lively narrow streets, and charming cafes.

Before long, we're back aboard the ship, and the twin 350-horsepower engines roar to life. With a blast of the horn, the ropes are cast off and we set sail once again.

The Upper Red River flows northward towards China, but we take a sharp left and head down the Da River (Black River).

This is the most scenic stretch of our journey: towering, verdant mountainsides and the refreshing breeze of the countryside. Children cheer as they dive into the river, men fish peacefully along the banks, and women wash clothes in the clear, dark waters. The rice fields are perfectly groomed, flanked by banana trees, passionfruit vines, and peanut farms.

Occasionally, we pass a fish farm, constructed from basic bamboo poles and nets. In addition to catfish, anabas, and African carp (ca ro phi), the villagers also raise shrimp and oysters along the riverbanks.

“Finally, we’ve seen what we came for,” says Andrew Baker, 72, an academic from Melbourne and one of the 22 fellow passengers I meet onboard.

Onboard the Pandaw

With only 32 passengers onboard, the guest-to-staff ratio is nearly one-to-one, ensuring exceptional attention to every detail.

“The boat’s been fantastic; the hospitality is incredible,” says Nina Grace, a tour operator from Sydney.

“I absolutely loved it!” exclaims Craig Kilgour, a retired minister from New Zealand, while enjoying his evening beer. “I can’t wait to plan my next trip.”

Cabins are designed for one or two guests and feature elegant brass fixtures and polished teakwood panels. Meals are a delightful mix of East-meets-West flavors, with a focus on healthy, delicious options served three times a day.

The day winds down with sunset cocktails on the upper deck, followed by a leisurely three-course dinner, complemented by a buffet of fresh salads, cold cuts, cheeses, and an assortment of breads.