Sierra Leone Is Cultivating a Thriving Tourism Sector. Meet Three Visionaries Leading the Charge.

Witnessing the transformation of the man in front of me—dressed in a T-shirt boldly declaring FORGIVE—is truly inspiring. Peter Momoh Bassie was just 11 when a devastating civil war erupted in Sierra Leone. While his peers played soccer, he endured three kidnappings by rebel forces, spending six harrowing years in their camps as a child soldier. He saw children barely older than himself looting villages with AK-47s, and attempts to escape were met with brutal punishment. His meager meals often included 'brown-brown' (a mix of cocaine and gunpowder)—a dangerous concoction to keep soldiers aggressive and disoriented. Both of Bassie’s parents perished in the war, which raged from 1991 to 2002, along with many friends and neighbors. His eventual escape came through the bravery of a Nigerian soldier named Africa and a daring escape involving a shootout and clever tricks.

Now at 39, Bassie is a guide and co-owner of Tourism Is Life Tours, a top travel agency in Sierra Leone. His infectious laughter and radiant smile have the power to illuminate the darkest room, and his openness about his past struggles only enhances his appeal as a guide.

Tourism is rapidly emerging in Sierra Leone (affectionately known as “sweet Salone” in Krio), and during my visit in late February 2023, as part of a press trip with four other journalists, I am eager to discover how a nation that has faced immense challenges can cultivate a thriving tourism industry from the ground up.

In early March, Freetown welcomed a new solar-powered airport—the first of its kind in West Africa. The World Bank is backing several tourism-related infrastructure initiatives across this nation of 8.4 million, and Dr. Memunatu B. Pratt, the former Minister of Tourism and Cultural Affairs, has launched nationwide cleanup efforts to elevate Sierra Leone’s stunning sandy beaches as a source of local pride (the country boasts over 300 miles of coastline).

International hotel chains like Kempinski and Crowne Plaza are reportedly exploring new ventures in Freetown, a bustling city with over 1 million residents, while locally owned eco-camps are sprouting in remote areas of its beautifully diverse landscape. As part of the Upper Guinea rainforest ecosystem, the country boasts an abundance of Indigenous flora and fauna, including endangered primates and marine life like turtles and manatees.

Nevertheless, the true charm of Sierra Leone lies in its people: warm and welcoming, they are eager to move beyond the shadows of their past, including the decade-long civil war and the devastating Ebola outbreak. Their remarkable resilience is shaping a new narrative for the country they cherish.

Navigating Toward a Brighter Future

Tourism Is Life Tours, established by Bassie’s mentor Alieya Alie Kargbo, offers curated tours of Freetown and adventurous journeys to Gola Rainforest National Park, home to pygmy hippos, as well as treks to Mount Bintumani, the tallest mountain in Sierra Leone. As my group explored the western and northern routes during our week-long adventure, certain places triggered vivid recollections for Bassie: a densely wooded line on the Freetown Peninsula where many fighters perished, or an upcountry rebel camp where child soldiers lay in trenches, waking to guerrillas urinating on them. Reflecting on his past as a father of three and a devoted Catholic, Bassie speaks with a serene acceptance. “I was once a rebel, yes, but I never killed anyone,” he asserts.

After completing a societal reintegration program for former child soldiers, Bassie took on odd jobs such as gathering firewood for his sister-in-law and baking cakes to sell in Freetown. He resumed his education, first returning to secondary school and then studying at Milton Margai Technical University, eventually securing a managerial role at Sierra Leone’s Peace and Culture Monument. Now, he spends most of his days leading tours and recounting his firsthand experiences before, during, and after the war. “There’s no discrimination in tourism,” Bassie emphasizes, aspiring to one day establish his own guide school to assist other former child soldiers in finding stable careers within the thriving travel industry. “[Sierra Leoneans] don’t dwell on the past,” Bassie states. “We look forward to the future.”

Innovative Design Approaches

Another visionary is Maryann Kaikai. The Sierra Leonean creator of the clothing brand Madam Wokie is continuously finding innovative ways to showcase Sierra Leone on the global fashion stage. Kaikai's fashion journey began as a passion project, crafting pieces for friends during her college years. Now, she is a tie-dye expert, celebrated for her vibrant caftans and her love for integrating local embroidery and hand-woven fabrics into her flowing dresses. Launched in 2009, her line features garments tailored by local seamstresses and is named after her maternal great-grandmother, Madam Wokie Massaquoi, one of the few female paramount chiefs in postcolonial Sierra Leone.

Coming from an academic family in a society that values traditional careers like medicine and law, she has faced challenges in gaining recognition as a creative professional. “[My parents] hoped I would pursue a conventional job,” recalls Kaikai, who is the eldest of four and grew up in Freetown. “But I told them, ‘This is my passion, and you can't change my mind.’” Embracing her nonconformist spirit, she also asserts that marriage and children are not part of her plans. “I’m a nonconformist—just deal with it,” she laughs.

Kaikai has collaborated with Naomi Campbell on a Fashion For Relief campaign, graced runways in Nigeria, South Africa, and New York, and her designs have been donned by celebrities like Eva Mendes, Idris Elba, Finnegan Biden, and Sarah Ferguson, Duchess of York. She believes in leveraging the creative sector for social good; during the Ebola outbreak, she supplied free toiletries and fabric to quarantined women. In response to the COVID-19 pandemic, she converted her family's three-story home into a 24-hour factory, employing 100 tailors to produce up to 120,000 waxed print face masks monthly, an effort so impactful it even caught the attention of Sierra Leone’s president on social media. Additionally, she established a skills-training program for women aged 18 to 37, which remains active today, offering six- to eight-month courses in various skills from sewing to makeup artistry.

“I’m dedicated to empowering and inspiring the next generation of girls,” says Kaikai, who aims to uplift other female creatives in ways she didn’t feel supported herself. “I always tell my mentees, you need to be selfish enough to prioritize yourself because everyone else is already taken.”

Gradually, local perceptions are shifting. “People are starting to realize that fashion isn’t a joke—it’s a viable career path,” says Kaikai. She invites travelers to visit her studio in the Brookfields area of Freetown (email [email protected] for appointments) and order custom garments, some of which can be ready before they return home. “It’s not just about designing clothes; [fashion] has the potential to transform lives.”

Imagining a Sustainable Future

Bala Amarasekaran is committed not only to fostering change for the people of Sierra Leone but also to safeguarding the land along with its diverse flora and fauna for future generations. Born in Sri Lanka and raised in Sierra Leone, he is the founder and director of Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary in Freetown. Since he and his wife, Sharmila, rescued their first chimp, Bruno, in 1988, he has tirelessly battled against animal trafficking. Established in 1995, the rescue and rehabilitation center now cares for over 100 critically endangered western chimpanzees, which serve as both the national animal of Sierra Leone and the emblem of its global tourism efforts.

Amarasekaran’s impact reaches well beyond the sanctuary’s lush surroundings; he is also a prominent figure in the hospitality sector, striving to create the country’s first network of eco-lodges while assisting in the management of two of Sierra Leone’s four national parks.

Tacugama currently manages six eco-lodges within the Western Area Peninsula National Park and plans to open two additional ones on Jaibui Island in southern Sierra Leone next year. The sanctuary also provides tented accommodations in Loma Mountains National Park (LMNP) for birdwatchers and hikers eager to reach the summit of Mount Bintumani. These conservation initiatives aim to instill a sense of responsibility among local community members to protect their surrounding environment and natural resources, according to Amarasekaran.

LMNP boasts the highest concentration of chimpanzees in West Africa. Over the past five years, Tacugama has employed and trained 21 “eco-guards” from nearby communities and has planted nearly 85,000 trees as part of a long-term pilot reforestation initiative aiming to plant 25 million trees across the nation by 2030. As more Sierra Leoneans recognize the importance of protecting these wildlife-rich reserves, Amarasekaran is confident that they will step up as “custodians” of the newly restored areas and uphold anti-poaching laws.

Plans for expanding Tacugama are also underway, with construction set to begin this December. The new innovation center will be Sierra Leone’s first zero-carbon, EDGE-certified building, featuring a library, exhibition hall, screening room, and botanical garden. “Tacugama is actively pursuing 16 of [the United Nations’] 17 Sustainable Development Goals,” Amarasekaran explains. “Every initiative starts with the chimps and extends into wildlife conservation, research, climate change adaptation, environmental education, advocacy, law enforcement, community engagement, and livelihood support projects.”

Despite the significant infrastructure challenges Sierra Leone faces, Amarasekaran sees tremendous potential for sustainable tourism as an opportunity for rebranding. “We can’t afford to rest on our laurels,” he states. “Conservation demands continuous effort to be effective, and with the progress we’ve made over the years, there’s still much work to be done.”

Important Information to Consider Before Traveling

How to get there: Arrive at the newly opened Freetown International Airport (inaugurated in March 2023) and then take the 40-minute Sea Coach Express ferry to the city.

Accommodation options: Toma in Freetown is a charming locally-owned boutique hotel featuring over a dozen well-appointed rooms and bungalows, with additional suites currently being developed.

Plan your journey: The team at Tourism Is Life Tours can organize your entire trip, matching you with knowledgeable guides like Bassie and handling all the details, including transportation and currency exchange.