Slow Travel: Journeying across the Arctic Circle by train in search of the Northern Lights

Our series on slow travel delves into how you can embark on more intentional journeys by train, boat, bus, or bike, providing insights on reaching your destination without flying, along with recommendations for experiences along the way. Here, Daniel James Clarke shares his adventure from Lapland to the Lofoten Islands, crossing the Arctic Circle on two of Scandinavia’s most breathtaking train routes.

For centuries, the breathtaking Lofoten Islands of Norway have drawn travelers to cross the Arctic Circle, seeking stunning landscapes and the mesmerizing aurora borealis (northern lights).

The dream of exploring this enchanting archipelago had lingered in my mind for years. Yet, I believed the islands were too isolated, expensive, and difficult to reach without a vehicle.

With a determination to realize my long-held aspiration of journeying from Lapland to the Lofoten Islands, I finally booked my trip as the equinox approached last fall, synchronizing my visit with the peak of the 11-year solar cycle, which promised an extraordinary season for viewing the northern lights.

Fortunately, my worries were misplaced. Traveling to Norway by public transport turned out to be not only effortless but also, during the off-season, its scenic train rides were surprisingly budget-friendly when booked in advance.

I pieced together a route from Rovaniemi in Finnish Lapland to catch Sweden’s Arctic Circle Train at Luleå, involving a three-bus journey through Kemi and Haparanda-Tornio, if you're considering the same. I eagerly secured daytime tickets to ensure I wouldn’t miss any breathtaking views—a lesson learned from the Oslo to Bergen sleeper ride.

From Swedish Lapland to Norway: the train journey from Luleå to Narvik.

I arrived at Luleå train station, already weary, for the 5:13 am departure to Norway, having foregone sleep to witness the unexpected appearance of the aurora borealis in the early hours. My first glimpse was a mesmerizing display of lime green and scarlet ribbons swirling joyfully in the sky above.

Fortunately, the seats in the carriage were quite comfortable, situated in a semi-enclosed area with some positioned by the window.

With a brief whistle, our journey commenced—a seven-and-a-half hour, 473 km (293 miles) adventure—only to come to a halt soon after at Boden station while the driver added two carriages from the overnight service from Stockholm, marking a true south-to-north 18-hour trek.

The first few hours went by with little to note until we unexpectedly crossed the Arctic Circle at the tiny Murjek station. From there, we picked up speed, and the stunning landscapes I had eagerly anticipated began to unfold near Gällivare. Ridges bordered the tracks, and we found ourselves enveloped by dense pine forests, with fresh snow occasionally interrupted by glistening lakes.

As we arrived in Kiruna, renowned for its extensive underground iron ore mines, we rolled alongside dirt-streaked wagons that transported mineral-rich cargo to the port in Luleå. The Malmbanan (Iron Ore Line), built in 1888, was designed to link Malmberget with Svartön in Luleå for the purpose of transporting precious iron ore—a project that likely wouldn’t have happened otherwise.

We took a short break at the station to stretch on the icy platform. Some passengers disembarked for mine tours, while others planned to stay at the nearby Ice Hotel. When the train resumed, it did so in reverse.

Crossing Abisko National Park was like stepping into a film. The high alpine autumn colors framed the expansive Torneträsk lake, adorned in rust and amber hues, while the snow-dusted mountains mirrored in its icy depths.

The train halted at Abisko Östra station, giving passengers another chance to step outside. We marveled at Tjuonavagge, a striking half-moon-shaped valley known as 'The Lapponian Gate,' before the train chugged towards the rugged border to connect with Norway's Ofoten Line.

The train guard appeared, announcing that we would soon descend to the Rombaken fjord, where the submerged German WWII destroyer Georg Thiele can still be seen on a clear summer day.

Camera shutters clicked furiously as we captured the steep cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and the stunningly blue waters below. All too soon, it came to an end; we arrived in Narvik slightly behind schedule.

Taking it slow: Exploring the Lofoten Islands by bus

Initially, I planned to travel south from Narvik to Skutvik, catch the ferry to Svolvær, and spend six days on Vestvågøya and Moskenesøya, the two most remote Lofoten Islands. However, realizing the complexity of that route, I opted for a direct 3:50 pm bus to Leknes instead. The journey lasted nearly six hours, but the first sight of Lofoten's mist-covered peaks rising from the Norwegian Sea captivated me long after dusk.

By the next day, any concerns about tackling one of Norway's most celebrated road trips by bus had faded. Even off-season schedules are frequent enough to explore the towns, trails, and attractions along the E10, the main road through the islands.

Smooth transfers and my unlimited bus pass made exploring the Lofoten Islands by bus both easy and cost-effective. I used connecting services to reach remote villages and stunning, albeit chilly, beaches.

I made my way to the mountain-encircled Reine, where the traditional, turf-roofed red Rorbu fishing cabins were even more charming than I had imagined. The Caribbean-like sands and crystal-clear waters at Haukland Beach exceeded all expectations. In Å, a remote fishing village, the Norsk Fiskeværsmuseum taught me about maritime legends through a collection of weathered buildings.

Traveling at a slower pace allowed me to be more present. I savored each moment instead of merely rushing to the next viewpoint.

A complimentary ferry ride back to Bodø

Å, the final letter in the Norwegian alphabet, also served as a convenient endpoint. Unlike buses from Lofoten’s eastern towns, the village’s early morning service connects with the 7:00 am Moskenes–Bodø ferry.

Upon arriving at the port, I skipped past the waiting cars (foot passengers travel for free; vehicles require advance booking and payment). I casually walked onto the parking deck and signed my name on the passenger list—everything was remarkably straightforward. We set off 15 minutes late, and I wistfully watched the Lofoten Islands disappear behind a curtain of drizzle from the open deck before retreating to the café for warmth and a view of the sunrise.

The crossing lasted about three hours, providing ample time to catch the southbound train to Trondheim, which had originally been my plan. However, I opted to spend the night in Bodø and explore a few attractions instead.

The port rarely appears on any list of Norway's top destinations—except for its proximity to Saltstraumen, home to the world’s strongest maelstrom—but it has been named one of the EU Capitals of Culture 2024. In fact, it’s the first ever to hold this title within the Arctic Circle. Unfortunately, the much-anticipated Nordlandmuseet was closed for renovations. Once it reopens, the expanded space will highlight indigenous Sami art and culture even more prominently.

Crossing back over the Arctic Circle: the Bodø to Trondheim train journey

After sleeping directly above the train terminal at the Bodø Hostel & Motel, I reached the four-carriage 12:27 pm Nordlandsbanen service to Trondheim in mere seconds. The train was already waiting on the platform when I arrived, and there was no rush to board; we would have plenty of time on Norway's longest rail line.

The train set off on schedule, following the picturesque Skjerstad Fjord. Occasional ruby-red cabins brightened an otherwise gray day. While the opposite side of the carriage showcased waterfalls, I was satisfied in my fjord-facing seat on the right. Before long, we were enveloped in darkness as we entered the first of 154 tunnels along the 729 km (453 miles) route.

We meandered alongside the rushing rapids of the Lønselva River and climbed into the Saltfjellet mountain range. As the mist lifted, we were guided by a desolate landscape of gnarled, ice-capped peaks to the track's highest elevation, 680 meters (2230 ft) above sea level.

A group of well-prepared hikers disembarked at Lønsdal, likely to explore the trails and glaciers of Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park. Shortly after, an announcement prompted everyone to press their noses against the windows: we were about to cross the Arctic Circle.

We sauntered past the cairn-like markers marking the latitude line, followed by the domed Arctic Circle Centre. For many, this was the highlight of the journey. Fellow travelers occupied themselves with knitting or using laptops, while the restless headed to the restaurant car.

Dunderland station provided a short pause for passengers as, almost predictably, the temperature rose into double digits. Sunlight sparkled on an emerald-green river, with spruce trees taking the place of pines. The colors of the canopy transitioned from copper to crimson, finally settling on lush pastures.

Not long after passing the reflective Lake Majavatnet, we crossed into the Trøndelag region as the sun dipped below the horizon. My neighbor’s knitted scarf was almost done. I’m sure those in the family railcar appreciated the children's play area. Hot dogs, meatballs, and hot chocolates from the restaurant car broke up the final dark stretch. After nearly 10 hours, arriving at Trondheim station was a relief. The views had been stunning, but stepping out into the fresh Norwegian air was a welcome change.

Heading to Oslo

Due to the suspension of the direct night train service to Oslo following a bridge collapse in August 2023 (with plans to resume in spring or summer 2024), I opted to spend the night in Trondheim, Norway's third-largest city.

The next day, I had plenty of time to explore Trondheim's key attractions, including the stunningly decorated facade of the 12th-century Gothic Nidaros Cathedral and the hilltop Kristiansten Fortress. I wandered through the cobbled streets of the Bakklandet neighborhood, admiring its vibrant, river-facing wooden houses.

The final stretch of my journey was the 10:45 pm Vy night bus to Oslo, which I had been a bit anxious about. However, I was pleasantly surprised by my experience. My reclining Plus seat was spacious, without a neighbor, and offered extra legroom, making it easy to catch some restful sleep.

After covering over 2000km (1243 miles) in the past nine days, I slept deeply, dreaming of those mesmerizing dancing skies all the way to Norway's capital.

How to make it work

Tickets

I purchased my train tickets a few weeks in advance: Luleå to Narvik for 494 SEK and Bodø to Trondheim for 539 NOK (approximately US$52; last-minute fares can nearly double). Tickets are typically available for booking 90–120 days ahead, and you can make reservations through the national operators’ websites: SJ and Vy.

In Lofoten, the Travel Pass Nordland (1290 NOK; about US$125) offers seven days of unlimited bus travel. Physical cards can only be bought in Bodø, so it’s advisable to purchase online via the Reis Nordland app. Single tickets are more affordable for occasional journeys; however, with a one-way fare from Narvik to Leknes costing 512 NOK (approximately US$50), the savings can accumulate quickly.

Food and beverages

On the Luleå–Narvik route, a kiosk provides hot and cold snacks and drinks – download the VY app for a complimentary coffee. For Bodø–Trondheim daytime trips, a restaurant cart offers reasonably priced (by Scandinavian standards) hot meals, soft drinks, and (more expensive) alcoholic beverages. Premium Plus passengers enjoy free hot drinks and snacks, with the option to order meals directly to their seats. Alternatively, consider bringing a picnic to save some krone.

Amenities

Both trains feature plug sockets and (occasionally unreliable) wi-fi, as do most Nordland buses – useful since the travel pass requires an internet connection for validation. Bodø and Trondheim train stations have spacious self-service luggage lockers that accept card payments, while Narvik’s lockers need Norwegian coins. Most Nordland buses come equipped with informative onboard screens, reversible child seats, and complimentary bicycle racks on select routes.

Organize your visit by season

The experience differs significantly by season; plan accordingly. In winter, the brief daylight limits your chances to enjoy the frozen scenery, while overnight trains may offer glimpses of the northern lights. The polar nights of summer can make the sleeper service particularly picturesque. Trains run daily throughout the year, but bus and ferry services decrease outside of June to September, so some planning is necessary to coordinate ferry schedules with onward trains. Utilize the Reis Nordland travel planner to solidify your itinerary.