Stalin’s Prison in Azerbaijan: A Place Where Water Burns Like Fire

If an artist were to draw a map of Azerbaijan, the southernmost region would be painted with lush green tea plantations, fragrant citrus groves, and a coastline adorned with charming lighthouses.

Lankaran, located on the Caspian Sea, is a breathtaking area that holds some extraordinary secrets. A newly completed road now connects it to Baku, the capital, in just two hours.

Though it’s only a short trip, the journey south through verdant fields to Lankaran and the coastline offers a different pace of life compared to the rest of Azerbaijan.

At a busy construction site, workers remain unfazed by the summer heat, while roadside fruit and vegetable vendors energetically wave to passing cars, hoping to attract attention to their vibrant stalls. Meanwhile, a field worker sets dry grass ablaze, sending puffs of white smoke into the sky.

Tea culture in Azerbaijan traces its roots to Lankaran, and the region proudly showcases this tradition. Along the roadsides, you'll often find pyramid-shaped silver foil packages filled with fragrant tea, as well as small stalls offering Levengi chicken – a local delicacy – alongside vast citrus orchards.

Amidst the lush greenery, you'll spot small red-brick houses typical of the region, each one adorned with ivy climbing up its walls.

Known for their warmth and hospitality, the people of Lankaran are always ready to offer a cup of tea and guide you to the three most fascinating sites in this enchanting area.

A Lighthouse without a Sea

Lankaran Lighthouse, the city's iconic landmark, was built in the 18th century.

Although surrounded by small houses, the lighthouse stands a considerable distance from the sea – an oddity that makes sense when you learn that the Caspian Sea has fluctuated in size over the years, earning it the nickname the 'breathing Caspian.'

An underground tunnel connects the lighthouse to Zindan Tower. This long-abandoned building was originally part of Lankaran's fortress and played a vital role in the city’s defense system.

It’s easy to miss unless you have a well-drawn map. Situated just past a small bridge into the city center, the old circular structure is concealed by towering acacia and fig trees, with only the top of the tower visible through broken windows and tangled branches.

In the years before Soviet rule, up until the early 20th century, Zindan Tower was used as a prison. The ancient structure has changed little since it once held one of the most notorious leaders in history: Ioseb Dze Jughashvili, better known as Joseph Stalin.

It is said that Stalin was imprisoned here as a young revolutionary. According to legend, he escaped through an underground tunnel with the help of Mammad Amin Rasulzadeh, founder of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic. From there, Stalin made his way to the lighthouse and fled via the Caspian Sea.

The building has fallen into disrepair and is no longer accessible to visitors. Its walls guard their secrets, and for now, one can only glimpse the top of the tower through a thick barrier of fig trees that obscure the view of the base.

A Spring Where Water Burns

The small village of Archivan, near the Iranian border, is home to a remarkable natural phenomenon known as Yanar Bulag, or the Burning Spring.

At this spring, the water is naturally infused with methane gas, which makes it flammable and capable of igniting.

A modest sign at the village entrance marks the spot, where a small cupola shelters the fountain. Locals stop by with jugs, while travelers fill their bottles with the spring water.

Most visitors come to gather the fresh, ice-cold water, which is perfectly safe to drink, despite its unusual ability to catch fire.

Beneath the spring, a pile of watermelons is kept cool and fresh.

The water appears completely normal in both color and smell, but when lit, it burns for five to ten seconds.

A Park Where Leopards Roam

A scenic drive takes you through villages hidden in a lush forest, vast fields stretching towards distant mountain horizons, large blue beehives, and a sunset bathed in warm vanilla tones.

The hot summer air hums until the refreshing shade of Hirkan National Park provides relief.

Hirkan National Park, home to endangered Persian leopards, ancient ironwood trees, and peaceful ponds perfect for fishing, picnics, and afternoon tea, is an ideal spot for hiking and unwinding after a long, hot day.

The dense forest beside a cool river is a tranquil escape from city noise, offering only the calming sounds of the flowing water and the rustling of leaves in the breeze.