The alluring reality behind Sicily’s ‘White Lotus’ hotel

With its opulent Baroque estates, lush gardens, striking landscapes, timeless art, and an irresistibly seductive atmosphere, Sicily proves to be the ideal backdrop for season two of the dark comedy 'The White Lotus.'

The acclaimed series explores the tangled, passionate, and sometimes perilous escapades of ultra-wealthy vacationers at the stunning San Domenico Palace, a luxurious clifftop resort in Taormina, managed by Four Seasons.

Once a 14th-century monastery offering unparalleled views of Mount Etna and the coast, the San Domenico Palace is as much a character in the show as the stars themselves. According to its real-world manager, Lorenzo Maraviglia, it’s just as captivating as its fictional portrayal.

'The atmosphere here mirrors what you experience in the series,' says Maraviglia. 'It’s vibrant, quintessentially Sicilian – both romantic and seductive – and it draws in incredible guests, including Madonna and Sharon Stone this year.'

Produced for HBO (part of Warner Bros. Discovery, like Dinogo), the series is shot across Taormina, Noto, Cefalù, and Palermo, with the San Domenico Palace at the center of the drama and passionate entanglements unfolding throughout the seven episodes.

While guests hoping to recreate their own 'White Lotus' getaway may not encounter the same steamy encounters, Maraviglia assures that his hotel offers the same exceptional service enjoyed by the characters on the show.

'The series thrives on the authenticity of luxury hotel life; the real interactions between staff and guests, and among guests themselves, are what make it resonate,' he explains.

However, he notes that while the 'extreme situations,' like the arrival of two local escorts entertaining guests, provide dramatic flair, in reality, things are much more tranquil – at least from his perspective.

'We might notice unusual activity if something becomes obvious, but generally, Taormina and our resort are destinations for families and honeymooners. Any fleeting adventures are not something we typically observe,' he adds.

Guests at the San Domenico Palace will find it exactly as shown in 'The White Lotus.' The suite connecting doors are real, as are the lush gardens perfect for sunset cocktails, charming cloisters, a panoramic pool, and a terrace with sweeping bay views where breakfast is served. The Michelin-starred restaurant is where many of the heated exchanges in the show take place.

Sicily, however, is no stranger to such charged atmospheres. The island’s rich Greek heritage, steeped in a history of sexual liberation, is reflected in the series, where pagan sculptures and religious frescoes quietly bear witness to the extravagant lives of the affluent guests.

Saints and courtesans

Taormina dazzles in all its splendor: the grand ancient Greek theater, the picturesque piazzetta, pastel-hued buildings, stylish alleyways filled with cafes and designer boutiques, and upscale restaurants like Baronessa, where one of the show’s tense dinner scenes unfolds.

The finest suites at the hotel, where many of the show's intimate moments take place, feature plunge pools and artworks of saints created by the monks who once inhabited the monastery.

'The décor, the rooms, everything is authentic, what you see is what’s real, even the staff uniforms,' Maraviglia shares.

Although Maraviglia may not have encountered the more outlandish guest requests featured in 'White Lotus,' he mentions that since the San Domenico joined the Four Seasons last year, he’s handled his fair share of extravagant demands.

'Some guests have asked to be flown by private helicopter to the Aeolian Islands, or to charter a yacht for a trip to Syracuse, just an hour’s drive away,' he adds.

There are only two notable departures from reality in the show – the beach scenes and shots of guests arriving by boat. The San Domenico Palace, located 400 meters above Taormina on a rocky plateau, has no direct access to the sea. To capture the arrival scenes, the private deck of the nearby La Cambusa restaurant at Giardini Naxos was used.

Since the hotel lacks its own private beach, guests can visit the nearby Unahotels Capotaormina resort, where they can relax on sun loungers and umbrellas at a beach club nestled into a reddish cliff, framed by natural rock arches and sea stacks, with views of the tiny Isolabella island.

The island, featured in 'The White Lotus,' is linked to the mainland by a narrow sandbar and is one of Sicily’s premier snorkeling spots, thanks to its crystal-clear emerald waters. Part of an archaeological park, the island is home to a villa surrounded by lush, exotic plants that hosts a botanical museum.

Most of the beach and underwater scenes were filmed at the public beach in the charming fishing village of Cefalù, situated between Taormina and Palermo.

Taormina’s bay was the setting for a real-life mystery in 1955, when a Polish heiress was allegedly drowned by her husband in an incident that was thought to be connected to a family inheritance dispute.

The on-screen arguments between couples in 'The White Lotus' mirror real-life tensions. In 1967, Elizabeth Taylor allegedly smashed a mandolin over Richard Burton’s head during a heated argument on their suite's terrace.

Flower pots and phallic symbols

'The White Lotus' weaves in a rich tapestry of Sicilian folklore, along with subtle references to the island’s notorious mafia ties.

A ceramic sculpture of a bearded Moor’s head frequently appears in the show, symbolizing betrayal. The image is inspired by a local legend from the Middle Ages, in which an Arabic ruler's head was severed and repurposed as a flower pot by a woman he had an affair with.

'This story encapsulates the heart of Sicilian love, passion, and revenge, all of which are central themes in 'The White Lotus,'' says Sonia Bonamassa, San Domenico’s PR coordinator. 'She decapitates the Moor out of love, but he has betrayed her.'

Today, these 'testa di moro' ceramic heads are commonly used by Sicilians as vases, lamp stands, citrus bowls, or decorative pieces for their homes.

The mori heads are a nod to Sicily’s Arab influence, with other local keepsakes such as the colorful 'pigne' pine-cone shaped ceramics, believed to bring good fortune, also popular with locals.

'Director Mike White was very open to incorporating local customs,' says Maraviglia. 'We would joke about these things, and he embraced many of our suggestions in the show, including Italian songs, making his approach feel more authentic to our reality.'

One suggestion that didn’t make the cut—likely too extreme even for this erotically charged show—was a local bar that the cast humorously dubbed 'the penis bar.'

Bar Turrisi, located in the charming medieval village of Castelmola near Taormina, is adorned with objects in the shape of phalluses. 'Bottles, watches, cups, you name it,' says Maraviglia. Even the staircases and floor tiles feature these symbols.

Waitress Giorgia Ponturo mentions that the real hotel staff and crew would frequently visit after long days of shooting and hopes the show will encourage tourists to explore quieter, lesser-known spots like Castelmola near Taormina.

'This bar has been around since 1947. It was once a brothel and a popular gay hangout,' says Ponturo. 'The owner later embraced the phallic motif, a symbol from ancient Greek culture representing sexual potency and fertility, to honor the virility of Sicilian men. It’s also said to bring good luck.'

Epic parties and opulent estates

Some scenes were shot at Villa Tasca, a Renaissance palace located in Monreale, near Palermo. Set in a lush park, the villa boasts magnificent frescoes, statues, king-sized rooms, and a tranquil pool-fed by fresh spring water. Available for private events and weddings, the villa is also said to have hosted German composer Richard Wagner during the creation of one of his iconic works.

Another lavish property featured in 'The White Lotus' during an orgy scene is Villa Elena, nestled in olive groves near Noto. With its antique tapestries, marble accents, and a sprawling pool that extends from a temple, the villa is a stunning example of Sicilian grandeur.

'The White Lotus' pays tribute to 'The Godfather' mafia films, showcasing Castello degli Schiavi in Fiumefreddo, an elegant castle with a cloister. The castle is a private estate that offers guided tours and event bookings.

The series also highlights the finest of Sicilian cuisine. Characters indulge in ricotta-filled cannoli, sweet cassata cakes, creamy gelato, and savory arancini rice balls. They sip on local rosé and Martini, while two couples enjoy a wine-tasting excursion at the Planeta winery on the slopes of Mount Etna, where the rich volcanic soil produces exceptional wines like Eruzione ('eruption').

Taormina has been an elite destination since the 1800s, famous for its extravagant parties and its legacy of sexual freedom, a nod to the island’s pagan Greek past when homosexuality was widely accepted. Oscar Wilde, the Anglo-Irish playwright, was one of its regular visitors.

Legend has it that Taormina may have inspired D.H. Lawrence’s novel 'Lady Chatterley’s Lover.' The author and his wife stayed at the San Domenico Palace in the early 1920s, and it’s said that the book was influenced by an affair between Mrs. Lawrence and a local donkey rider.

Worldwide attention

Locals hope that the global exposure of Taormina in 'The White Lotus' will attract even more tourists to Sicily and solidify its status as a sought-after location for Hollywood productions.

Giacomo Chillé, from Discover Messina travel agency, plans to offer guided tours to the show's filming spots. 'There’s huge potential in film tourism,' he said. 'We already take American tourists to 'The Godfather' locations on bespoke tours.'

Not everyone shares the excitement. Enzo Anastasi, owner of La Canna Hotel on the remote Filicudi island in the Aeolian archipelago, fears that Sicily is being turned into a 'rich man’s Disneyland.'

'These American series always promote the same ultra-wealthy characters and their glamorous spots, which don't represent the true, authentic heart of Sicily, where traditions and simple lifestyles continue to thrive,' he said.

Giuseppe Quattrocchi, a local Taormina restaurateur and owner of Le Bistrot du Monde, believes the series will be a boon for tourism in the area, but he’s not entirely happy with how Sicily was sometimes depicted.

'When three guests search for their ancestors in a remote village and are booted out by their supposed relatives, it’s a far cry from our welcoming, family-oriented hospitality,' he says. 'Also, the portrayal of escorts and references to local crime organizations create a negative stereotype.'