The best ways to navigate Edinburgh

The first thing that captures your attention are the hills of Edinburgh. With seven of them, from the popular Arthur’s Seat and Calton Hill to the lesser-known Braid and Blackford, they seem to have erupted from the earth in a dramatic contest for prominence. 

This means you’ll definitely need a comfortable pair of shoes, as the Old and New Towns rise and fall like waves, adorned with church spires, castle towers, and cobblestone pathways.

While walking is the primary way to explore this compact city, it’s far from the only option. Few experiences rival sitting atop a maroon-striped double-decker bus, enjoying a front-row view of Princes Street Gardens below and Edinburgh Castle looming above. The expanding tram network and cycle paths are also aiding Edinburgh in alleviating traffic congestion and achieving its ambitious sustainability goals—particularly in reclaiming the medieval center for pedestrians.

Here are our top recommendations for getting around Edinburgh.

Walking is the ideal way to experience the city

This compact, easily navigable city is a treasure for those who love to explore on foot. In Edinburgh, moving from one place to another feels effortless, especially on clear days, which enhances how locals engage with their surroundings. They pop into shops, grab coffee from takeaway windows, and strike up conversations in bookstores—moments that wouldn’t occur if they were underground on a metro train. 

As a general guideline, you can traverse the Old Town in about 30 minutes, or stroll from Stockbridge to Morningside—the two most charming suburbs—in an hour. The exceptions are Leith and Portobello, both of which lead to the Firth of Forth and are better accessed by double-decker bus.

For a comprehensive experience, hop on a bus

In addition to free entry at the National Museum of Scotland and the city’s four impressive art galleries, the best bargain in Edinburgh is a bus ticket. A day saver covering its 50 routes that crisscross the city is an absolute steal at £5 for adults and £2.50 for children, or £10.50 for a family (including up to three kids). A brilliant feature is that many of these buses are now all-electric, offering plenty to admire between stops.

Top bus routes in Edinburgh for visitors

Bus number 37 connects Princes St, Bruntsfield, and Morningside to the outskirts of Pentland Hills Regional Park and Rosslyn Chapel, often hailed as one of the most beautiful, albeit mysterious, religious sites in the world. The 49 winds around Arthur’s Seat, rewarding passengers in the upper seats with stunning views from 340 million years ago, along with a stop at Craigmillar Castle and Portobello Beach. Another excellent route is the 27, which takes you from the Meadows and the University of Edinburgh to the entrance of the Royal Botanic Gardens.

Experience a different perspective of the city by taking the tram

Balgreen. Murrayfield. Newhaven. While tourists have explored Edinburgh for centuries, many remain unaware of its hidden suburban gems. A common approach is to ride the tram from the international airport to Princes St or St Andrew Sq, then forget about this vital route through the city center.

However, there’s much joy to be found in exploring the suburbs, escaping the noise of buses and cars on trams that arrive every seven minutes. In Balgreen, for example, Saughton Park Gardens serves as a delightful urban oasis, with Four Square Park Café acting as a community living room. 

Further down the line, Murrayfield is known for Scottish Rugby, but it also boasts independent shops in Roseburn and lesser-known bike paths along the Water of Leith leading to Blackhall. At the tram’s northern terminus, Newhaven welcomes you to Edinburgh’s iconic lighthouse and the charming boats and seafood restaurants of Newhaven Harbour.

Discover hidden gems on a bike

A word of caution: Edinburgh still lags behind Dutch and Danish cities in terms of cycle-friendliness and dedicated bike lanes. It’s a work in progress. However, the city is moving toward a more sustainable future, with the council allocating funds to enhance cycling infrastructure. The challenge lies in maintaining the city’s momentum.

Take a ride along the Innocent Railway Path from the Royal Commonwealth Pool to Brunstane, nestled beneath the hills and lochs of Holyrood Park. Alternatively, cycle the Union Canal towpath from Ratho to Tollcross, and you’ll wish for more time. Other bike paths worth exploring include the Roseburn and Blackhall Pathways, which nearly reach the shores of Cramond and Silverknowes. For a more adventurous ride, the rugged gravel and mountain bike trails in Pentland Hills Regional Park offer an instant escape to the beauty of the Highlands. 

Like other parts of Scotland, the optimal months for dry weather and minimal rainfall, perfect for cycling, are April, May, and September. 

Parking is not readily available in Edinburgh

The streets are built upon a medieval layout of cobbles, wynds, and bridges designed for carts and carriages, not for modern tires and the influx of tourists.

This means the city struggles to handle excessive traffic, with stringent parking rules and restrictions enforced seven days a week. While parking is feasible, it tends to be expensive and often requires careful planning. 

Utilize ride-hailing apps and on-demand taxis for trips home after a night out

As the day progresses, it can be said that Edinburgh truly shines. Renowned restaurants, lively pubs, and vibrant festivals energize the Old and New Towns. If a late-night bus isn't sufficient, an Edinburgh cab can take you back to your toothbrush. While traditional black cab companies like City Cabs and Central Taxis used to line the streets, they are now easily ordered through their apps. Uber offers a more economical option, though it can be less dependable, with a 'ride confirmed' notification feeling like a win during the bustling Edinburgh Festival Fringe or Hogmanay.